UKC

/ Beeston Tor Clean Up

Gary Gibson - on 08 Jan 2018
Beeston Tor (Manifold Valley) Yesterday I finished my cleaning and re-gearing work at Beeston Tor as agreed between the National Trust, Natural England and the BMC and the Peak area meeting in June 2017 prior to the publication of the new guide in 2018. This was to clear away some of the vegetation and ivy as well as re-assessing and replacing in-situ threads, belays and bolt runners after assessment as necessary. Below is a list of the itemised work.
The Thorn: gear and pegs re-checked.
Beeston Eliminate: large Thorn bush removed from the last pitch and last pitch cleaned. Route now climbable again.
666: completely rebolted and new belay added.
Central Wall: Lower half cleaned of vegetation to put this route back to somewhere near its best. There is now a link to the upper half of this from the Pocket Symphony belay but obviously not as good as the original.
Midnight Mass: threads replaced and lower half cleaned.
Catharsis:Lower section cleaned and thread replaced.
Black Grub: Lower half cleaned of veg and threads re-assessed and replaced as necessary.
Cleo’s Mood: Lower half cleaned of veg and threads replaced.
The Fly: route completely re-cleaned.
Solution Pollution: large section of ivy stripped back, threads replaced and bolt belay placed. This is well worth doing and almost as good a Majolica.
Majolica: large section of ivy stripped back, threads replaced, unsightly thread belay removed and replaced by bolt belay. Never a 6b sports route as suggested in Rockfax, closer to 6c?
Faience: threads replaced as required and unsightly thread belay removed and replaced by bolt belay.
Go Budgie Go: thread replaced. Probably the best of the bunch but not in Rockfax for some reason.
Honorary Buoux: completely rebolted with stainless steel glu-ins from top to bottom. New bolt belay added and large elderberry tree in Bertram’s Chimney cut back- you can now climb this route as well if you wish!

All bolts used are 316 stainless steel glue-ins or through bolts with hangers and all have been self funded.

If you would like to contribute to my bolt fund there is a donate button on my web site http://sportsclimbs.co.uk

With thanks for support for gear to Jim Titt.
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Thanks a lot Gary. Beeston is a great crag and some of those threads certainly needed replacing - I'm looking forward to visiting this year. I've donated some money.
Anotherclimber - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Fantastic effort. Very much appreciated. Thank you.
Gary Gibson - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Theo Moore - UKC and UKH: thanks Theo. Just keep an eye on the BMC RAD. There was al peregrine there last year and the crag had a restriction on it. I think it may have been the lack of use?

rocksol - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Fantastic effort Gary. Got to be better than Awesome, especially on a still sunny winter day. Once climbed there on New Year's Day in a T shirt.
Christheclimber on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Excellent work (again) Gary, thank you for cleaning up this great crag.
roger whetton on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Excellent work Gary. Wondering if Patience, West Wall Climb and Ivy Gash are currently climable?
blurty - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Thanks for your hard work Gary, £10 on its way towards the bolt fund
Jon Stewart - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Fantastic! Some of the best limestone in the peak, and much more enjoyable when the gear's in decent nick and the veg is kept at bay.
Gary Gibson - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to blurty: thanks mate.

Gary Gibson - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to roger whetton: they are bit vegetated but you can still climb them. It wasn’t part of the agreement to clean them but if my efforts work I will sort them next winter?

Doghouse - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Thanks Gary, great effort, just donated to your bolt fund.
Gary Gibson - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Doghouse: thanks, really appreciated.

Dave Cundy - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Good effort Gary. i once did The Thorn as my first route of the year, two years running. Its good to hear people looking after our crags, so i've also put a few quid in your bolt fund.
Mick B - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Good effort Gary. Donation also sent.
Gary Gibson - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Dave Cundy: thanks for the contribution Dave.

Gary Gibson - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Mick B: Thanks for your contribution Mick.
BoulderyDave - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson: Thanks Gary, looking forward to going back to Beeston. Donation made... your efforts are always appreciated
Martin Hore - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Thank you Gary

Not sure I'll be clipping too many of your bolts but I do get to Beeston once every year or so for the classic trad ticks. Small donation on its way later today in gratitude for your work here and in so many other places over the years.

Martin

Gary Gibson - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to Gary Gibson: thanks to everyone who has contributed to my bolt fund. More to do yet. I will keep you posted..