Most folks are aware of the long history of disputed access, ownership and climber behaviour that caused this crag to be banned for climbing for over 30 years.
There are now new occupiers/owners for both the central (Great Wall section) and the right hand side ((Purple Haze to Topcat).
Access to the left hand side of the crag (between and including the routes "Cling" to "Moonwalk") is fine and we have an agreement with the landowner and Natural Resources Wales but the only access is via the agreed parking and approach route from the top as mentioned in both the North /Wales Limestone Guidebook, BMC RAD
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=798
and also Craig y Forwyn Craig y Forwynin the UKC crag notes. Please, please make sure you close the gate into the field behind you when you park, this was left open by climbers last year and we almost lost access from a very supportive land owner as all his sheep got out and were scattered all over the village and neighbouring roads.
There is also an agreement with the tenant farmer to climb on the right hand side - Purple Haze to Topcat. Access to this area is as described for the left hand side.
The Central Section ("Human Menagerie" to "Purple Haze" - i.e. the bit between the fences - it's quite obvious!). This does contain some of the best climbing here including Mojo, Great Wall, Fido's Redemption, etc. but the new owners have placed large new signs on the crag stating no climbing. BMC are currently in very advanced and quite sensitive stage of negotiation with the land owners to secure long term access to this crag. Can I please ask climbers to avoid this section completely until these negotiations have been concluded. Any bad behaviour, incidents or infringements now will lead to the current owners withdrawing from any negotiations and any hope of an agreement here will be lost forever.
Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)