/ Craig y Forwyn -Do not climb on central section!

Most folks are aware of the long history of disputed access, ownership and climber behaviour that caused this crag to be banned for climbing for over 30 years.   

There are now new occupiers/owners for both the central (Great Wall section) and the right hand side ((Purple Haze to Topcat).  

Access to the left hand side of the crag (between and including the routes "Cling" to "Moonwalk") is fine and we have an agreement with the landowner and Natural Resources Wales but the only access is via the agreed parking and approach route from the top as mentioned in both the North /Wales Limestone Guidebook, BMC RAD

and also Craig y Forwyn Craig y Forwynin the UKC crag notes.  Please, please make sure you close the gate into the field behind you when you park, this was left open by climbers last year and we almost lost access from a very supportive land owner as all his sheep got out and were scattered all over the village and neighbouring roads.

There is also an agreement with the tenant farmer to climb on the right hand side - Purple Haze to Topcat. Access to this area is as described for the left hand side. 

The Central Section ("Human Menagerie" to "Purple Haze" - i.e. the bit between the fences - it's quite obvious!). This does contain some of the best climbing here including Mojo, Great Wall,  Fido's Redemption, etc. but the new owners have placed large new signs on the crag stating no climbing.  BMC are currently in very advanced  and quite sensitive stage of negotiation with the land owners to secure long term access to this crag.  Can I please ask climbers to avoid this section completely until these negotiations have been concluded.  Any bad behaviour, incidents or infringements now will lead to the current owners withdrawing from any negotiations and any hope of an agreement here will be lost forever.  

Elfyn Jones

BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)


baron - on 21 Feb 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones BMC Cymru/Wales:

Thanks for all your efforts to secure access to this fine crag.

It's hard to imagine that it's around 30 years since poor behaviour by climbers led to the current ban.

Judging by some of the ongoing issues at other crags it might be wise not to promise too much on behalf of the climbing community in order to restore access.

Nonetheless I wish you luck in your negotiations.

spidermonkey09 - on 21 Feb 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones BMC Cymru/Wales:

Thanks Elfyn.

Fingers crossed; would be fantastic to open this crag up again.

Ron Rees Davies - on 21 Feb 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones BMC Cymru/Wales:

We need to be careful with parking at the moment too. The field is pretty wet and several cars this week have had to resort to putting twigs or stones under their wheels to get enough traction to move. 

We've been leaving heaviest car (sensibly) at the 'triangle' then reversing in through the gate to reduce the need for any turning in the muddy field. If it gets any wetter it may be best just to walk down from the village.