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New climbing ban at Avon Gorge due to nesting peregrines.

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 John Alcock 23 Mar 2022

Posted by the BMC today on Bristol Climbers FB Forum:

Peregrines nesting on Exploding Galaxy Wall

Seasonal restriction now in place 22nd March - 15th July

Seasonal restrictions on climbing - all routes on:

- Exploding Galaxy Wall

- Upper Wall

- Unknown Buttress

The definitive information is on the BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=1063.

Notices will be placed at the top and the bottom of these areas.

The nesting situation will be kept under review. Updates will be posted on the RAD.

*********

Personally I will of course obey the ban and I hope the birds breed successfully, but I think it's far too broad. I know where the new nest is and I cannot see how climbers on many of the routes on Upper Wall would disturb the birds. I understand the desire to be cautious with a new nest site, but this ban includes many climbs a long way from the nest and out of sight of the birds. I hope that the BMV will seek to renegotiate its scope in future.  

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 tehmarks 23 Mar 2022
In reply to John Alcock:

It seems like a minute sacrifice for a tiny subset of humans to make for the privilege of coexisting in harmony with our avian neighbours?

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In reply to John Alcock:

Does seem like a huge area restricted. Where's the nest?

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 Michael Hood 23 Mar 2022
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

There's huge variation in how tolerant nesting Peregrines are to human proximity; e.g. in Malham they tend to be tolerant (probably because there's load of people there a lot of the time) so only a small area is restricted.

It shouldn't be difficult to see where the nest is from a bit of observation - but it's not usually considered wise to publicise the exact location.

 The Pylon King 23 Mar 2022
In reply to tehmarks:

> It seems like a minute sacrifice for a tiny subset of humans to make for the privilege of coexisting in harmony with our avian neighbours?

Agree.

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 ericinbristol 23 Mar 2022
In reply to John Alcock:

Hi John: long time no see, I hope all's well.

The issue is not just where the nest is: it is also other places that the birds use. Considering the sensitivities and risks I am not going to post on a public forum the information I have on this that I can guarantee justifies the breadth of the ban. I'll message you via UKC to explain.

Post edited at 16:05
 profitofdoom 23 Mar 2022
In reply to tehmarks:

> It seems like a minute sacrifice for a tiny subset of humans to make for the privilege of coexisting in harmony with our avian neighbours?

NOTE TO ALL OUR AVIAN NEIGHBOURS: Please stay well away from our house and in the airspace up to 1500 feet above it during our nesting season (January 1 to December 31). Thank you for your attention. 

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Message Removed 23 Mar 2022
Reason: Contained information about nest location

In reply to John Alcock:

FFS, John, climb somewhere else for a few months . Maybe we could get away with not disturbing them, but why take the risk?

jcm

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OP John Alcock 25 Mar 2022
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I am delighted to see that the number of banned routes has now been modified by the BMC to what I personally feel is a more reasonable level which strikes a careful balance between protecting the birds and allowing access to more climbs.

According to the RAD, the new restrictions are:

Restrictions apply from 22 March - 15 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting on Exploding Galaxy Wall.

This seasonal climbing restriction applies to all routes on Exploding Galaxy Wall, all routes on Unknown Buttress from Unknown Gully to Electra Glide, and the upper routes on Upper Wall down to Mirage. Routes from Arms Race to The Prince may not be approached by abseil.

The restrictions will remain under active review.

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