Just popped to Plump Hill Quarry and there's a new forestry England sign up that says no climbing.
Checked the RAD before setting off but it's out of date unfortunately.
Every sandstone crag in South Wales has these signs they’re just for liability reasons and aren’t mentioned on BMC or UKC logbooks as they’ve never been enforced. Perhaps similar is the case there.
The crag is in an SSSI, they have also put in a fence at the top of the walk up/down.
So unfortunately think they are pretty serious about not wanting us there.
A few years ago, the stakes were all removed. There was a forestry commission report (i think) saying that the main slab climbing doesn't effect the SSSI, but can I find it again now.
This report states "Management is mainly concerned with keeping exposures clear of vegetation, reducing illegal access by climbers and 4x4 users"
Edgehills Quarry is a geological SSSI but that doesnt mean climbing is usually banned.
Yeah, someone needs to persuade them that climbers are excellent at "keeping exposures clear of vegetation" and we don't even charge for it.
I've let the BMC acess rep for this crag know, as well as the UKC crag moderator. Hopefully there will be a conversation between the BMC and forestry england and maybe we will get acess back one day
The wording on each sign is as follows:-
ROCK CLIMBING IS NOT PERMITTED IN THIS AREA
It can cause severe damage to the rock face and destruct important habitants here.
Edgehills Quarry is a ‘Site of Special Scientific Interest’ and we ask all visitors to enjoy the area in a responsible way. Access the area by walking only and please take your litter home.
Help us to protect this area and please report any signs of misuse to Forestry England.
> It can cause severe damage to the rock face and destruct important habitants here.
Having sampled the climbing at Plump Hill, presumably they have also banned gravity in this area, as it also seems to damage the 'rock face'.
Don't know why you got a "dislike" for that comment - seems rather apt to me.
For the benefit of those who haven't climbed there, the 1997 guide commented;
"The exfoliating slabs may appeal to climbers of an esoteric bent."
As someone who did every route in one evening (led or soloed), I fully concur with the guide book's comment.
the 1997 guide commented;
> "The exfoliating slabs may appeal to climbers of an esoteric bent."
I drew the topo and recorded half a dozen routes for that guide. We dug out most of the holds with our bare fingers; brushing and nut-tool not required.
Surprised to hear that climbing is banned there, because there isnt any.
> they have also put in a fence at the top of the walk up/down.
I popped by there today, and the fence isn't new, assuming you mean the one at the back of the area at the top? I normally use the muddy scramble up/down, rather than going over the back anyway.
The new stakes are also gone (holes still visible).
I thought I saw a new fence perpendicular to the fence at the back, which blocked easy access to the muddy scramble on the left (as you face the crag). I was only looking from afar as I didn't go climbing so I could have been mistaken.
Either way it seems clear that with the 2 signs and removal of the stakes we are unfortunately no longer welcome there.