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Restrictions at Craig Cnwch, Elan Valley?

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 defaid 31 Aug 2017
Hi.

My first topic...

I've been looking into climbing at the Elan Valley in Mid-Wales, it not being far from home, and was rather taken by the bolts & lower-offs on Craig Cnwch so, having drawn a blank at the Welsh Water visitor centre, thought I'd enquire at the local outdoor centre. The centre owner replied suggesting I contact the probable developer, in a village a few minutes from my home. This morning I had a second reply from the centre stating the following:

"Further to this it’s probably important that you know that the crag is within a SSI and European Conservation area, there is no public access granted for climbing, In addition the rock is very loose so it’s not a brilliant crag anyway."

The walls I looked at seemed pretty sound, especially the bouldery end and Abseil Wall, so given the lack of knowledge among the WW wardens and the effective disclaimer from the outdoor centre, can anyone confirm whether or not climbing is permitted at Craig Cnwch in the Elan Valley?

Thanks a lot.
D
 toad 31 Aug 2017
In reply to defaid:

Did you reply that most of our NPs have similar designations and are climbed extensively. More importantly, is tbe crag mapped as open access?
 Tony Jones 31 Aug 2017
In reply to defaid:

There is a new Central Wales guide book to be released soon. I would guess that this area will be within its remit.

My partner lives in Ceredigion and I look forward to exploring the climbing to be found in 'Hinterland'.

Dave Williams posted about it here recently.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=667922

Ynys Lochtyn is a fabulous location by the way should you ever fancy a trip to the coast.
OP defaid 01 Sep 2017
In reply to defaid:

Ah... a guide to my home patch would be nice but while authors usually get along quite quickly, publishers and printers can take for ever.

In the meantime, as the OS mapping is a bit blurry, even at 1:25 000, I may have to try the BMC...

Thanks to you both for replying.
D
 Dave Williams 01 Sep 2017
In reply to defaid:
Thanks for your interest in Craig Cnwch. Hopefully I can fill in some of the 'blanks'.

As you've found out, the Elan Valley VC staff, especially at this time of year, probably don't know much, if anything at all, about the climbing at Craig Cnwch - or indeed anywhere else in the valley (as there's far more climbing in the Elan Valley than just at Craig Cnwch.) The staff may well be P/T or temporary in nature; employed to cover during the main visitor peak. The EV Ranger service staff are more knowledgeable. Dwr Cymru Welsh Water's area land manager is up to speed, as is the Head Ranger and the Elan Valley Trust. (Also in the loop is Dwr Cymru Welsh Water's Dam Inspector, who despite being a non-climber, has always taken a keen interest in climbing developments!)

Unfortunately, the response you've had from the owner of the outdoor centre is simply wrong on all counts.

[1] Craig Cnwch is not within an SSSI. This has long been confirmed by Natural Resources Wales.
[2] There is no such thing as an 'European Conservation Area'. The outdoor centre may be referring to the fact that local woodland areas have been designated Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) under the EC Habitats Directive. http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/ProtectedSites/SACselection/sac.asp?EUCode=UK00301... None of the Elan Valley's cliffs are in such woodland areas so this simply doesn't apply.
[3] There is total right of public access to Craig Cnwch as the whole crag is (just) on access land, a fact confirmed by both Dwr Cymru Welsh Water and the Elan Valley Trust in a meeting jointly held with BMC Cymru.
[4] While there is some loose rock, the vast majority of the climbs are on clean, solid rock. The rock is also generally sound on the cleaned sport routes but obviously a degree of caution is still advised.

So in summary, climbing *is* allowed on Craig Cnwch - as well as on all other cliffs in the Valley. The only restriction applies to Creigiau Dolfolau as it is a very long-established and regionally important peregrine and merlin nesting site, one where nesting and breeding activity is regularly and actively monitored. Consequently, following discussions between Dwr Cymru Welsh Water, the British Mountaineering Council, Natural Resources Wales and local partners, the cliff is subject to an extended voluntary access restriction from the 1st February – July 31st inclusive.

The crag - and indeed the whole area - will be definitively covered in the upcoming Central Wales guide, still on track ATM to be published before the end of this year.

Hope this clarifies matters.

Dave
[BMC Local Access Rep/ Central Wales Guidebook co-author/ Local activist - for my sins ....]

PS: If you want any more info, or even someone semi-local to climb with, please get in touch via PM. I live some 15 miles north of Rhaeadr Gwy.
Post edited at 18:51
OP defaid 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Dave Williams:

Thanks very much Dave. You're a star!

I've a suspicion I live on the nearest stretch of the Severn to your home but I imagine our standards of climbing are leagues apart. Whatever, if you fancy some very very easy trad or watching me fall off everything else, or just someone to hold a rope, I'm always up for it.

Thanks again.
Another Dave.
 Dave Williams 01 Sep 2017
In reply to defaid:

Thanks Dave. Email sent via UKC.
 Tony Jones 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Dave Williams:

Dave, I spend the more than the occasional weekend mooching around the badlands around Tregaron and I have to say I am very much looking forward to the release of the new Central Wales Guide.

A big thanks for taking the trouble to compile it.

The other Dave, I would be very happy to meet up a for a few hours climbing when I'm down your way at some point.

Cheers both.
 Offwidth 02 Sep 2017
In reply to Dave Williams:

You forgot to mention you are a regular UKC contributer in the subject of providing information for the area (I'm another person who thinks you are a proper star for all your efforts

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