In reply to defaid:
Thanks for your interest in Craig Cnwch. Hopefully I can fill in some of the 'blanks'.
As you've found out, the Elan Valley VC staff, especially at this time of year, probably don't know much, if anything at all, about the climbing at Craig Cnwch - or indeed anywhere else in the valley (as there's far more climbing in the Elan Valley than just at Craig Cnwch.) The staff may well be P/T or temporary in nature; employed to cover during the main visitor peak. The EV Ranger service staff are more knowledgeable. Dwr Cymru Welsh Water's area land manager is up to speed, as is the Head Ranger and the Elan Valley Trust. (Also in the loop is Dwr Cymru Welsh Water's Dam Inspector, who despite being a non-climber, has always taken a keen interest in climbing developments!)
Unfortunately, the response you've had from the owner of the outdoor centre is simply wrong on all counts.
[1] Craig Cnwch is not within an SSSI. This has long been confirmed by Natural Resources Wales.
[2] There is no such thing as an 'European Conservation Area'. The outdoor centre may be referring to the fact that local woodland areas have been designated Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) under the EC Habitats Directive.
http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/ProtectedSites/SACselection/sac.asp?EUCode=UK00301... None of the Elan Valley's cliffs are in such woodland areas so this simply doesn't apply.
[3] There is total right of public access to Craig Cnwch as the whole crag is (just) on access land, a fact confirmed by both Dwr Cymru Welsh Water and the Elan Valley Trust in a meeting jointly held with BMC Cymru.
[4] While there is some loose rock, the vast majority of the climbs are on clean, solid rock. The rock is also generally sound on the cleaned sport routes but obviously a degree of caution is still advised.
So in summary, climbing *is* allowed on Craig Cnwch - as well as on all other cliffs in the Valley. The only restriction applies to Creigiau Dolfolau as it is a very long-established and regionally important peregrine and merlin nesting site, one where nesting and breeding activity is regularly and actively monitored. Consequently, following discussions between Dwr Cymru Welsh Water, the British Mountaineering Council, Natural Resources Wales and local partners, the cliff is subject to an extended voluntary access restriction from the 1st February – July 31st inclusive.
The crag - and indeed the whole area - will be definitively covered in the upcoming Central Wales guide, still on track ATM to be published before the end of this year.
Hope this clarifies matters.
Dave
[BMC Local Access Rep/ Central Wales Guidebook co-author/ Local activist - for my sins ....]
PS: If you want any more info, or even someone semi-local to climb with, please get in touch via PM. I live some 15 miles north of Rhaeadr Gwy.
Post edited at 18:51