UKC

Seasonal climbing restrictions-please stick to them!

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 Elfyn Jones 03 May 2017
We are now fully in the bird nesting season and many crags have agreed climbing restrictions. Most are pretty easy to follow -guidebooks, on site signs, bmc regional access database and even local leaflets in places such as Pembroke.
It's therefore really disappointing that land managers are reporting climbers appearing to be deliberately flouting well marked restrictions.
At easter climbers were seen on the route Romany at Trevellen (clearly marked as restricted as the sign is on the abseil stake!)-, who also ran away when approached by the Rangetr. It looks as if the Chough nesting there have now failed due to this disturbance. A couple of days ago two climbers were seen within 10m of the peregrine nest at Craig Arthur on Clwyd Limestone -again clearly marked in both the guidebook and by on site signs. Here was also a possible breach at Mousetrap zawn before easter. ......
These are all protected sites where land owners are very supportive of climbing and where we have great support but where very draconian restrictions could be imposed if as a climbers we do not abide by these agreed restrictions.
Please check the BMC RAD before climbing!
Sorry can't post the link as doing this on my phone from northern Spain!
Thanks
Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation officer (Wales)
 galpinos 03 May 2017
In reply to Elfyn Jones:

Elfyn, is there any effort being made in sorting the RAD app out? I've got it on my phone but having checked it for Ravensdale, it gives conflicting advice to the website.

The app says,

> The previous restriction imposed by Natural England on the crag has now been lifted as the ravens have fledged

but the website says,

> Peregrines and raven are nesting on the crag in 2017, meaning the extent of the restriction is wider this year (but luckily only extends into a rarely visited buttress) and slighly complicated by the different nesting period of each bird. The raven restriction applies from Cracked Edge to Solitaire inclusive and runs from 15th March until 31st May. The peregrine restriction applies from Solitaire rightwards and runs from 28th April until 30th June. Natural England staff will monitor the nests and the restriction will be lifted if the birds fledge early or the eggs fail.

> Please approach the crag using the lower (left hand) branch of the approach path during nesting season and make sure you move quickly along it rather than stopping to watch the birds. This left hand branch can be hard to spot as it doesn't get as much use, but it branches off the main path approx 30-40m from the toe of Raven Buttress and stays in the trees.

> Avoid staying at the top of the crag once you have topped out and instead descend to the base as quickly as possible. The only walking descent that should be used during the restriction is the gully on the left side of the crag but for several routes it is possible to abseil directly back to the bottom which is the quickest and best option.

Which one is right? Assuming it's the website, f I'd only checked the app, which I might do if driving round a drizzly Peak District trying to find some dry rock, I might have ended up climbing in a restricted area.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=558
 galpinos 03 May 2017
In reply to galpinos:

Having now re-read the above with the guidebook in front of me it implies all of Raven Buttress is currently banned as:

> The peregrine restriction applies from Solitaire rightwards and runs from 28th April until 30th June.

Have I read it correctly?
In reply to galpinos:

Elfyn may not be able to respond promptly as he's away on holiday, so I will.

You are correct, technically you may be able to climb Myopia just left of Solitaire but still on Raven Buttress but it's probably not worth it.

There is a problem with the App version of the RAD, it seems to be pulling info from the old database rather than the current one which the website pulls from. Please use the website RAD in the meantime until we get it sorted, and apologies if this has resulted in any wasted journeys for those who've used the App version only to find the info is incorrect.
 galpinos 03 May 2017
In reply to Dan Middleton, BMC:

No problem Dan and thanks for responding. I was keen for the long roues on Raven's Buttress so shall have to find another venue for tomorrow evening's outing.
 Rob Dyer, BMC 03 May 2017
In reply to galpinos:

Just to confirm what Dan is saying above - we are having problems with the RAD app at the moment and our IT bods are trying to work out how and why it's pulling old information rather than just replicating the current info on the web version. I realise this is far from ideal and it's something we're working on as quick as we can, but for the meantime please don't use the app version of the RAD and instead refer to the web version which is correct and updated.

Apologies for the confusion and we'll get it sorted as soon as we can.

Cheers
Rob Dyer
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (England)

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