Does anyone know of the access situation at the quarry as don't want to upset the locals and the new owner.
Funny you mention this place as I didn't know of it until we went this week. On the access gate there is a big sign saying 'PRIVATE LAND KEEP OUT' which my mate said wasn't there a couple of years back. Down in the bottom of the quarry were 2 other parties getting on with it so he suggested that the sign could be to stop the public going in and having an accident as some of the tops are sheer drops without fencing.
We went in and as we were belaying at the top of a route a farmer in the next field didn't even look at us. The sign was a clear message but rightly or wrongly we read 'PRIVATE LAND KEEP OUT' as, 'this sign means you've been warned and so now you can't sue us if you get hurt'. The notes on the UKC page suggest that we can go on but that might have changed.
Yes it is private land, it's not designated CRoW or anything. Climbing was officially allowed until planning permission went in to develop the site, which was declined but the climbing ban wasn't. I don't think anyone's ever been turfed out by any owner though, but I may be wrong. Keep your head down and be discreet was the modus operandi. That said, parking is in a small hamlet so maybe best avoided for the time being.. unless you walk in up the hill?
The sign has been there for ages.
I know someone who was climbing there once and was approached by a village local at the top, whilst belaying. She boldly asked them to keep coming to help prevent the development of the land!
However, I've also been told the cattle are a breed that are not allowed on public footpaths so they are potentially dangerous. They've always seemed very docile to me, but leave a wide berth when the calves are around, I guess.
Best natural inland limestone around. Love it!
I was once meeting a friend but arrived before so walked in on my own. When he arrived he brought his dog down and the whole herd charged him and he had to retreat back to the car. Obviously I couldn't climb without him so headed back to the car too, at which point I was charged too. Large cows running really close either side of you at high speed is not very pleasant. Don't take your dog!
New 'Climbing is prohibited in this quarry' signs do seem to have been put up quite recently but not sure how seriously this is being enforced.
I work for the big company that now owns it and the higher ups have told me the no climbing signs are a liability thing and are not actively policing it
Climbing at Staden today and approached by new owner who was ok with us climbing in the quarry, he mentioned that they have no use for the rocks part and would be happy to pass it onto the BMC as they only want the field part.
Have emailed BMC contact details of persons above.
Interesting; what do they want the field for?
> Interesting; what do they want the field for?
Previous (unsuccessful) planning bids were for an industrial estate based around a water-bottling facility.
> Previous (unsuccessful) planning bids were for an industrial estate based around a water-bottling facility.
I think the ring leader behind this plan has passed away and the bottling plant is no more. I suspect the owner wanted the field for the grass for his cows.
I gather the bottling plant is being constructed at the bottom of cow dale, the company that now own it is a well known drinks firm and want the field as a catchment for the water so no cows or pesticides, think they intend to turn it into a wildflower meadow
> think they intend to turn it into a wildflower meadow
If they don't mind climbers going in and climbing and there is a wildflower meadow next to the cliffs it sounds pretty perfect!
In the mountains behind the sleepy coastal town of Powell River, British Colombia, a small group of climbers have spent decades quietly pioneering routes on some of the largest granite walls in Canada.