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Or the full title "The Boys of Everest: The Tragic Story of Climbing's Greatest Generation " recently published & written by Clint Willis and covering Chris Bonnington & friends
I saw this while back in the UK last week but only flicked through a few pages, has anyone read it ? is it worth buying ? I've never heard of the author but assume he's a journalist or similar rather than a mountaineer turned writer
I saw this while back in the UK last week but only flicked through a few pages, has anyone read it ? is it worth buying ? I've never heard of the author but assume he's a journalist or similar rather than a mountaineer turned writer
In reply to Doug:
Hi Doug,
I wrote the book. I'm a professional writer, also a weekend climber.
The book was a finalist for the Mountain Literature Award at Banff, where it lost to Jim Perrin's essays. Check out the website theboysofeverest.com for more reviews and so on.
Hope you like it.
Hi Doug,
I wrote the book. I'm a professional writer, also a weekend climber.
The book was a finalist for the Mountain Literature Award at Banff, where it lost to Jim Perrin's essays. Check out the website theboysofeverest.com for more reviews and so on.
Hope you like it.
In reply to Removed User:
Doesn't answer Doug's first couple of questions though.
Doug - haven't seen it, sorry. An interesting period to cover though.
Clint - did you have access to the individuals involved, or did you just read *their* books to write this one?
John
> (In reply to Removed UserDoug)
>
> Bet you weren't expecting that, eh Doug?
>
> Bet you weren't expecting that, eh Doug?
Doesn't answer Doug's first couple of questions though.
Doug - haven't seen it, sorry. An interesting period to cover though.
Clint - did you have access to the individuals involved, or did you just read *their* books to write this one?
John
In reply to Moacs:
Most of "Bonington's Boys" are dead. I believe the book covers thirteen of them: Boardman, Boysen, Burke, Clough, Estcourt, Harlin, Haston, MacInnes, Renshaw, Rouse, Scott, Tasker, and Whillans
Most of "Bonington's Boys" are dead. I believe the book covers thirteen of them: Boardman, Boysen, Burke, Clough, Estcourt, Harlin, Haston, MacInnes, Renshaw, Rouse, Scott, Tasker, and Whillans
In reply to Magenta:
You're right.
The question still stnads though, as a book written by someone who was in that crowd or who had interviewed Bonners, Curran (and any other survivors) would stand a better chance than a derivative work.
It provokes a bit of a pause when you list out the dead ones like that though...
J
You're right.
The question still stnads though, as a book written by someone who was in that crowd or who had interviewed Bonners, Curran (and any other survivors) would stand a better chance than a derivative work.
It provokes a bit of a pause when you list out the dead ones like that though...
J
In reply to Doug:
I have to say that looking at the website and im sold already.
cant wait to get my hands on it.
I think it covers an extraordinary time period.
I have to say that looking at the website and im sold already.
cant wait to get my hands on it.
I think it covers an extraordinary time period.
In reply to Moacs: erm, I think we can assume he read it if he wrote it!! Therefore it answers the first question. To answer the second would be self aggrandising no?
In reply to Moacs:
Yes, I wonder what the British mountaineering establishment think of an 'outsider' writing about it.
I've not seen the book yet but I believe Willis uses interviews with surviving climbers and others, plus diaries, letters, expedition accounts.
Yes, I wonder what the British mountaineering establishment think of an 'outsider' writing about it.
I've not seen the book yet but I believe Willis uses interviews with surviving climbers and others, plus diaries, letters, expedition accounts.
In reply to Magenta:
Only 4 of them still alive.
Harlin wasn't really involved on Everest though, was he?
> Most of "Bonington's Boys" are dead. I believe the book covers thirteen of them: Boardman, Boysen, Burke, Clough, Estcourt, Harlin, Haston, MacInnes, Renshaw, Rouse, Scott, Tasker, and Whillans
Only 4 of them still alive.
Harlin wasn't really involved on Everest though, was he?
In reply to Moacs:
How do you think Chris Bonnington must feel?
> (In reply to Magenta)
>
>
> It provokes a bit of a pause when you list out the dead ones like that though...
>
> J
>
> J
How do you think Chris Bonnington must feel?
In reply to DougG: Must admit I didn't expect a reply from the author & though the thread had died - & with no replies
Looking at his website I notice most of the reviews are American & the last part of the review in/by Kirkus ("This lacks some of the thrills and spills of Into Thin Air but is of the same class and caliber-and will make many readers wonder why anyone would ever dare climb into the clouds.") doesn't really make me want to rush out & buy the book as I find Krakauer's writing a bit sensationalist.
I'll read the free chapter sometime & then judge, if its any good maybe it'll sell & then come out in paperback
Looking at his website I notice most of the reviews are American & the last part of the review in/by Kirkus ("This lacks some of the thrills and spills of Into Thin Air but is of the same class and caliber-and will make many readers wonder why anyone would ever dare climb into the clouds.") doesn't really make me want to rush out & buy the book as I find Krakauer's writing a bit sensationalist.
I'll read the free chapter sometime & then judge, if its any good maybe it'll sell & then come out in paperback
In reply to Doug:
Its a decent read, the expeditions and time period it covers make great reading but I'm not overly keen on the style its been written in. Definately Worth buying but not one of desert island books.
Stuart
Its a decent read, the expeditions and time period it covers make great reading but I'm not overly keen on the style its been written in. Definately Worth buying but not one of desert island books.
Stuart
In reply to Magenta:
That's an interesting statement. Who is 'the British mountaineering Establishment?'
> (In reply to John Lisle)
>
> Yes, I wonder what the British mountaineering establishment think of an 'outsider' writing about it.
>
>
> Yes, I wonder what the British mountaineering establishment think of an 'outsider' writing about it.
>
That's an interesting statement. Who is 'the British mountaineering Establishment?'
In reply to Removed User:
DJ viper,BrianT & Norrie
Dont tell me you didnt know that!?!?
> (In reply to Removed UserMagenta)
> [...]
>
> That's an interesting statement. Who is 'the British mountaineering Establishment?'
> [...]
>
> That's an interesting statement. Who is 'the British mountaineering Establishment?'
DJ viper,BrianT & Norrie
Dont tell me you didnt know that!?!?
In reply to Removed User:
My perception would be mountaineers and historians like Bonington, Scott, Venables, Perrin, Unsworth, Curran, Wells, Gillman.
I await correction.
> (In reply to Removed UserMagenta)
> [...]
>
> That's an interesting statement. Who is 'the British mountaineering Establishment?'
> [...]
>
> That's an interesting statement. Who is 'the British mountaineering Establishment?'
My perception would be mountaineers and historians like Bonington, Scott, Venables, Perrin, Unsworth, Curran, Wells, Gillman.
I await correction.
In reply to Doug:
Actually, thinking about it, and given that Harlin is included, pity there was no room for Patey in that collection of climbers.
Actually, thinking about it, and given that Harlin is included, pity there was no room for Patey in that collection of climbers.
In reply to DougG:
Obviously you are talking about the book's subjects not mine and Magenta's list of 'the British Mountaineering Establishment'.
Obviously you are talking about the book's subjects not mine and Magenta's list of 'the British Mountaineering Establishment'.
In reply to Removed User:
I can see I'm going to regret using the word establishment.
I was thinking of people who climbed with the 13 and/or who have written about them or that period, and those were some names that came to mind.
It seems a little unusual for an American to be writing about British mountaineering history, hence I was wondering about the reaction. I’m looking forward to reading it, anyway.
> (In reply to Removed UserMagenta)
>
> So not Kirkpatrick, Cave, Bullock, Fowler, Emmett, Parnell etc.etc.etc.
>
> So not Kirkpatrick, Cave, Bullock, Fowler, Emmett, Parnell etc.etc.etc.
I can see I'm going to regret using the word establishment.
I was thinking of people who climbed with the 13 and/or who have written about them or that period, and those were some names that came to mind.
It seems a little unusual for an American to be writing about British mountaineering history, hence I was wondering about the reaction. I’m looking forward to reading it, anyway.
In reply to Magenta:
I know, I'm probably being a bit mean. I just have this image of a smoke filled room full of the 'accepted establishment' sitting round a large table discussing the collective response to some 'johhny foreigner' daring to write about 'our boys'.
Not having a profile, I can't tell if you're a Brit or not but I honestly don't think we Brits would mind so long as it was accurate.
I know, I'm probably being a bit mean. I just have this image of a smoke filled room full of the 'accepted establishment' sitting round a large table discussing the collective response to some 'johhny foreigner' daring to write about 'our boys'.
Not having a profile, I can't tell if you're a Brit or not but I honestly don't think we Brits would mind so long as it was accurate.
In reply to Removed User:
Hahaa, that wasn’t quite what I had in mind.
I hope Willis has done them justice as well. I’m Australian BTW.
> (In reply to Removed UserMagenta)
>
> I just have this image of a smoke filled room full of the 'accepted establishment' sitting round a large table discussing the collective response to some 'johhny foreigner' daring to write about 'our boys'.
>
> I just have this image of a smoke filled room full of the 'accepted establishment' sitting round a large table discussing the collective response to some 'johhny foreigner' daring to write about 'our boys'.
Hahaa, that wasn’t quite what I had in mind.
>
> Not having a profile, I can't tell if you're a Brit or not but I honestly don't think we Brits would mind so long as it was accurate.
> Not having a profile, I can't tell if you're a Brit or not but I honestly don't think we Brits would mind so long as it was accurate.
I hope Willis has done them justice as well. I’m Australian BTW.
In reply to Doug:
Forthcoming Book
www.keepmecurrent.com , 27 September 2006
Clint Willis, of Cape Elizabeth, Maine, will publish his first book, "The Boys of Everest," on Oct. 1.
Clint Willis sat on his back porch on Woods Road in Cape Elizabeth last week soaking up one of the last warm days of the year.
Willis, who has the small, wiry frame suited to rock climbers, who care more about proportionate strength than sheer size, is excited about adventure books, climbers and the impending publication of his first book.
His book, "The Boys of Everest, Chris Bonington and the Tragedy of Climbing's Greatest Generation," will be published on Oct. 1.
"When I was working on the book, it was exhilarating," said Willis, 48, who added that writing the book has been six years in the making. He will be reading his book at the Brown Bag Series at the Portland Public Library on Dec. 6 from noon to 1 p.m.
The book relates the struggles and tribulations of some of the most accomplished British climbers in modern history, a group whose skill peaked during a surge of new techniques and technologies in mountaineering in the 1950s and 1960s. These men included Chris Bonington, Hamish MacInnes, Don Whillans, Mick Burke, Ian Clough and several others.
Willis stakes new ground in the mountaineering lineage with The Boys of Everest by connecting to his characters' psyches for their strengths and weaknesses, exploring the hubris that propelled them. He melds the story of Chris Bonington contemplating the first ascent of Freney Pillar on the South side of the Alps' Mont Blanc with Bonington’s short six-month stint selling margarine.
"I do my best to tell a true story," said Willis, "the rest is just a snake pit."
Willis practices meditation regularly throughout the week. "People would call me a Buddhist," he said.
Though personally, said Willis, he did not see the term furthering his cause. "People who climb are looking for a version of peace," he said. Meditation can similarly give peace, said Willis.
Everything just falls away when climbing, said Willis. "People talk about finding themselves, but I think losing yourself is a better idea," he said.
Working on the book, Willis said, "I had a feeling of mastery that occasionally I feel as a climber," he said. I thought these people had something to teach me, and writing this book is how I sought it, said Willis.
Willis was born in New Orleans and grew up in the South. While a teenager, he went to summer camp in North Carolina where he first fell in love with the art of climbing.
"I loved the guys teaching us," said Willis, "that was the beginning of the story."
He came to Massachusetts to get his bachelor's degree at Williams College. He attended a doctorate program at Yale but dropped out to pursue a more hands-on education of life, he said. Willis said he wanted to avoid a stale, academic voice.
He moved to New York and tried writing a series of short stories when he was 23, which he said was the first time he wrote anything that was truly his own. "They were a set of impressions about growing up," he said. Willis said that while he felt his stories had promise, the inspiration started to dry up.
After running out of creative ideas, Willis turned his attention to making a living in writing, he said. He explained that it was a long series of events that landed him the job at Money magazine. While pursuing his career in professional writing, Willis felt he had abandoned his personal writing pursuits, but he is thankful today that his career honed his writing ability.
Willis started working as a fact checker at Money magazine and worked his way to becoming a senior writer with the magazine. He continued to work on and off for Money magazine from 1981 to 1993, freelancing for periods of time.
In 1980, he got married to his wife, Jennifer, who now teaches Yoga. Their son Harper, 23, studies at New York University and son Abner, 17, is a senior at Waynflete Academy.
In 1986, he said he moved to New Orleans for almost a year to write a book. "I didn't really know what I was doing," said Willis with a matter of fact emphasis. He said he wrote notebooks about more than 60 people he interviewed, but never compiled them into a book.
He moved to Maine in 1993 and started a freelance company in Portland that became the Writing Company, a company that has done writing for Outside, Charles Schwab & Company, Fidelity Management & Research and Forbes Custom Media. He runs the company mostly from his basement now and through the group's Web site, thewritingcompany.com.
While running his company in Maine, Willis said he has compiled and edited about 40 anthologies.
Through his time working for magazines and editing books, Willis said he has worked up his chops as a writer, and through the liberties he took with this book, he might be ready to tackle a novel.
"It is certainly something I'd think about," he said.
Forthcoming Book
www.keepmecurrent.com , 27 September 2006
Clint Willis, of Cape Elizabeth, Maine, will publish his first book, "The Boys of Everest," on Oct. 1.
Clint Willis sat on his back porch on Woods Road in Cape Elizabeth last week soaking up one of the last warm days of the year.
Willis, who has the small, wiry frame suited to rock climbers, who care more about proportionate strength than sheer size, is excited about adventure books, climbers and the impending publication of his first book.
His book, "The Boys of Everest, Chris Bonington and the Tragedy of Climbing's Greatest Generation," will be published on Oct. 1.
"When I was working on the book, it was exhilarating," said Willis, 48, who added that writing the book has been six years in the making. He will be reading his book at the Brown Bag Series at the Portland Public Library on Dec. 6 from noon to 1 p.m.
The book relates the struggles and tribulations of some of the most accomplished British climbers in modern history, a group whose skill peaked during a surge of new techniques and technologies in mountaineering in the 1950s and 1960s. These men included Chris Bonington, Hamish MacInnes, Don Whillans, Mick Burke, Ian Clough and several others.
Willis stakes new ground in the mountaineering lineage with The Boys of Everest by connecting to his characters' psyches for their strengths and weaknesses, exploring the hubris that propelled them. He melds the story of Chris Bonington contemplating the first ascent of Freney Pillar on the South side of the Alps' Mont Blanc with Bonington’s short six-month stint selling margarine.
"I do my best to tell a true story," said Willis, "the rest is just a snake pit."
Willis practices meditation regularly throughout the week. "People would call me a Buddhist," he said.
Though personally, said Willis, he did not see the term furthering his cause. "People who climb are looking for a version of peace," he said. Meditation can similarly give peace, said Willis.
Everything just falls away when climbing, said Willis. "People talk about finding themselves, but I think losing yourself is a better idea," he said.
Working on the book, Willis said, "I had a feeling of mastery that occasionally I feel as a climber," he said. I thought these people had something to teach me, and writing this book is how I sought it, said Willis.
Willis was born in New Orleans and grew up in the South. While a teenager, he went to summer camp in North Carolina where he first fell in love with the art of climbing.
"I loved the guys teaching us," said Willis, "that was the beginning of the story."
He came to Massachusetts to get his bachelor's degree at Williams College. He attended a doctorate program at Yale but dropped out to pursue a more hands-on education of life, he said. Willis said he wanted to avoid a stale, academic voice.
He moved to New York and tried writing a series of short stories when he was 23, which he said was the first time he wrote anything that was truly his own. "They were a set of impressions about growing up," he said. Willis said that while he felt his stories had promise, the inspiration started to dry up.
After running out of creative ideas, Willis turned his attention to making a living in writing, he said. He explained that it was a long series of events that landed him the job at Money magazine. While pursuing his career in professional writing, Willis felt he had abandoned his personal writing pursuits, but he is thankful today that his career honed his writing ability.
Willis started working as a fact checker at Money magazine and worked his way to becoming a senior writer with the magazine. He continued to work on and off for Money magazine from 1981 to 1993, freelancing for periods of time.
In 1980, he got married to his wife, Jennifer, who now teaches Yoga. Their son Harper, 23, studies at New York University and son Abner, 17, is a senior at Waynflete Academy.
In 1986, he said he moved to New Orleans for almost a year to write a book. "I didn't really know what I was doing," said Willis with a matter of fact emphasis. He said he wrote notebooks about more than 60 people he interviewed, but never compiled them into a book.
He moved to Maine in 1993 and started a freelance company in Portland that became the Writing Company, a company that has done writing for Outside, Charles Schwab & Company, Fidelity Management & Research and Forbes Custom Media. He runs the company mostly from his basement now and through the group's Web site, thewritingcompany.com.
While running his company in Maine, Willis said he has compiled and edited about 40 anthologies.
Through his time working for magazines and editing books, Willis said he has worked up his chops as a writer, and through the liberties he took with this book, he might be ready to tackle a novel.
"It is certainly something I'd think about," he said.
In reply to DougG: I checked that book out on Amazon but haven't gotten round to buying it as yet, let me know if its a good read. I'm just hitting the tail end of "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer where they are about to push for the summit of Everest, great book :O)
In reply to tattoo2005:
I'm just hitting the tail end of "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer where they are about to push for the summit of Everest, great book :O)
the usual follow on post is to suggest you read the climb once you've finished it for another view point.
and a fine suggestion it is.
I'm just hitting the tail end of "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer where they are about to push for the summit of Everest, great book :O)
the usual follow on post is to suggest you read the climb once you've finished it for another view point.
and a fine suggestion it is.
In reply to Chris_Mellor:
What does that mean?
> (In reply to Doug)
>
and through the liberties he took with this book, he might be ready to tackle a novel.
>
What does that mean?
In reply to Removed User:
Yes...that worried me too, as does the phrase "edited about 40 anthologies"
I'd quite like to read it; he may have done a good job.
J
> (In reply to Removed Usereroica64)
> [...]
> and through the liberties he took with this book, he might be ready to tackle a novel.
>
>
>
> What does that mean?
> [...]
> and through the liberties he took with this book, he might be ready to tackle a novel.
>
>
>
> What does that mean?
Yes...that worried me too, as does the phrase "edited about 40 anthologies"
I'd quite like to read it; he may have done a good job.
J
In reply to Tobias at Home:
Yes, Krakauer is a polished writer....but very very slanted. Anatoli Boukreev's book is much less smoothly written, but a fairer view of events (in my eyes) - whereas Krakauer demonises him.
J
> (In reply to tattoo2005)
> I'm just hitting the tail end of "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer where they are about to push for the summit of Everest, great book :O)
>
> the usual follow on post is to suggest you read the climb once you've finished it for another view point.
>
> and a fine suggestion it is.
> I'm just hitting the tail end of "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer where they are about to push for the summit of Everest, great book :O)
>
> the usual follow on post is to suggest you read the climb once you've finished it for another view point.
>
> and a fine suggestion it is.
Yes, Krakauer is a polished writer....but very very slanted. Anatoli Boukreev's book is much less smoothly written, but a fairer view of events (in my eyes) - whereas Krakauer demonises him.
J
In reply to Moacs:
Me too, I only hope it doesn't dwell too much on the 'was it all worth it' type of analysis.
Me too, I only hope it doesn't dwell too much on the 'was it all worth it' type of analysis.
In reply to Removed User:
Saw Bonnington speaking a couple of weeks back - about an expedition that had included Rouse, Boardman and Tasker.
He was upbeat, respectful and affectionate about them. One of their wives (Tasker's I think) also came along. It was celebratory and a good evening.
J
>
> How do you think Chris Bonnington must feel?
> How do you think Chris Bonnington must feel?
Saw Bonnington speaking a couple of weeks back - about an expedition that had included Rouse, Boardman and Tasker.
He was upbeat, respectful and affectionate about them. One of their wives (Tasker's I think) also came along. It was celebratory and a good evening.
J
In reply to Moacs:
Would that have been Kongur? Think it may have been the only time they were all together?
Would that have been Kongur? Think it may have been the only time they were all together?
In reply to Moacs:
I've only had to attend the funeral of one mate who died whilst climbing and whilst I'm perfectly capable of being upbeat, repectful and affectionate about him I still wouldn't want to go to many more funerals.
It would be wrong of me to second guess the effect that burying so many of his friends has had on Chris Bonington but I know that, for me, it would have been profound.
I've only had to attend the funeral of one mate who died whilst climbing and whilst I'm perfectly capable of being upbeat, repectful and affectionate about him I still wouldn't want to go to many more funerals.
It would be wrong of me to second guess the effect that burying so many of his friends has had on Chris Bonington but I know that, for me, it would have been profound.
In reply to Moacs: Kongur in China, extremely impressive alpine style expedition.
In reply to Tobias at Home: I take it The Climb is another book about the same event but from a different view point?
In reply to tattoo2005: The Climb is by Anatoli Bukurev (sp) a Russian climber with an amazing record above 8000 metres, he was acting as a guide on (I think) the Scott Fischer expedition. JK critisied him for operating without oxygen among other things, but Bukurev saved a number of lives whilst JK was in his tent sucking on oxygen. Bukurev was killed a couple of years later.
In reply to Stormmagnet:
Here's Boukreev's climbing CV
Unless otherwise noted, all summits are without the use of supplemental oxygen.
1997
· July 14, Gasherbrum II, 8035 meters. Solo Speed Ascent, Camp ABC (5800 meters) to Summit 9hrs. 30min.
· July 7, Broad Peak, 8047 meters, Solo Ascent
· May 23, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters
· April 23, Mount Everest, 8848 meters, Climbing Team Leader, Indonesian National Everest Expedition. (Supplemental O2 used)
(This is four 8000 meter peaks in 80 days.)
1996
· Oct. 9, Shisha Pangma, 8008 meters, N. Summit, Ascended Alone
· Sept. 25, Cho-Oyu, 8201 meters North Side, Ascended Alone
· May 10, Mount Everest, 8848 meters. South Col Route
· May 17, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters. Speed Solo Ascent 21hrs. 16min.
1995
· May 17, Mount Everest, 8848 meters. North Ridge Route
· Oct. 8, Dhaulagiri, 8176 meters, 17 hours 15 min. Record Speed Assent
· Dec 8, Manaslu, 8156 meters. Winter Ascent
· June 30, Peak Abai, 4010 meters. Personal Guide for President of Kazakstan
1994
· April 29, Makalu, 8460 meters. Guided Ascent of First Summit Tower
· May 15, Makalu, 8476 meters. Speed Ascent 46 hours. Main Summit
1993
· July 1-3, K2, Chogori, 8611 meters, German International Expedition
· May 14, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters. Guided Ascent with 70 year old American
1991
· Oct. 7, Mt. Everest, 8848 meters. South Col Route First Russian — American expedition
· May 10, Dhaulagiri, 8176 meters. West Wall New Route, First Kazakstan Himalayan Expedition
1990
· Feb., Peak Pobeda, 7400 meters, first Winter Ascent
· April, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters. Guided Ascent, first Ascent with clients on Cassin Ridge Route
· May, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent West Rib 10.5 hrs
· Aug., Khan Tengri, 7005 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent
· Aug., Peak Pobeda, 7400 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent
1989
· April 15, Kanchenjunga, 8556 meters. New Route
· April 30 — May 2, Kanchenjunga, 8556 meters, New Route, First Traverse of the Four 8000 meter summits of Kanchenjunga Massif (from Ylung-Khang to South Summit). All used oxygen by order of expedition leader.
1988
· First Traverse Pobeda Massif west summit to Peak Topografov
1987
· First Round Trip Speed Ascent, Peak Lenin, 14 hrs Base Camp Summit Base Camp
1981-1993
· Over thirty 7000 meter ascents
· Two hundred other ascents in Tien Shan, Pamir, and Caucasus Ranges with the National Climbing Teams of USSR and Kazakhstan.
1980
· Peak Communism, 7495 meters
· Peak Lenin, 7137 meters; First 7000'ers
1974
· First Experience in high-altitude mountains in Tien-Shan (5000 meters)
1970
· Began Mountaineering in the Ural Mountains
Here's Boukreev's climbing CV
Unless otherwise noted, all summits are without the use of supplemental oxygen.
1997
· July 14, Gasherbrum II, 8035 meters. Solo Speed Ascent, Camp ABC (5800 meters) to Summit 9hrs. 30min.
· July 7, Broad Peak, 8047 meters, Solo Ascent
· May 23, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters
· April 23, Mount Everest, 8848 meters, Climbing Team Leader, Indonesian National Everest Expedition. (Supplemental O2 used)
(This is four 8000 meter peaks in 80 days.)
1996
· Oct. 9, Shisha Pangma, 8008 meters, N. Summit, Ascended Alone
· Sept. 25, Cho-Oyu, 8201 meters North Side, Ascended Alone
· May 10, Mount Everest, 8848 meters. South Col Route
· May 17, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters. Speed Solo Ascent 21hrs. 16min.
1995
· May 17, Mount Everest, 8848 meters. North Ridge Route
· Oct. 8, Dhaulagiri, 8176 meters, 17 hours 15 min. Record Speed Assent
· Dec 8, Manaslu, 8156 meters. Winter Ascent
· June 30, Peak Abai, 4010 meters. Personal Guide for President of Kazakstan
1994
· April 29, Makalu, 8460 meters. Guided Ascent of First Summit Tower
· May 15, Makalu, 8476 meters. Speed Ascent 46 hours. Main Summit
1993
· July 1-3, K2, Chogori, 8611 meters, German International Expedition
· May 14, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters. Guided Ascent with 70 year old American
1991
· Oct. 7, Mt. Everest, 8848 meters. South Col Route First Russian — American expedition
· May 10, Dhaulagiri, 8176 meters. West Wall New Route, First Kazakstan Himalayan Expedition
1990
· Feb., Peak Pobeda, 7400 meters, first Winter Ascent
· April, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters. Guided Ascent, first Ascent with clients on Cassin Ridge Route
· May, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent West Rib 10.5 hrs
· Aug., Khan Tengri, 7005 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent
· Aug., Peak Pobeda, 7400 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent
1989
· April 15, Kanchenjunga, 8556 meters. New Route
· April 30 — May 2, Kanchenjunga, 8556 meters, New Route, First Traverse of the Four 8000 meter summits of Kanchenjunga Massif (from Ylung-Khang to South Summit). All used oxygen by order of expedition leader.
1988
· First Traverse Pobeda Massif west summit to Peak Topografov
1987
· First Round Trip Speed Ascent, Peak Lenin, 14 hrs Base Camp Summit Base Camp
1981-1993
· Over thirty 7000 meter ascents
· Two hundred other ascents in Tien Shan, Pamir, and Caucasus Ranges with the National Climbing Teams of USSR and Kazakhstan.
1980
· Peak Communism, 7495 meters
· Peak Lenin, 7137 meters; First 7000'ers
1974
· First Experience in high-altitude mountains in Tien-Shan (5000 meters)
1970
· Began Mountaineering in the Ural Mountains
In reply to Stormmagnet: Thanks for the info, I'll be shopping at the weekend so I'll pop into Ottakars to see if they have the book in stock and buy it for myself as an early Christmas pressie, it would be interesting to read the story from another point of view. I'll hopefully finish Into Thin Air tonight and then start The Climb. Any other good climbing books to recommend?
In reply to tattoo2005:
Not sure if they have The Boardman Tasker Omnibus in there just now - they used to have it - but it's essential reading!
Not sure if they have The Boardman Tasker Omnibus in there just now - they used to have it - but it's essential reading!
In reply to DougG: Hi Doug, how ya doing? I'll have a search for that one on the net, unless you have a quick five minutes to give me the low down on the story?! :O)
In reply to tattoo2005:
If you're after the Climb, it's Anatoli Boukreev. See my comments on it above.
Other good books?
Climbing (UK)
Well I recently got hold of a copy of "to the limit" by Al Harris and a lady whose name I forget. I was expecting it to be a bit cheesy, but it's actually quite an interesting take on an era. I think it's also rather close to true experiences in Harris' life (see Perrin's essay following his death).
I quite liked "native stones" too.
Mountaineering wise
Too many to mention, but other than "Touching the Void" I'm afraid I don't really rate Simpson's stuff.
"The White Spider" is a classic if you can take the quasi-German-supremacy-chest-beating with a pinch of salt and Whymper's stuff is excellent. Oh, and the second half of Annapurna (Herzog) is eye-opening about what frostbite used to entail.
J
If you're after the Climb, it's Anatoli Boukreev. See my comments on it above.
Other good books?
Climbing (UK)
Well I recently got hold of a copy of "to the limit" by Al Harris and a lady whose name I forget. I was expecting it to be a bit cheesy, but it's actually quite an interesting take on an era. I think it's also rather close to true experiences in Harris' life (see Perrin's essay following his death).
I quite liked "native stones" too.
Mountaineering wise
Too many to mention, but other than "Touching the Void" I'm afraid I don't really rate Simpson's stuff.
"The White Spider" is a classic if you can take the quasi-German-supremacy-chest-beating with a pinch of salt and Whymper's stuff is excellent. Oh, and the second half of Annapurna (Herzog) is eye-opening about what frostbite used to entail.
J
In reply to Doug: in answer to the original questions, im reading this, its not bad, but there are some innaccuracies, such as both whillans and brown being described as "plumbers" which isnt true, and is a bit lazy. the author clearly just took this from the popular press headlines at the time, which were also innacurate, whillans was a plumber, brown was not.
there are other mistakes too that i cant recall off the top of my head, and Im only part way through.
then again, I am a climbing book geek, and probably know far too much about these things.
there are other mistakes too that i cant recall off the top of my head, and Im only part way through.
then again, I am a climbing book geek, and probably know far too much about these things.
In reply to Moacs: Hiya John, thanks for the suggestions. I've already read The White Spider but I'll take a note of the other suggestions and keep a look out for them, I've always got my nose stuck in a book so always looking for new stuff to read
In reply to Moacs:
I, however, do rate Simpson's other stuff quite highly.
I didn't get any of this from the book.
Not having a go but just highlighting 'horses for courses' and all that.
> (In reply to tattoo2005)
>
>
> Too many to mention, but other than "Touching the Void" I'm afraid I don't really rate Simpson's stuff.
I, however, do rate Simpson's other stuff quite highly.
> "The White Spider" is a classic if you can take the quasi-German-supremacy-chest-beating with a pinch of salt.
I didn't get any of this from the book.
Not having a go but just highlighting 'horses for courses' and all that.
In reply to tattoo2005:
It's 4 stories Kirstin. 2 about Changabang, one by Tasker (which is the best IMO) and then one by Boardman, his climbing partner. (Actually Tasker covers some other stuff too, like the Eiger N Face in winter)
Then it's another one by Boardman about climbing Gauri Shankar (well trying to) and finally Everest in Winter by Tasker.
> Hi Doug, how ya doing? I'll have a search for that one on the net, unless you have a quick five minutes to give me the low down on the story?! :O)
It's 4 stories Kirstin. 2 about Changabang, one by Tasker (which is the best IMO) and then one by Boardman, his climbing partner. (Actually Tasker covers some other stuff too, like the Eiger N Face in winter)
Then it's another one by Boardman about climbing Gauri Shankar (well trying to) and finally Everest in Winter by Tasker.
In reply to DougG: thanks for the list Doug, truly astonishing CV.
In reply to DougG: Thanks Doug, I'll definitely have a look out for those at the weekend during some retail therapy, no doubt I will need some therapy after shopping on a Saturday, the place will be heaving no doubt! Any other recommendations for books gratefully received :O)
I found this book very compelling but at the same time was slightly uneasy about a much used device that Willis employs where the boundaries between fact and fiction become a bit blurred.
What I'm referring to is telling the story of a climbers death (eg Mick Burke pp281-283} as he might have experienced it, told by an omniscient presence travelling with him as he meets his death. The writing is good in these sections, as in the rest of the book and I became a bit more comfortable with it once I had thought about what he was doing. It was the initial realisation I suppose, that in these passages he was writing, apparently with authority, about something that only the deceased could have known about.
As editor of a Climbing Journal I get many review books sent
to me - I read very few of them cover to cover on the first day - This was one of them.
Cheers
Charlie
What I'm referring to is telling the story of a climbers death (eg Mick Burke pp281-283} as he might have experienced it, told by an omniscient presence travelling with him as he meets his death. The writing is good in these sections, as in the rest of the book and I became a bit more comfortable with it once I had thought about what he was doing. It was the initial realisation I suppose, that in these passages he was writing, apparently with authority, about something that only the deceased could have known about.
As editor of a Climbing Journal I get many review books sent
to me - I read very few of them cover to cover on the first day - This was one of them.
Cheers
Charlie
In reply to DougG:
Doug,
Pretty sure the Boardman team got to the top of Gauri Shankar (I think they climbed Shankar (which was unclimbed at the time), as opposed to the slightly higher (but already climbed) Gauri - might be t'other way round). I think they might have originally hoped to bag both summits, but this was unfeasible, so in that sense you're right.
The Everest in winter attempt by Tasker and pals (think Rouse was the leader?) definitely failed - reading about it should be enough to put all but the very hardest (craziest?!) off trips to the himalayan giants in winter!
Whilst I'm writing, I should also recommed the omnibus to the OP. 4 excellent books. Up there with the best books on mountaineering.
Adam
> (In reply to tattoo2005)
>
> Then it's another one by Boardman about climbing Gauri Shankar (well trying to) and finally Everest in Winter by Tasker.
>
> Then it's another one by Boardman about climbing Gauri Shankar (well trying to) and finally Everest in Winter by Tasker.
Doug,
Pretty sure the Boardman team got to the top of Gauri Shankar (I think they climbed Shankar (which was unclimbed at the time), as opposed to the slightly higher (but already climbed) Gauri - might be t'other way round). I think they might have originally hoped to bag both summits, but this was unfeasible, so in that sense you're right.
The Everest in winter attempt by Tasker and pals (think Rouse was the leader?) definitely failed - reading about it should be enough to put all but the very hardest (craziest?!) off trips to the himalayan giants in winter!
Whilst I'm writing, I should also recommed the omnibus to the OP. 4 excellent books. Up there with the best books on mountaineering.
Adam
In reply to adamtheclimber:
Aye, great books.
Re. Gauri Shankar, not sure but I think John Roskelley may have been the first to get to whichever one Boardman & Co didn't do.
Aye, great books.
Re. Gauri Shankar, not sure but I think John Roskelley may have been the first to get to whichever one Boardman & Co didn't do.
In reply to Doug: Bought this on Monday to keep me going through a few evenings at a hotel whilst away from work. Not finished yet - I'm currently descending Annapurna 36 years ago.
Thus far, I have some of the same feelings as Ozzrik and charliejorr about the style; it's not sitting easily with me. OK, it's written by an American for, one presumes, a transatlantic audience - though I really am curious how a book with this subject matter will sell across the pond - and words like 'gotten' just irritate me beyond measure. That's not a word that works both sides of the pond; we understand it, but it certainly isn't English. The style of describing what the climber is experiencing also jars with me; it's sometimes not clear what will have been described to the author either by the climber, or those with or close to him, and what he's projecting into the situation (by which I mean, making up). To be fair to him this is explained, either in one of the front or end pieces (can't remember which as I read both lots before starting the book proper) but as a stylistic device, it leaves me feeling rather dubious. How will it be possible to separate fact from imagination where this matters?
fxceltic has pointed out some errors and there are others - Cheshire is apparently a suburb of Manchester, for example.
So thus far, not without its faults but these haven't been enough to make me stop reading it yet, and I'm a critical and short-tempered reader if something really is badly written. The stories are, of course, compelling enough to keep the pages turning in their own right.
Clint, if your book gets the chance it would be well worth getting a British editor in touch with the climbing world - or at a pinch, even just a British editor - to have a look at this. I think I remember that you thanked lots of people in the USA for their work on this but there didn't appear to be anyone from these shores (course, I might be completely wrong) but that would cut out a lot of the crass errors (Manchester/Cheshire, though I would have hoped that even a stateside editor would have had the knowledge to check that one before letting it through) and some of the climbing-specific ones (like the Brown/Whillans error already noted).
In summary so far then; not great, but not bad. I hope there's some decent analysis at the end about the who, what and why of motivations, personalities and actions of the sort that I craved at the end of the Don Whillans biography but didn't find. You'll read this faster than the Bonington autobiographies and expedition books. Will you get more out of it?
Don't know yet. Ask me when I've finished.
T.
Thus far, I have some of the same feelings as Ozzrik and charliejorr about the style; it's not sitting easily with me. OK, it's written by an American for, one presumes, a transatlantic audience - though I really am curious how a book with this subject matter will sell across the pond - and words like 'gotten' just irritate me beyond measure. That's not a word that works both sides of the pond; we understand it, but it certainly isn't English. The style of describing what the climber is experiencing also jars with me; it's sometimes not clear what will have been described to the author either by the climber, or those with or close to him, and what he's projecting into the situation (by which I mean, making up). To be fair to him this is explained, either in one of the front or end pieces (can't remember which as I read both lots before starting the book proper) but as a stylistic device, it leaves me feeling rather dubious. How will it be possible to separate fact from imagination where this matters?
fxceltic has pointed out some errors and there are others - Cheshire is apparently a suburb of Manchester, for example.
So thus far, not without its faults but these haven't been enough to make me stop reading it yet, and I'm a critical and short-tempered reader if something really is badly written. The stories are, of course, compelling enough to keep the pages turning in their own right.
Clint, if your book gets the chance it would be well worth getting a British editor in touch with the climbing world - or at a pinch, even just a British editor - to have a look at this. I think I remember that you thanked lots of people in the USA for their work on this but there didn't appear to be anyone from these shores (course, I might be completely wrong) but that would cut out a lot of the crass errors (Manchester/Cheshire, though I would have hoped that even a stateside editor would have had the knowledge to check that one before letting it through) and some of the climbing-specific ones (like the Brown/Whillans error already noted).
In summary so far then; not great, but not bad. I hope there's some decent analysis at the end about the who, what and why of motivations, personalities and actions of the sort that I craved at the end of the Don Whillans biography but didn't find. You'll read this faster than the Bonington autobiographies and expedition books. Will you get more out of it?
Don't know yet. Ask me when I've finished.
T.
In reply to adamtheclimber:
Re. Savage Arena, I forgot about Dunagiri, Joe Tasker's description of the retreat from that mountain is just harrowing.
Amazing, 2 blokes get in a wee van, drive to India and do a new technical route on a 7000m peak in the Himalaya, then drive home again!
Re. Savage Arena, I forgot about Dunagiri, Joe Tasker's description of the retreat from that mountain is just harrowing.
Amazing, 2 blokes get in a wee van, drive to India and do a new technical route on a 7000m peak in the Himalaya, then drive home again!
In reply to Removed User: If Dick Renshaw ever wrote a book it would be worth reading.
In reply to Doug: There are some startling errors in this book which covers much "hallowed ground". It simply and at times inaccurately, repeats what has been in print for decades. Consequently it smacks of an anthology at times. Of a string of associated stories within the same covers. Whilst some may have been consulted, most are dead. I heard two very opposite comments from exceptionaly informed sources recently. One was that the book was "quite good" and the other was "pure fiction". Each must make up their own mind. a classic it will never be, collectable, probably, as it is written about a specific group. Then again like a previous poster has said I am also a climbing book geek.
In reply to Colin H:
The story of the lost money in the Bonington/Whillans ascent of the central pillar of Freney contained in this book is at odds with that in Bonington's autobiography, for example. What's true and what isn't? What was checked and what was not?
T.
> There are some startling errors in this book which covers much "hallowed ground".
The story of the lost money in the Bonington/Whillans ascent of the central pillar of Freney contained in this book is at odds with that in Bonington's autobiography, for example. What's true and what isn't? What was checked and what was not?
T.
I've started reading Boys today. It's a good looking and hefty book (over 500 pages).
Re the bit about Joe Brown being a plumber; I understood Willis to be referring to JB when he first started climbing as a teenager. According to JB's website he was an apprentice plumber before he was called up for national service.
I'm only up to Chapter 6 but it doesn't read like an anthology to me. The structure seems to be Bonington as the main strand running through with the individual climbers introduced as they meet up with CB and progress to bigger and more difficult climbs.
I think I'll be up late tonight reading.
Re the bit about Joe Brown being a plumber; I understood Willis to be referring to JB when he first started climbing as a teenager. According to JB's website he was an apprentice plumber before he was called up for national service.
I'm only up to Chapter 6 but it doesn't read like an anthology to me. The structure seems to be Bonington as the main strand running through with the individual climbers introduced as they meet up with CB and progress to bigger and more difficult climbs.
I think I'll be up late tonight reading.
In reply to Doug: Good morning Doug. I finished Into Thin Air last night and although I did enjoy the book I felt a bit deflated with such a tragic ending. Anatoli Boukreev did come across as being a very stoical character in some respects, heading out into the blizzard to try to save some of the team who were lost while others lay in their tents, too cold, too tired or too scared to help. I'm not an experienced mountaineer so will never be faced with the kind of decisions that were made on that expedition, hopefully, I guess its easy to sit and judge and to think "I would NEVER leave anyone to die" but who knows what would go on in your mind faced with those sorts of conditions, I'm not sure if I would have the balls, figuratively speaking of course, to do what Boukreev did, all the power to him as well, I would hope he earned a place in heaven for it. JK didnt come across so well at the end of the book though, and as he said himself, the regret that he carries will be something that will stay with him for a long time. Are there any books out there about Anatoli Boukreev himself? He sounds like quite an interesting character and it would be good to read what he was all about
In reply to tattoo2005:
Boukreev wrote his account of the everest disaster in a book called " The climb"
Its welll worth reading.UIts not as smooth as Thin air, but just as good,if not better.
Boukreev wrote his account of the everest disaster in a book called " The climb"
Its welll worth reading.UIts not as smooth as Thin air, but just as good,if not better.
In reply to Magenta: I understand from JB autobiography, I will check tonight, that he was an apprentice with more of a jobbing builder than a plumber.
In reply to Carpe Diem: Good morning! Aye one of the other posters did mention this book but I wondered if there was a biography about Boukreev, about his climbs etc?
In reply to tattoo2005:
Hi!!
Im not sure about his climbing Biography sorry,but i'd have a read of The climb when you get the chance.
Hi!!
Im not sure about his climbing Biography sorry,but i'd have a read of The climb when you get the chance.
In reply to Carpe Diem: Oh definitely, I'm off out shopping this weekend so going to see if I can find it and treat myself since I'll be spending money on other folk for Christmas pressie, my excuse is you need to be good to yourself you know!
In reply to Moacs:
I interviewed all the survivors except for Dick Renshaw, as well as friends and family members. In addition, about six of the survivors read the book in manuscript form and commented extensively.
I interviewed all the survivors except for Dick Renshaw, as well as friends and family members. In addition, about six of the survivors read the book in manuscript form and commented extensively.
In reply to Magenta:
The UK community, including prominent climbers who are featured in the book, has been very supportive. I was a little worried....
The UK community, including prominent climbers who are featured in the book, has been very supportive. I was a little worried....
In reply to Stormmagnet: this is correct
In reply to charliejorr:
thanks for that thoughtful take on my methods. This issue cost me some sleepless nights. I think it is largely a question of motivation. I was trying to understand events, not sensationalize them. I think this is why Bonington and others, including surviving family members, were very supportive when they read the manuscript.
thanks for that thoughtful take on my methods. This issue cost me some sleepless nights. I think it is largely a question of motivation. I was trying to understand events, not sensationalize them. I think this is why Bonington and others, including surviving family members, were very supportive when they read the manuscript.
In reply to clint willis: hi Clint, I made a comment about some innaccuracies, but on the whole the book is good and I find the way you write about certain incidents as though you were there interesting and different.
But going back to some of the problems, what sort of sources did you use from the UK when gathering historical info?
Also, its good to see you have the balls to come on here and openly talk about the book, well done.
But going back to some of the problems, what sort of sources did you use from the UK when gathering historical info?
Also, its good to see you have the balls to come on here and openly talk about the book, well done.
In reply to Tony Buckley:
thanks for all this. the manuscript was read by about half a dozen Brits, mostly the climbers themselves. They corrected many errors. The British editors simply printed what my American publisher supplied, which is standard procedure i think...
My UK readers caught many mistakes of this nature. I can get others fixed in future editions, so please sing out when you see them. thanks again.
thanks for all this. the manuscript was read by about half a dozen Brits, mostly the climbers themselves. They corrected many errors. The British editors simply printed what my American publisher supplied, which is standard procedure i think...
My UK readers caught many mistakes of this nature. I can get others fixed in future editions, so please sing out when you see them. thanks again.
In reply to Tony Buckley:
But then the version in Bonington's autobio is as far as I can know different from the one which Whillans describes in his autobio.
I think Perrin touches upon this in The Villain. He doesn't take a viewpoint since only one of the two characters involved can give their side of the story any more.
AJM
But then the version in Bonington's autobio is as far as I can know different from the one which Whillans describes in his autobio.
I think Perrin touches upon this in The Villain. He doesn't take a viewpoint since only one of the two characters involved can give their side of the story any more.
AJM
In reply to Colin H:
Pure fiction seems a bit strong! But it's not conventional history by any stretch. It's my reading of the story...what unfolded in my head based on my research.
The climbers who survive read the manuscript and commented, and I took their comments very seriously.
Please spell out any mistakes (email me if you like) so i can fix them.
Meanwhile, thanks for reading and commenting! It's fun to read all these comments, even the ones that sting.
Pure fiction seems a bit strong! But it's not conventional history by any stretch. It's my reading of the story...what unfolded in my head based on my research.
The climbers who survive read the manuscript and commented, and I took their comments very seriously.
Please spell out any mistakes (email me if you like) so i can fix them.
Meanwhile, thanks for reading and commenting! It's fun to read all these comments, even the ones that sting.
In reply to Tony Buckley:
Good catch. That said, there are two versions of that story in the literature! I went with Whillans...
Chris saw my version and did not object.
Good catch. That said, there are two versions of that story in the literature! I went with Whillans...
Chris saw my version and did not object.
In reply to Removed User:
He read the manuscript and commented extensively, and was on the whole very positive...that was a huge relief to me...
He read the manuscript and commented extensively, and was on the whole very positive...that was a huge relief to me...
In reply to Magenta:
thanks! you are correct about my reference to JB.
your take on the structure is exactly what i had in mind. have fun!
thanks! you are correct about my reference to JB.
your take on the structure is exactly what i had in mind. have fun!
In reply to fxceltic:
Seconded. I find that extremely refreshing and seeing comments from the author in response to comments made here makes it likely that as I finish the book, I'll take a few notes and send them across to help tidy up anything that seems awry.
T.
> Also, its good to see you have the balls to come on here and openly talk about the book, well done.
Seconded. I find that extremely refreshing and seeing comments from the author in response to comments made here makes it likely that as I finish the book, I'll take a few notes and send them across to help tidy up anything that seems awry.
T.
In reply to fxceltic:
thanks very much. It's actually a lot of fun.
Re sources, there were many books of course; beyond that some journals and letters. Also interviews with climbers and surviving family and friends. It was hugely helpful to have Chris and others read the manuscript with an eye toward finding errors. It would have been far worse without that.
thanks very much. It's actually a lot of fun.
Re sources, there were many books of course; beyond that some journals and letters. Also interviews with climbers and surviving family and friends. It was hugely helpful to have Chris and others read the manuscript with an eye toward finding errors. It would have been far worse without that.
In reply to Tony Buckley:
thanks. I would be greatly appreciate that sort of help from you and anyone else who is willing.
thanks. I would be greatly appreciate that sort of help from you and anyone else who is willing.
In reply to clint willis:
Hi Clint, like the others said, it's good to have the opportunity to swap comments with the author.
When I read the Acknowledgements I thought this must have been a great project to be researching. I'd be interested to hear what started you on it and how your ideas changed as you went along.
Hi Clint, like the others said, it's good to have the opportunity to swap comments with the author.
When I read the Acknowledgements I thought this must have been a great project to be researching. I'd be interested to hear what started you on it and how your ideas changed as you went along.
In reply to Magenta:
I read about some of these guys when i was first climbing as a teenager in the early 70s, in books like Annapurna South Face and Eiger Direct. I read a lot more in the process of researching four climbing anthologies (Epic, High, etc.). I thought they seemed like a very interesting bunch of guys-- driven, passionate and intelligent. I admired them.
As the research proceded, i found that they lived up to my expectations, by and large, and in some cases exceeded them. The survivors are a pretty seasoned bunch; they have matured into compassionate and wise characters (i am speaking in general terms; each one is different of course).
My research and writing also brought home the terrible nature of the losses that occurred. Really made me wonder if we realize what we're risking for ourselves and others when we take chances in the mountains.
I read about some of these guys when i was first climbing as a teenager in the early 70s, in books like Annapurna South Face and Eiger Direct. I read a lot more in the process of researching four climbing anthologies (Epic, High, etc.). I thought they seemed like a very interesting bunch of guys-- driven, passionate and intelligent. I admired them.
As the research proceded, i found that they lived up to my expectations, by and large, and in some cases exceeded them. The survivors are a pretty seasoned bunch; they have matured into compassionate and wise characters (i am speaking in general terms; each one is different of course).
My research and writing also brought home the terrible nature of the losses that occurred. Really made me wonder if we realize what we're risking for ourselves and others when we take chances in the mountains.
In reply to clint willis:
Clint, the "pure fiction" comment was not mine, but was the opinion of one of the people that you would have consulted, as was the opposing comment. Having read the book I stand by my own opinion and repeat that for me and many others, this is a touchy area. The period that you are writing about was some time ago and much has become legend and urban myth, so it was never going to be easy. You can undoubtedly get the strength of feeling from this thread, not negative as such but more protective from those who know, or think they know, the history. Also there are those much younger who are reading this book and it becomes their version of that history, so there are responsibilities around writing such a book, perhaps that no one could really anticipate. It's good to see such a debate on this forum.
> (In reply to Colin H)
>
> Pure fiction seems a bit strong! But it's not conventional history by any stretch. It's my reading of the story...what unfolded in my head based on my research.
>
> The climbers who survive read the manuscript and commented, and I took their comments very seriously.
>
> Please spell out any mistakes (email me if you like) so i can fix them.
>
> Meanwhile, thanks for reading and commenting! It's fun to read all these comments, even the ones that sting.
>
> Pure fiction seems a bit strong! But it's not conventional history by any stretch. It's my reading of the story...what unfolded in my head based on my research.
>
> The climbers who survive read the manuscript and commented, and I took their comments very seriously.
>
> Please spell out any mistakes (email me if you like) so i can fix them.
>
> Meanwhile, thanks for reading and commenting! It's fun to read all these comments, even the ones that sting.
Clint, the "pure fiction" comment was not mine, but was the opinion of one of the people that you would have consulted, as was the opposing comment. Having read the book I stand by my own opinion and repeat that for me and many others, this is a touchy area. The period that you are writing about was some time ago and much has become legend and urban myth, so it was never going to be easy. You can undoubtedly get the strength of feeling from this thread, not negative as such but more protective from those who know, or think they know, the history. Also there are those much younger who are reading this book and it becomes their version of that history, so there are responsibilities around writing such a book, perhaps that no one could really anticipate. It's good to see such a debate on this forum.
In reply to Colin H:
Thanks so much, Colin. I think you are quite right on all counts.
I recognize this as sacred ground, and felt--as i said at Banff early this month--that i was treading on thin ice over sacred waters every step of the way.
I felt a huge and growing responsibility as i worked on this project, and was greatly afraid that i would not meet it.
I also was concerned that as an outsider i might not be able to understand this story let alone render it faithfully--but i hoped my outsider status might help me maintain a useful perspective as well.
Ultimately, i decided that the most important passport required to enter this territory was a deep commitment to try to understand these men, to try to learn and in some cases imagine what happened to them and why, and to view the climbers and their loved ones with compassion at every moment.
Just trying to do those things was an once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me as a writer and as a person.
I think it's appropriate and very moving that you and your fellow Brits are determined to protect these men and their stories from careless or clumsy or venal people who might get it wrong. You should know that I feel protective toward the climbers and their stories as well.
So, anyway, thanks for this dialogue. It's heartening and useful to me.
Thanks so much, Colin. I think you are quite right on all counts.
I recognize this as sacred ground, and felt--as i said at Banff early this month--that i was treading on thin ice over sacred waters every step of the way.
I felt a huge and growing responsibility as i worked on this project, and was greatly afraid that i would not meet it.
I also was concerned that as an outsider i might not be able to understand this story let alone render it faithfully--but i hoped my outsider status might help me maintain a useful perspective as well.
Ultimately, i decided that the most important passport required to enter this territory was a deep commitment to try to understand these men, to try to learn and in some cases imagine what happened to them and why, and to view the climbers and their loved ones with compassion at every moment.
Just trying to do those things was an once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me as a writer and as a person.
I think it's appropriate and very moving that you and your fellow Brits are determined to protect these men and their stories from careless or clumsy or venal people who might get it wrong. You should know that I feel protective toward the climbers and their stories as well.
So, anyway, thanks for this dialogue. It's heartening and useful to me.
In reply to clint willis:
Was given this book as a Xmas present. Still not had a proper look at it, but I noticed one definite error in the postscript, and one possible one.
a) It says that Al Rouse died on K2 on 4 August, 1985 - the same date given a few lines below for Don Whillans' death. But of course Al Rouse died in 1986.
b) The book states Joe Tasker's body has never been found. Is this really so? I remember about 10 years ago hearing news reports that Tasker's remains had been discovered on Everest. The reason that it sticks in my mind is that I was sitting reading Savage Arena when there was a story on the TV about someone finding what was supposedly Tasker's body. Might have subsequently proved to have been mistaken identity, I guess.
Was given this book as a Xmas present. Still not had a proper look at it, but I noticed one definite error in the postscript, and one possible one.
a) It says that Al Rouse died on K2 on 4 August, 1985 - the same date given a few lines below for Don Whillans' death. But of course Al Rouse died in 1986.
b) The book states Joe Tasker's body has never been found. Is this really so? I remember about 10 years ago hearing news reports that Tasker's remains had been discovered on Everest. The reason that it sticks in my mind is that I was sitting reading Savage Arena when there was a story on the TV about someone finding what was supposedly Tasker's body. Might have subsequently proved to have been mistaken identity, I guess.
In reply to DougG:
Doug, you're correct on the first point about Al Rouse. On the second point, Pete Boardman's body was found in 1992, but Joe Tasker has not been located.
I've now read this book and was disappointed at the number of factual and typographical errors. On the positive side it gave me a good overview of this slice of British mountaineering history. I've read some of the books in the bibliography but out of chronological order so the book was valuable in that sense.
Has it been reviewed in the British press or climbing magazines?
Doug, you're correct on the first point about Al Rouse. On the second point, Pete Boardman's body was found in 1992, but Joe Tasker has not been located.
I've now read this book and was disappointed at the number of factual and typographical errors. On the positive side it gave me a good overview of this slice of British mountaineering history. I've read some of the books in the bibliography but out of chronological order so the book was valuable in that sense.
Has it been reviewed in the British press or climbing magazines?
In reply to Magenta:
To answer my own question, Terry Gifford has reviewed this book in Climb magazine:
"So what is an American editor of ripping-yarn anthologies doing telling the heroic story of our boys as a tragedy revolving around Bonington? He didn’t know the players, so how can he possibly get this story right? Anyway, why Sir Chris Bonington and not Doug Scott? Why Everest again? And how can the style of an American writer of ‘a gripping, you-are-there quality’, as the publisher’s publicity has it, catch the tone of British expeditions that included Don Whillans, Mike Thompson and Martin Boysen?
Actually Clint Willis has done surprisingly well, partly because he has a perceptive sense of character and partly because he has listened carefully to the survivors, including giving Charlie Clarke, Jim Curran and Bonington himself a last look at the final draft. Starting with the 1958 first British ascent of the Bonatti Pillar with MacInnes, Whillans and Clough, Bonington’s pivotal influence is charted up to the final ascent of Everest himself in 1985. The title is justified by this thirty year period being marked by the watershed of the last big scale expedition to Everest’s Southwest Face in 1972 and the closure of the tragedy of losses of Bonington’s companions with the disappearance of Boardman and Tasker on Everest ten years later. The death-toll of Bonington’s friends from this period is really the tragedy of two overlapping generations, from Clough, Harlin, Haston, Burke and Escourt, to Boardman, Tasker, and Rouse.
Willis is a gripping story-teller who has paid attention to detail in all the previous accounts in order to bring them freshly to life on the page. What will be controversial is his decision to try to put himself in the mind of the participants imaginatively as a writer. The British tradition of telling these stories has been one of famous understatement. But we have grown up with this tradition because these have been the participants telling their own tales, largely to others inside the British mountaineering community who have been their expected readers. Willis is both an outsider and a writer, offering this story of Bonington’s generation to a wider audience. All of his writing skills are brought to bear upon the evidence he has sifted, which he treats with respect and sincerity, and the result is a highly readable imaginative exploration of events that implicitly raises questions which Willis makes no attempt to resolve. So we are spared an outsider’s conclusions, but have to come to terms with this story ourselves, from our own perspectives. Now our analysis should begin. But first read the three-decade roller-coaster ride of this bold, gripping and thought-provoking book."
To answer my own question, Terry Gifford has reviewed this book in Climb magazine:
"So what is an American editor of ripping-yarn anthologies doing telling the heroic story of our boys as a tragedy revolving around Bonington? He didn’t know the players, so how can he possibly get this story right? Anyway, why Sir Chris Bonington and not Doug Scott? Why Everest again? And how can the style of an American writer of ‘a gripping, you-are-there quality’, as the publisher’s publicity has it, catch the tone of British expeditions that included Don Whillans, Mike Thompson and Martin Boysen?
Actually Clint Willis has done surprisingly well, partly because he has a perceptive sense of character and partly because he has listened carefully to the survivors, including giving Charlie Clarke, Jim Curran and Bonington himself a last look at the final draft. Starting with the 1958 first British ascent of the Bonatti Pillar with MacInnes, Whillans and Clough, Bonington’s pivotal influence is charted up to the final ascent of Everest himself in 1985. The title is justified by this thirty year period being marked by the watershed of the last big scale expedition to Everest’s Southwest Face in 1972 and the closure of the tragedy of losses of Bonington’s companions with the disappearance of Boardman and Tasker on Everest ten years later. The death-toll of Bonington’s friends from this period is really the tragedy of two overlapping generations, from Clough, Harlin, Haston, Burke and Escourt, to Boardman, Tasker, and Rouse.
Willis is a gripping story-teller who has paid attention to detail in all the previous accounts in order to bring them freshly to life on the page. What will be controversial is his decision to try to put himself in the mind of the participants imaginatively as a writer. The British tradition of telling these stories has been one of famous understatement. But we have grown up with this tradition because these have been the participants telling their own tales, largely to others inside the British mountaineering community who have been their expected readers. Willis is both an outsider and a writer, offering this story of Bonington’s generation to a wider audience. All of his writing skills are brought to bear upon the evidence he has sifted, which he treats with respect and sincerity, and the result is a highly readable imaginative exploration of events that implicitly raises questions which Willis makes no attempt to resolve. So we are spared an outsider’s conclusions, but have to come to terms with this story ourselves, from our own perspectives. Now our analysis should begin. But first read the three-decade roller-coaster ride of this bold, gripping and thought-provoking book."
In reply to Magenta:
I am reaidng it at the moment. In general it is a good read, factual but entertaining.
Until you get to the paragraph wehn he describes the death of the various protagonists when I find it very flowery and difficult to read. I find myslef skipping to the end of the paragraph!
If you have read The Villain, and Chris Bonington books, the Boardman Tasker Omnibus and In High Places then you probably know most of the plot alreayd but is pulled togetehr quite nicely in this book.
I am reaidng it at the moment. In general it is a good read, factual but entertaining.
Until you get to the paragraph wehn he describes the death of the various protagonists when I find it very flowery and difficult to read. I find myslef skipping to the end of the paragraph!
If you have read The Villain, and Chris Bonington books, the Boardman Tasker Omnibus and In High Places then you probably know most of the plot alreayd but is pulled togetehr quite nicely in this book.
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