UKC

Alpine rock (HVS-E2) away from the crowds?

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 KA 02 Jun 2024

Does anyone have any recommendations for alpine rock climbing venues, in the HVS to E2 range, outwith the normal alpine venues? Ideally somewhere in the northern hemisphere and reasonably accessible/not overly expensive to get to. 

In reply to KA:

Salbit area in Central Switzerland. Some very popular routes - namely the ultra classic S and W ridges - but many other great ones to go at. 

Refugio Gianetti area which is the Italian side of the Badile region. We were there mid August last year and even then had only one other party on one of two long excellent routes.

Edit: Maybe these qualify as “normal” alpine venues for you. Anyway worth a try.

Post edited at 14:43
 Robert Durran 02 Jun 2024
In reply to KA:

Depends what you mean by "alpine" but maybe the Norwegian mainland opposite Lofoten for quality routes to summits and traverses. Loads of options in the USA.

 Rick Graham 02 Jun 2024
In reply to KA:

During December, the long tradish routes in the Costa Blanca need Alpine efficiency to get up comfortably in daylight . Went every winter for years, only once had anybody on the same route, usually crag to ourselves, especially inland from the Penon. 

Lots more long routes Pyrennes , Picos etc at other times of year, probably even quieter.

Post edited at 15:34
 Exile 02 Jun 2024
In reply to KA:We had an excellent trip to the Picos de Europa for exactly this last year. 

In reply to Rick Graham:

I know what you mean but IMO and it is only my opinion there need to be glaciers for it to qualify as truly Alpine.  Having said that when I joined the Alpine Club many years ago they accepted Yosemite routes as meeting their criteria.

Post edited at 18:22
 Rick Graham 02 Jun 2024
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

I know what you mean but just as well there are a few crevasses and small glacier at the bottom of the West Flank on the Eiger.

Never joined the Alpine Club. Fancied the ACG but when I had the routes I thought I needed they seemed to have lowered the standard so never bothered.

Post edited at 19:34
2
 Robert Durran 02 Jun 2024
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

> I know what you mean but IMO and it is only my opinion there need to be glaciers for it to qualify as truly Alpine.  

In that case the Alps will soon not count as alpine and will have to be renamed. Or would the definition of alpine change with them making many other ranges alpine as well?

 ebdon 02 Jun 2024
In reply to Exile:

Seconded, for long quite alpine rock routes the picos is massively underrated.

 tjekel 03 Jun 2024
In reply to KA:

Still alps, but without crowds ... have a look at Gesäuse, specifically Haindlkar. Long rock routes 12-20 pitches in your grades. Easy to reach from either Salzburg or Vienna, alpine club hut in the center.

OP KA 03 Jun 2024

Thanks all for the suggestions. Out of curiosity, does anyone have any experience of rock climbing out in Kyrgyzstan? 

Post edited at 18:21
 Crest Jewel 03 Jun 2024
In reply to KA:

The Bavella and Restonica in Corsica offer some of the best rock climbing in those grades you'll ever do. It's unspoilt and spectacular. No crowds.


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