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americans want to have a grit season

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 colecunningha 20 Jun 2022

Hi,

My girlfriend and I want to spend a season climbing in the UK. We both live in Yosemite, have been traveling around the US climbing for some time, and both love gear climbing and bouldering. Always dreamed of climbing grit, and it would be cool to spend a full season doing so. I guess I’m asking for advice:

-we would like to live as cheaply as possible, and stay for a long time. any free ideas for lodging? does free camping exist where one could stay long term? cheap rent ideas?

-seems like weather is finicky. when would be best to visit?

-feasibility for finding work? i love manual labor

sorry if these are dumb questions. i find it hard to research.

Cole

Post edited at 22:11
 Luke90 20 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Apart from cheeky wild camping, which would need a fair amount of subtlety in the Peak, I don't think you'll find anywhere free to stay. Some campsites can be quite cheap but not completely free.

Best conditions is going to depend whether you want absolute max friction for pushing your limits on hard climbs or most pleasant conditions for generally spending time outside and camping. For absolute performance conditions, especially for bouldering, you'd probably want some of the colder months. But that's also going to come with a higher percentage of grim days when it's too wet to climb and camping is a bit of a sufferfest.

If you're going to come all the way to the UK and stay for a decent while, don't focus purely on the grit. Travel around a bit, it's all close together by American standards. Certainly check out the Gogarth or Pembroke sea cliffs.

OP colecunningha 20 Jun 2022
In reply to Luke90:

thanks, 

Definitely want to travel around- gogarth and pembroke look insane. Just thought it would be cool to try and find projects in one area.

 Offwidth 20 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

What grades do you climb?

 seankenny 20 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

I don’t want to piss on your chips but… nearly everything you find on the grit you can find elsewhere, and probably better. Technically complex bouldering? Font has that, is more concentrated in one area and has better weather. Dangerous small routes/bold highballing? Bishop has that, and is more conducive to a cheap living experience. Plus the US seems to have plenty of that sort of climbing. Very short trad routes? California has some of the world’s best trad climbing. Climbing amongst pretty villages and cute scenery? The Peak District is lovely but most European climbing takes place around pretty villages and cute scenery. 
 

The U.K. is a small country with a lot of people and it’s not really set up for free off-grid living. If you want to work, then you’ll be looking for cash-in-hand jobs, I’m sure you could find these but you might also be competing against desperate immigrants from places like Moldova and Syria. It would be a lot of effort for not a lot of return - the US dollar is very strong against the pound, do your working in the US and your spending here, you will find it quite cheap even if doing things for free is hard. 
 

I’m not saying don’t come! I’m just saying that there are better things to do that sit around in a damp October waiting for amazing grit conditions. The U.K. has loads of superb climbing that offers things you can’t find elsewhere, like our sea cliff climbing. Lots of our trad routes are really interesting. But unless you can find a way to actually live here for some months and earn money legally, I would either come in summer and tour round the country, or make the U.K. one stop in an itinerary that includes other destinations within Europe. 

4
 John Cuthbert 20 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Hi Cole, the other comments here are on the money, but there's still no question that UK trad climbing is 'world class', and so it's worth the effort. Getting the season right (the weather), though, is half the battle. Given the vagaries of weather, it may take more than one season for everything to come good. 

However, there's also some truth in the comment that much depends on what grade you want to climb. Up to 5.10d you can climb all your round, but if you want to climb harder on grit (because the holds and feet are often non existent), then friction (namely cold temperatures) are pretty crucial.  But as other have remarked, cold temps arise often in periods of bad weather. If you're from CA, I'm pretty sure you won't enjoy that.  It drives me nuts, and I'm used to it...

I'm penning this long response because I'm also considering taken a season in the US (I was thinking Reno, the cheaper side of Tahoe). Still, I'm flexible, so if cost is an option, we could always talk about a 'house swap'. I live right in a large, modern house on the edge of Sheffield, with the nearest grit climbing only 20 minutes drive away.  

Let me know your thoughts..

John C

 beardy mike 20 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Hate to break it to you but someones done a real number on you! Leave Yosemite to come to live in the UK to climb on grit? You realise most people are trying to do it in the opposite direction right? Like everybody says, there's loads more to UK climbing, let alone european climbing. I mean Cornish Granite has to be some of the best trad climbing anywhere, in a stunning setting. Think J-Tree without all the poisonous animals and plants but replaced with ice cream and seaside. I mean grits OK, but I'd probably not travel around the world for it - think you'll be disappointed? If you do decide to base yourself in the peak, it might be worth seeing if you can buy a van or a canal barge to either rent or buy while you are here. Canal living, other than the outlay for the rent or the purchase has got to be some of the cheapest living to be had. But if it were me, I'd really think about maximum mobility so you can really experience the UK. The sea cliff climbing is quite unique, and it's difficult to comprehend for most americans the variation in geography and culture you'll find in such a small area.

2
OP colecunningha 21 Jun 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

I climb 5.11 and 5.12 regularly. have projected harder

OP colecunningha 21 Jun 2022
In reply to John Cuthbert:

hey John, 

wish I had a house to swap with you. I mainly live in my car or a volunteer site in Yosemite. I lived in Reno, though, for a few years before my car stint. It's a great (albeit odd) city with great access. If you're looking for someone to rent your place and open to finding a spot in the US separately we should talk, though! 

thanks for the temps advice. seems like I would want to be around in the cold. 

cheers,

cole c

OP colecunningha 21 Jun 2022
In reply to beardy mike:

haha, I suppose I take California climbing for granted. I think mostly I am looking for a culture switch up by way of experiencing British trad. 

And it's reductive for me to only talk about wanting to climb on grit - I suppose I mean to say British trad in general. Sea cliff climbing would not be missed on a trip. Culm coast, Sennen have always been dream areas. 

 beardy mike 21 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Nothing like climbing on perfect giant yellow and pink crystals with the atlantic crashing at your feet. Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Carn Gowla... seriously my heart is racing right now just thinking about it...

1
 S Ramsay 21 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

While Americans don't need to a visa to visit the UK they may be asked to show that they have sufficient funds for their visit and/or that they have a accommodation for the entirety of their visit. Even if your plan is to work illegally cash in hand as a labourer to support yourself you want to make sure that you can convince immigration that you don't need to work, just something to bear in mind

https://www.gov.uk/check-uk-visa/y/usa/tourism

 Alex Riley 21 Jun 2022
In reply to beardy mike:

The grit is great, but like others have said have it as part of the trip rather than the whole trip. Saying you can't climb hard on grit in the summer isn't true, you just need to know which crags to go to and when to just try easier stuff.

North Wales is great (biased), the climbing is probably some of the most varied in the world, gogarth especially is a must. Probably quite easy to crash at people's houses/gardens.

Pembroke, amazing climbing on great limestone and sandstone in the north. Cheap camping near a pub too (Simon's Field £5 pppn).

Lakes. Don't know as well, but great mountain cragging. Camping can be busy and pricey.

Cornwall. Haven't climbed in Cornwall, but it's pretty high on my list of places to visit.

Scotland. Some incredible climbing, mountains and sea cliffs are the main attraction, more spread out than the rest of the UK. (Easy to doss though, different access rules).

Fuel is £2 a litre at the moment so probably worth factoring that into your plans.

Feel free to shoot me an email for more specific questions.

 Offwidth 21 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

If I were you I'd try and rely to an extent on the kindness of strangers. Climbing still has some community spirit and I'm sure you will get offers to stay for short local visits.

I'd certainly repeat the question on UK Bouldering (where more people climbing your grades hang out online).

Come in spring as you get long days typically better climbing weather and avoid midges (which can be nasty in summer). UK climbing and culture is amazing... always stuff to do even if it's too wet to climb outside. Half the nation has decent climbing nearby but Snowdonia would be top of my list.... mountain routes, lowland cragging and seacliffs all very close together and with a good local community. I'd try and see NW Scotland if you can, it's stunning in May, snow topped on the highest peaks. Pembroke and SW English coasts are amazing for climbing. The Lakes are lovely and The Peak District is better than some here are indicating and arguably has more trad climbers than anywhere... with perhaps the most impressive grit climbing being at The Roaches.

I've climbed trad in the US SW quite a lot and have fond memories of kind people as well as great routes. I wish you well.

 seankenny 21 Jun 2022
In reply to beardy mike:

> Nothing like climbing on perfect giant yellow and pink crystals with the atlantic crashing at your feet. Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Carn Gowla... seriously my heart is racing right now just thinking about it...


Cornish climbing is great but California is basically the world centre of granite climbing. 
 

Why are we not suggesting to the OP that he at least samples some of the amazing limestone to be found in Europe? They really don’t have limestone as good in the US and it’s a totally different medium that is great to climb and will feel very different to much of what is available in California. 

 wbo2 21 Jun 2022
In reply to seankenny:  There's some very , very good limestone in America (though not California ?) , but I'd agree some classic French or Spanish lime is well worth a visit.  Ditto the granite seacliffs are worth a visit, but because they're seacliffs, not because they're granite, so I'd go to Pembroke instead.

 I'd also visit some grit, because it's a bit different, has history, is well known and there's a lot of good climbing in a small space, and it's very accessible.  It might not seem to people in the UK that the stuff is so impressive, but if you want mountaineering, fly straight over and go to the alps or Norway.  But if you want cragging and bouldering, of  a world class standard, it's hard to beat Stanage

Good luck with the accomodation and work things.  The UK is not so easy for that.

2
 jkarran 21 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

> thanks for the temps advice. seems like I would want to be around in the cold. 

It's still cool in the mornings through most of the summer and the cold is overrated anyway, unless you absolutely need that last 1% you're better having more daylight and dry days available to just get on stuff. Winter here is crap, spring and autumn very variable. Take the summer, dodge the rain, travel while you're here. There's way more to Britain than the peak district and much more still just across the sea in both Ireland and France.

If you're used to living in a car or van you can just about get away with that here too, just keep moving particularly when asked to. Same for camping if you're bold or discrete but more miserable, more exposed to other people and impossible to lock up your stuff.

No idea about off the books work but you could probably get a visa for seasonal work, we've lost a fair chunk of our lower paid essential workforce across a number of sectors. I expect the process is painful. Related: everything is expensive here right now, fuel is over 9$ a gallon, housing has gone nuts, second hand vehicles are quite inflated too. Buying a car/van will require you have access to an address for registration and the compulsory insurance.

jk

 Kemics 21 Jun 2022
In reply to seankenny:

Okay so the british climbing is kind of mediocre... But what about our food and culture?! 

In fairness the climbing is niche, maybe for single pitch trad head pointing it really is world class. Id just feel hard pushed to recommend it to anyone living in yosemite. Like others have said the sea cliffs in Wales and the west country are really special.

I think if I was in OPs position I would go to mainland Europe France/spain. Could also make a detour to North Africa to climb Morocco which is spectacular and easily accessible.

In terms of finding free accommodation, I would recommend wwoofing (wwoof.net) although I'm sure there are other similar schemes

Basically you exchange labour for food and accommodation but would be easy to work it around climbing (don't need a working visa either). It's usually a few hours work a day in exchange for a bed and 2 meals a day. I worked in Japan on a rice farm. It was amazing as it kind of plugs you into a local community but gives you enough free time to explore. It's all very negotiable so you probably work a full day as a rest day from climbing and then have a couple days off. If you like labour a friend helped a guy build a eco-barn in Germany using heritage craft skills and so could find something like that? 

 Forest Dump 21 Jun 2022
In reply to Kemics:

I was just about to suggest woofing with a van! I don't know what visa requirements (Inc duration) are like for Ameicans but the OP could easily base themselves in 2 or 3 different areas with woofing

 Franco Cookson 22 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Grit - Lots of really good famous routes. Really difficult conditions. No real scene to speak of. Very busy area. Very difficult to wild camp.

North Wales - Loads of brilliant climbing in different styles. Rains a lot. Loads of people who are keen to get out. The slate is as good as grit both in terms of quality and the history and there's actually quite a thriving scene atm. It is still difficult to wild camp, but there's a lot more space than in the Peak District and it's a bit less busy.

Cornwall / SW - Some world class venues, quite spaced out. Will feel more like a holiday during the spring and summer and is really worth checking out. It generally involves quite a lot of expensive driving though. Conditions are slightly less fickle, unless you're trying to climb really hard. Wild camping is a bit easier here, although it is very difficult to meet other climbers down there, as the scene is so spaced out. 

The safest option would be to go and base yourselves in North Wales from March-July. You'll definitely get some rain, but you can do some climbing somewhere most days you like and it is pretty amazing how many different options you have. I think this is also your best chance for getting a taste of the scene you're after. You could quite easily go to the Grit from December - March and have next to no good climbing days and it's a really grim place to be when it's like this. If you did base yourself in N Wales, you could easily nip over to the Peak if conditions there looked good. 

5
 wintertree 22 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

If you let your arm be twisted doing a tour wider than the grit, I'll put in a word for the northlands - there are several crags of igneous dolerite (diabase) in Northumberland; I think most of the climbing on comparable rock is in the North Eastern USA; locally the intrusions are called the Whin Sill.

They have a wide range of grades but all below your top grade; although these are Northumberland grades, so you never know...  There's a lot of excellent venues in the area, but if you're looking for a bit of history to go with it, you can combine these with a walk along the Roman built Hadrian's Wall and a visit to one or two of the Roman fort museums.  These crags also have a fantastic aspect over the countryside; I was reminded of that driving past them late last night by the solstice twilight; hard pressed to find a better view of the north east than approaching those from the west on the A69.

Post edited at 10:30
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 seankenny 22 Jun 2022
In reply to Franco Cookson:

> The safest option would be to go and base yourselves in North Wales from March-July.

This write up is a good summary but this suggestion is mental. Let’s be honest, how many long trips do any of us do in a lifetime? Really, not that many. The opportunity cost of coming all the way from Yosemite (!) to spend March in N Wales is massive. There is a f^*k-ton of world class climbing in Europe and it seems weird to suggest sampling mostly just the bit of it that’s within 40 miles of Llanberis. 
 

As for Northumberland, it’s awesome. But given the choice between flying five hours to the sandstone of the New River Gorge or twelve hours to Bowden Doors… is this really even a question?!

Post edited at 10:46
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 seankenny 22 Jun 2022
In reply to Kemics:

> Okay so the british climbing is kind of mediocre... But what about our food and culture?! 

> In fairness the climbing is niche, maybe for single pitch trad head pointing it really is world class. Id just feel hard pushed to recommend it to anyone living in yosemite. Like others have said the sea cliffs in Wales and the west country are really special.

I remember somewhere reading a quote from Jibé along the lines of “British climbers always tell me there are no good climbs in the U.K., but whenever I visit I find excellent cliffs and climbing.” 

On food, no the U.K. is not a top tier food country, it’s not Italy, France, Spain, Japan, Sri Lanka. But in general, I’m not sure the US is either. Both countries are kind of second tier, lots of dross but some really good food too.

As for culture, both climbing culture and the wider variety, that’s absolutely a reason to come here surely? 

> I think if I was in OPs position I would go to mainland Europe France/spain. Could also make a detour to North Africa to climb Morocco which is spectacular and easily accessible.

A trip where you took in Gogarth, the Verdon and Taghia would probably be pretty memorable!

 Franco Cookson 22 Jun 2022
In reply to seankenny:

You may be correct, but I get the impression that the OP is keen to sample the UK. I don't think it's really up for debate whether the UK has some world-class climbing. It obviously does and if you want to sample it, you kind of have to risk some wet weather. The OP hasn't specified how hard he wants to climb, but he has suggested he's on a bit of a budget. If he was a visiting wad, with a partner and willing to travel, I'd say base yourself in Carlisle and go where the conditions are good between March and July. Those months are the best conditions pretty much everywhere in the UK and there's as much great climbing in the north as in the south, and whilst you will get rain in all areas, if you are mobile, you never really need to experience it.

In North Wales you have Anglesey, the slate, the Orme etc. You can often find dry rock and the variety of rock types is exceptional in N Wales. You could of course endure 2 months of mostly rain in North Wales, but at least you'll get a lot done on the slate and probably Gogarth, which you wouldn't get elsewhere. I think the main message to get across to visitors is that Grit is very risky in terms of conditions and there is no hard grit scene to speak of. 

 Kemics 22 Jun 2022
In reply to seankenny:

> A trip where you took in Gogarth, the Verdon and Taghia would probably be pretty memorable!

I would happily co-sign this. Maybe sneak in the Italian dolomites as I feel that's pretty unique too. Like USA has lots of big mountain ranges but nothing like the dolomites. Alpine climbing and then having a cappuccino and beer in a refugio perched on a mountain summit is a unique European experience...AHH there's more climbing in Europe to fit into a lifetime, let alone one road trip!

1
In reply to colecunningha:

We British do like to shit on ourselves don't we.

-we would like to live as cheaply as possible, and stay for a long time. any free ideas for lodging? does free camping exist where one could stay long term? cheap rent ideas?

you can find accommodation in a shared house without too much bother if you look around here and on UKB.

-seems like weather is finicky. when would be best to visit?

No argument that high summer can be unpleasant with midges and a lot of grit is exposed to the elements so hot weather means being restricted to north facing crags, forrested crags. December and January are pretty wet. Either side of that, you get all sorts of weather but if you dedicate a season you'll get plenty of opportunity to climb. Early to late spring, early summer or late summer to late autumn or early winter. The poor weather is the perfect excuse to train, grow skin and earn money. Ready for the next weather window.

-feasibility for finding work? i love manual labor

As an American I don't know. I had friends from the USA who worked high ropes access back in the day (20 years ago) but I'm sure the industry has changed.. As has been said, fruit picking, labouring for builders - not sure how well paid these are. Offering services such as van and man, handyman, cleaning. There are certainly options. Again, if you want it badly enough.

I'm based just outside Leeds (another great city but a smaller scene than Sheff). I climb in Europe every Easter and summer. I love it. The rest of the year I have a lifetime of quality projects within 20 minutes from my front door. 

If you want to come and sample grit, the best way is to dedicate a season. Less than that and weather could write off a short trip. I would recommend coming over, basing yourself in Sheffield. There's no argument that a good centre for British climbing. There are scenes north, south and west but Sheffield has a good scene and has a lot to offer:

You have a bunch of psyched people who are drawn to Sheffield for the climbing and choose to go to the university for that reason. As a result you get a load of people who settle there after uni and continue to climb. You have families of climbers who's kids are into it. I don't think this can be underestimated. Having a bunch of psyched people to train with, climb alongside, get route recommendations, local knowledge is a big draw for a lot of people. More people mean you are more likely to meet like-minded people.

From Sheffield you have very quick access to the Peak for grit and lime so you can take advantage of short weather windows. Further afield you can head further north for Yorkshire within an hour for more grit, the North York Moors in little more than an hour and Northumberland beyond that. You have the Lakes in easy enough access. You can access Wales fairly quickly too. There are times when the whole country is a write off, weather-wise but usually there is a corner where conditions are mint. Scotland is far, the south-west too but based in Sheffield you could take a trip there if you fancied.

Sheffield is a pretty good British city with a lot of culture to sample. Good food, good nightlife, small museums and galleries, plenty of employment opportunities. It's popular for a reason. You can also access Leeds dead easily, get to Manchester in little over an hour so you get to sample those places too which have even more on offer.

I'd do it. The UK has a lot to offer. 

4
 seankenny 22 Jun 2022
In reply to The Connor-Crabb:

This is turning into a thread of the most bonkers advice I’ve seen on UKC in many a moon. Leave California to rent a place in Sheffield in November and scrat around for a piece of dry rock?! We know what British climbers actually think of this option because they have the choice to do this but don’t, instead they go to Spain or Greece. 

This isn’t being down on the U.K. , it’s being realistic. 

6
 mrjonathanr 22 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Hi Cole, despite some negative comments I think your idea is a good one. The grit is pretty special but you will encounter some wet weather during the better season for it, which is generally out of summer months. That said, you'll have fun on it in the summer too.

North Wales is a good suggestion above, both for variety and for weather- when one area is wet you can usually move round the mountains to a drier spot.

UK is an island nation- the must do climbing on sea cliffs here is endless. if you were to pick one, it's Gogarth: Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff Gogarth South Stack

Hope you have a great trip.

 mrphilipoldham 22 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

All the advice on this thread suggesting galavanting around Europe is peak UKC. Not only does it go against the climate change mantra that is strong here, but also completely ignores the desire/need to live as cheaply as possible. 
Yes, the weather is finicky but there isn’t a day go by where you couldn’t climb on dry grit if you so wanted. You’d have to be imaginative, and have to have a desire to visit some places that you’d consider a bit bizarre having travelled half way around the world to do so. Plenty of ever dry problems on crags that even hardened UK grit fanatics will never visit. 
Everyone seems to have suggested Sheffield as a base and whilst this is reasonable, it does also make visiting the western Peak and world class crags up in to West and North Yorkshire something more of a drag, especially with such changeable weather conditions. You’d do much better to base yourself somewhere more central such as Huddersfield. Easy access down to the Peak, up and across to North and West Yorkshire and only the Roaches proving to be any more than an hour away. The bonus is that you’re also 30-40 minutes closer to the Lake District and North Wales if a day trip to the mountains was on the cards. I think West Yorkshire is a bit cheaper to live in than Sheffield too.

5
 Franco Cookson 22 Jun 2022
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

The centre of British climbing: Huddersfield.  

 AJM 22 Jun 2022
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Hang on, it's peak UKC to suggest visiting some of the European venues that are genuinely in the creme de la crème, generally with significantly more stable weather and better opportunities for dirtbag living, but perfectly sensible to suggest moving to Huddersfield to "be imaginative, and have to have a desire to visit some places that you’d consider a bit bizarre ... that even hardened UK grit fanatics will never visit."

Whatever you're smoking, I want some...

3
 mrphilipoldham 22 Jun 2022
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Sheffield, the bottom right of grit country. It’s the 21st century, you don’t need to be in a particular place to make the most of a particular experience. The internet will provide no shortage of information and willing partners.

Post edited at 21:58
 mrphilipoldham 22 Jun 2022
In reply to AJM:

Did it answer the problem posed? Yes. Cheap. Good access to all the grit. If he decides that it’s not that attractive a proposition then he might reconsider his plans and consider some of the other options given up thread.

Edit - I’ll give you peak UKC to suggest euro trips

Post edited at 22:04
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 seankenny 22 Jun 2022
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I remember back in’t day when people used to dream of leaving Leeds or Huddersfield to winter in Bishop or Heuco. Swapping grey rain and burnt out cars for sun-baked crags and frozen yoghurt bars (that was a thing back then). 
 

Now it appears that the opposite is cool. Is this what prog rock fans felt when punk was invented?

 Franco Cookson 22 Jun 2022
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Nah, you are probably right - a bit like my Carlisle suggestion. I just thought it was a hilarious suggestion. I could just see an image of this poor guy leaving California in November and rocking up at Huddersfield.  So good 😂

 redjerry 22 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

As someone who can hit Red Rocks after work and Yosemite for a long weekend, just ignore a lot of the stuff upthread. The trad climbing in the UK is brilliant.
The shear quantity and variety is incredible and the style is really different (in a good way) from what you'll be used to in Yosemite.
Although I love gritstone, I do agree with some upthread who think you'd be missing out if you focused exclusively on grit. The other stuff, some of which is mentioned above, is every bit as good and equally unique.

 mrphilipoldham 22 Jun 2022
In reply to Franco Cookson:

The idea of someone coming from the states to spend months climbing our little rocks is pretty bizarre concept to grasp I guess when 99% of traffic is in the opposite direction. I’ve travelled extensively and ended up doing some rather mundane nonsense that’s probably baffled locals too though, so who are we to judge?  

1
 wintertree 22 Jun 2022
In reply to redjerry:

>  just ignore a lot of the stuff upthread.

I flew in to London once with a US marine from California who was booked on the scheduled flight.  They were blown away by various aspects of England as seen from the air as we came in to land.  Particularly the green-ness of it all and how green the towns and cities were.

My mind often drifts to Yosemite even though I've not been there in almost a decade; but it's easy to forget that one person's back yard is another's exotic dream destination. Change and variation is what makes experiences and memories.  

 robate 22 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

Hey, don't be put off by some of the comments on here. Stanage is the Old Course in my book, grit has soul. I know there's great climbing elsewhere but hey..

As for saving money I don't know, I like the idea of finding a canal and some house sitting is a thing as well. Hope you have a wonderful trip.

 seankenny 22 Jun 2022
In reply to redjerry:

> As someone who can hit Red Rocks after work and Yosemite for a long weekend, just ignore a lot of the stuff upthread. The trad climbing in the UK is brilliant.

> The shear quantity and variety is incredible and the style is really different (in a good way) from what you'll be used to in Yosemite.

> Although I love gritstone, I do agree with some upthread who think you'd be missing out if you focused exclusively on grit. The other stuff, some of which is mentioned above, is every bit as good and equally unique.

I don’t think anyone is saying the trad climbing in the U.K. isn’t brilliant. Just that lots of time doing one thing means you’re can’t do other things, and some of those other things are pretty good too, if not considerably better. To me suggesting to a foreigner seeking advice that the U.K. is a good destination in March or November is a bit mean! We should also probably be clear what chasing conditions can actually cost at the pump…

1
 seankenny 22 Jun 2022
In reply to wintertree:

> >  just ignore a lot of the stuff upthread.

> I flew in to London once with a US marine from California who was booked on the scheduled flight.  They were blown away by various aspects of England as seen from the air as we came in to land.  Particularly the green-ness of it all and how green the towns and cities were.

I once flew Islamabad to Manchester, as we descended the man sat next to me was staring out of the window, transfixed.

“Is… is that… a motorway?” he asked. I confirmed that it was indeed a motorway.

”It’s beautiful, so beautiful,” he said, and continued to admire the glory of rush hour on the M56.

 alan moore 23 Jun 2022
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

> . I’ve travelled extensively and ended up doing some rather mundane nonsense that’s probably baffled locals too though, 

Reminds me of the time I was slithering around on Glacire Point Apron, doing routes that finished a quarter of the way up the crag and thinking, this is shite compared to Etive Slabs...

 TobyA 23 Jun 2022
In reply to seankenny:

> This is turning into a thread of the most bonkers advice I’ve seen on UKC in many a moon.

But you live in London Sean, so of course you are professionally grumpy.

More seriously, I think when you live very close to the crags, it massively decreases the opportunity costs in going out and trying, to see what conditions are like. I've just realised I can look at the diary section of my logbook. Considering I'm a teacher who works full time and I have a family so responsibilities there, looking at last year https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/e.php?d=2021&u=527 I seem to have managed to climb something most weekends and normally one mid week evening in the summer - Jan and Feb were write offs because of the lock down, this year they look a bit more populated, although I went out mountain and gravel biking on a couple of weekends rather than climbing. If you can climb mid-week and are willing to swap between sport, trad and bouldering, and are 10 - 20 minutes away from the crags you can probably get loads done.

This of course says nothing about whether an American would have a good time spending a winter/spring in Sheffield. I did climb with a visiting Peruvian the other week who had come all this way mainly it seemed after watching Wideboyz videos!

To the OP: it sounds really boring, but as an American if you do come for a visit you really should consider health/travel insurance. If you smash yourself up you absolutely will be scooped up by the MRT and taken to hospital and put back together again, but ultimately my understanding is you will get charged for it. I had this conversation with the Peruvian visitor, and I was a bit alarmed that he didn't have insurance. I did my best to keep him safe when he climbed in the Peak with me! But he slipped off a route in North Wales (in the rain) a few days later and his mate had to take him to Casualty (ER) to check his ankle wasn't broken. He was impressed this was "free". I don't think it actually is, although whether he will eventually get tracked down and sent a bill is another matter. People have probably heard the story of the Canadian wad who fell off Parthian Shot and decked. He didn't have insurance so chose to hobble back to Heathrow and fly back to Canada for treatment - from what I remember he had hurt himself quite seriously so the trip home must have been agonising. 

 Iwan 23 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

You can camp in my garden for a week or two. I'm in north Wales and within walking distance of the slate and within a short bus ride of many other types of climbing. I might be able to arrange a few nights in local mountaineering/climbing club huts too.

In reply to colecunningha:

Don't forget Fairhead in Northern Ireland. American friends who have climbed all over the world thought this was world class. 

 Offwidth 23 Jun 2022
In reply to TobyA:

Insurance is very wise ...however some treatment is still free:

 'There is no charge for certain types of treatment such as A&E outpatient treatment, treatment for infectious diseases specified in the regulations, treatment of sexually transmitted infections and family planning services. It is worth noting that we have very clear exemptions in place to protect the most vulnerable and to ensure that treatment is always available to those in the UK who need it urgently regardless of their eligibility status. This has not changed following the UK’s departure from the EU"

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/how-the-nhs-charges-overseas-vis...

 cem 23 Jun 2022
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Surprised to see only one mention of Fair Head so far

 GDes 23 Jun 2022
In reply to wintertree:

If I travelled from california to climb at peel crag, I think I'd be fairly underwhelmed. Surely we can offer better than that! 

 wintertree 23 Jun 2022
In reply to GDes:

Like I said to the OP, it’s all below their top climbing grade, but if they’re looking for more than just the climbing it’s got a lot to offer - literally right on top of (or below…) incredible history (literally topping out on the Roman wall), and fantastic scenery that’s unlike anything I’ve seen in the USA.  It’s not as epic by a long stretch, but it’s wonderful and it’s different.

All depends on what the OP wants.

 John Cuthbert 24 Jun 2022
In reply to colecunningha:

thanks Cole


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