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Arapiles 2019

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 Andy Clarke 04 Apr 2018

I'm part of a small group planning a first visit to Arapiles in 2019, for approximately 3 weeks. My initial thoughts are to go from mid-March to mid-April, finishing just before the Easter break. (Good Friday is quite late in 2019, the 19th April.) I know there are some Araps aficionadi on here and I'd welcome any thoughts, particularly on the suggested dates. Also, have you got one must do route - anything from Diff to E2.

 Murcantile 04 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Take a down jacket! Seriously! It gets cold at night!

Too many classics to list! 3 star routes all over

suppose you should tick Kachoung! 21 which is E1 I think! All the watch tower routes! The right hand side is only a 16 but has this airy traverse where you step into space on pitch two!  Some great jamming cracks and a few of widths it’s really all there! 

Find a local and get him to show you scorpion squeeze! 

Have fun its great in the pines! Don’t forget to check the toilet seat for red backs before you do your business! 

Plus im serous about the down jacket! It gets really cold! You should try day trip to Taipan wall whilst your there! Though that’s a dedicated trip in itself!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 GMohr 04 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

I second the down Jacket, Was out there for most of April a couple years ago and was quite chilly and surprisingly damp actually, its an amazing place, cant wait to go back.

 

 Takein 04 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Just rock up, find a nice pitch and settle in. Don't get too caught up on any one must-do route. Some of my favourites out there were all unexpected adventures. Watchtower Crack, Lamplighter, Muldoon and Checkmate were all super memorable, happy days.

The Pines is like Camp Four, you wander around, chat shit and climb whatever takes your fancy and suits the weather on the day. Everything is super accessible and mostly easy to find.

My tips: do some easy classics in the dark, do some long days of multipitch link ups. Catch some sunsets and sunrises from the top of the crag, take insect repellant, a down jacket, a ton of sunscreen, a tarp to rig up some shelter, and a taste for VB, pies and ice cream. Araps a very special place.

In reply to Andy Clarke: am out in Australia now. that time of year would be perfect the weather is good, not too warm or too cold, dry etc. 

obvious routes would be; kachoong, tannin, scorpion corner, Chinese algebra, scorpion crack, tiptoe ridge, quo vadis, wraith, etc etc. have a look at my logbook for others

 

OP Andy Clarke 05 Apr 2018
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Thanks all. Very useful info. Any more tips from anyone? In addition, any crags in the Grampians for a day visit, that would be well suited to a mixed group climbing trad from Diff to E2? 

 Murcantile 06 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Ask around at Pines, plenty of locals will give you beta! However if your only there 3 weeks the Araps is the only destination you need!

I would recommend checking out Taipan wall whilst your there even if your not into sport it’s amazing hard sandstone overhanging cliff.

i did some trad in the gramps but to be honest the araps were way better! Good bouldering around the gramps depends how much you want to drive around! But if your there for Trad then Araps for me was the best! Unless you want to really get out into the Bush 

Would love to go back but too many places in world to see, ps hope they still do roast beef gravy rolls at the local shop! 

Post edited at 14:48
In reply to Murcantile:

Another vote for the Watch Tower route (is it WT Chimney?).

And you have to attempt the split boulder challenge.

Don't take a tent, just buy one once you get there.

Definite down jacket, cold at night

 Phil1919 06 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Skink.

 

 barney800 07 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Sounds like a great trip! Some good advice on here already. With that amount of time I'd recommend having a good nose around all parts of the crag. There are some great routes in the (Far) Northern Group (e.e. Entertainer) and tucked away in the gullies (e.g. King Rat).

I also think it's well worth spending some time in the Grampians. It's a much more idyllic bush setting and Heretic up at Mt Rosea is one of the best routes I've climbed anywhere. 20th Century Fox and Blimp are high on my wishlist too but I'm distracted by bouldering at the moment.

The cafe in Natimuk is a great place for dinner at the weekends. Ginger Chilli in Horsham is good for Asian fusion and Cafe Jas does great eggs benedict. Don't drink any Carlton or VB unless you're desperate - there's plenty of good beer over here. Best's and Seppelt in Great Western are a good stop on the drive up if you like your wine.

OP Andy Clarke 07 Apr 2018
In reply to barney800:

Definitely keen to explore the whole crag and those look excellent routes. Thanks for the tips about beer and food. Have to confess, exploring the IPAs has been one of my favourite rest day activities on trips to the States! Any specific beer recommendations for Victoria?

 barney800 07 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

I'm enjoying the beers from the Stomping Ground brewery at the moment - a newish place in Melbourne. Holgate's another favourite (especially the chocolate porter on a winter's day) and Bridge Road are mates with the local hop farmers so often produce some interesting stuff. I've not had much luck finding my favourite beers around Arapiles and the Grampians although things are on the up. You seem to be able to get Hop Hog, a solid beer from WA, in most bottle shops and Bonnie and Clyde Pizza in Horsham also seems to have a more interesting selection than most places round there.

 Darron 07 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Muldoon is a must do.

Tiptoe ridge might be the best diff in the world ????

Get the selected guide not the Louise Shepard definitive

 

 

 

OP Andy Clarke 07 Apr 2018
In reply to barney800:

Cheers!

Removed User 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Try to avoid the Easter rush...every man and his dog at the Pines. I would also recommend Stapylton campsite, for Summer Day Valley climbs. Also consider hiring a local climbing guide, like Simon Mentz, to show you around the Arapiles climbs, and explain the local style.

 Rog Wilko 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Chatting with daughter, who lives in Natimuk, yesterday. It's been over 30 degrees over the weekend. Autumn over there is much more settled than spring, generally, but it doesn't mean you won't get 30 degrees one day and 12 the next.

My stand-out routes are

Watchtower Crack (16),

Skink (18) 

Brolga (16) (worth noting that a Brolga is a bird with a long neck),

Muldoon (13)

Resignation (15)

Lamplighter (14) (you might like this  https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/just_the_best_vs_in_the_world-...)

Bard (12)

Arachnus (9)

Then there is an endless number of low grade routes like Eskimo Nell (10), Beau Geste (9) (my favourite, though little known), Syrinx (10) and many more.

Plus a couple of less renowned but still brilliant routes

Hot Flap (14) and Dunes (15)

We expect to be there again in the Christmas period. I've decided I'm now old and decrepit enough to do Tiptoe Ridge (5)

Whatever you do, it'll be good.

 

Post edited at 14:25
 spidermonkey09 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Date wise that looks pretty good to me. Arapiles is the best place to trad climb on the planet in my view. I was there for three months September - December 2016 and loved the place. If you email me I have a word doc with some advice/beta I made for a friend going out there.

I'd need to have a proper think for best routes...but in the HVS-E2 range: 

Scorpion (18) - crazy exposure, take big cams

Missing Link (17) like a gritstone slab

Wasp (20) 

Thunder Crack (20) probably E2

No Future (21) - close to camp and some of the best rock in the world

My vote for the must do route in that range would be Auto Da Fe (21). Its top end E2 but if you like slabs, have a reasonable range of C3's and small gear and double ropes there is plenty of gear on the crux (2nd) pitch. Do it in the shade!

The other must do route is in the Grampians: 20th Century Fox (20). This is the best route I have ever done! Do not leave without doing it; its on the front cover of the newest Grampians guidebook.

 

 

Post edited at 14:43
OP Andy Clarke 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Great suggestions, thanks.

Post edited at 19:40
OP Andy Clarke 09 Apr 2018
In reply to spidermonkey09:

More great suggestions, thanks. I do like slabs, so Missing Link and Auto Da Fe are certainly going on the list. The advice/beta would be great: I'll email you.


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