In reply to jon_gill1:
The Röker brothers guide is in German/English and parts of one of the others (Schwertner or Thum) if I remember rightly (I use the Röker guides).
Beware, they are all around 1,000 pages, the Röker and Schwertner are two volumes and the Thum one is a single brick. There is also a third Röker update with another 1200 routes.
Warning! If you buy a guide titled "Frankenjura" it could be for the Southern Frankenjura which is the area an hour´ s drive to the south, the better known and larger area is called the Northern Frankenjura.
For only one or two days a guide book is a waste of time and money really, just go to the online guide on Frankenjura.com
https://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/panorama
There´s about 6,000 routes on there so enough for a weekend!
There are no unmissable routes up to 7a, just a lot. Forget trad. Carry a handfull of nuts if you go to a cliff which needs them (the guide will tell you). Take a long clipstick, the first bolts are a looong way up compared with other places (there´ s always a stick lying on the ground if needed).
The top anchor is usually just a single bolt, make sure you know how to re-thread bolts with small eyes.
Take some mozzie cream.
Discreetly sleeping up in a van is normal. Eichler´ s is tents only from memory. Campsite behind the pub at Moritz but there are plenty others.
Eat out anywhere, the Röker guide gives recommendations but there are hundreds of pubs in the area.
The local ethic is climb hard!
The style and grading can be a challenge to visitors.
Finding the cliffs can also be a challenge!
Post edited at 08:42