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Best multi pitch 7a-7c in Europe?

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 jezb1 27 Sep 2019

Looking for next summer inspiration.

10 pitch ish, genuine sport, somewhere in the 7's.

My only idea so far is Muro Giallo/Gelbe Mauer (Yellow Wall) (7a+)

 nniff 27 Sep 2019
 DaveR 27 Sep 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Fiesta de los biceps at riglos

 neilh 27 Sep 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Surveiller et Punir (7a+)

Surveiller et Penir

verdon

In reply to jezb1:

I agree with Dave, Fiesta del biceps in Riglos, nothing out there like it, at that angle and with those holds.

 Carless 27 Sep 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Bleu Comme la Mer Rouge, Cap Canaille

It's got everything: sandstone, sculptured limestone, Riglos potatoes, conglomerate pebble pulling - look on google images

Probably too hot in summer though and only 8 pitches (I think)

 gustl 27 Sep 2019
In reply to jezb1:

hard to say, there is soooo much. what style are you looking for?

technical wall climbing, steep juggy, clean granite cracks, bolted or alpine style, very long but a bit easier or shorter and harder.

- alpha & omega, meisules, sella

- via del pesce, marmolada

- blue velvet, daeumling, gosaukamm

- ave cesar, petit clocher de portalet

- patent ochsner, wendenstoecke

...

Post edited at 20:52
 Dan Arkle 27 Sep 2019
In reply to jezb1:

I bet Andy Moles has done enough of them to know. 

Also have a look at at the Parois de Legendes coffee table book/ticklist

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1069

 Andy Moles 29 Sep 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

I definitely haven't, those are routes I want to do rather than routes I've done.

My own list is much inspired by Parois de Légende, and therefore fairly Francocentric. Also if by 'genuine sport' Jez means 'close together bolts', I'm not sure all of those qualify.

 JR 29 Sep 2019
In reply to DaveR:

For what it's worth, I think Tucan Ausente (7a) is better than Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera) (7a) - not to take away from the fact that its a great route nonetheless.

Of the routes in Parois de Legende (which as Dan says is a great source of inspiration for this question) the best one I've done so far (unfortunately out of Europe) has been La Guerre Sainte (ED2). Entirely unsuitable for summer, but definitely worth the trip, and possibly the best winter sun available.

Post edited at 17:19
 Dan Arkle 29 Sep 2019
In reply to JR:

If we are going out of Europe, then rivieres poupres at Taghia is utterly stunning. The best mid 7s route I've done by a long way. Most Taghia stuff has reasonably easy approach and descent, and is exceptionally well bolted. 

Rivieres Poupres (7b+) 

 malx 29 Sep 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Intifada (7a+) is the best I've done for sure. 

 dominic o 30 Sep 2019

 jezb1:

Another +1 vote for Parois de Legende as a source of inspiration, and Riglos (Fiesta of course, but also Carnavalade for example) 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2016/03/29/more-pudding-please/

Also in P de L, but not sports climbing, the Brandler-Hass on the Cime Grande is an outstanding, long 7a+

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Penon in Calpe yet - there are a bunch of excellent long 7s on there, including:

Nueva Dimension, Puto paseo ecológico and Mare Nostrum https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/02/12/penyon-difach/


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