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Best routes in Margalef/Suirana 7a-7b+

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Looking for a hit list. What are the best low-mid 7s in Margalef and Suirana?

I have the Tarragon Climbs guidebook, but any other recommendations for useful resources would be great.

Thanks in advance!

 Emilio Bachini 25 Nov 2018
In reply to jacobjohncharles:

Please excuse me for lack of links, I’m using my phone and find it takes longer than I want it to.

Serres de mestral   7b, can’t remember much but being thankful to finish it. A couple of hard sections and if I remember correctly it may be incorrect in the guidebook in some way.

La muerte del sponsor  7b+, you’ll see why as soon as you see it. It’s asking to be climbed.

Borinot Extension 7a, in Arboli but worth the trip.

Mistyflowers 7a, also Arboli but different sector and very different style. Also worth the trip.

There’s tonnes more, some of which I’ve climbed and very few which I can remember. Though that’s not a comment on their quality.

It’s worth the trek up to Montsant and there’s plenty of smaller crags in the guidebook you have worth checking out.

If you find yourself up near Lleida, check out Camarasa, plenty of great climbing. I’m sure there’s so much more in the area too. 

 Ciro 25 Nov 2018
In reply to Emilio Bachini:

> It’s worth the trek up to Montsant 

Seconded.

Raco de Misa is best known for the harder steep stuff, but there's a handful of top drawer long, vertical, techy low 7s.

And it's up there with siuranella centre for stunning views while climbing at sunset

 

 Wft 25 Nov 2018
In reply to jacobjohncharles:

The flowstone wall at Raco De Finestra (Margalef), 7b-7c but all about 7b+ really. Brilliant climbing and not minging. 

Anys Biònics (7b+) on the Salt de la Reina Mora sector of Siurana is just brilliant too, the 7a next to it is also world class. 

 Ian Patterson 25 Nov 2018
In reply to Emilio Bachini:

> Borinot Extension 7a, in Arboli but worth the trip.

Not really a trip particularly if you're staying in Cornudella where its about 10 minutes drive.  El Falco is one of the best crags in the area for 6c to 7b and if the weather isn't too cold should have good conditions (sun in afternoon).  Wall climbs up to 40m on superb rock, so much good stuff its hard to recommend routes but I really enjoyed  Chanidangersch (7a+,soft, wall climb), Pa Ella y pa los Guiris (7a+, smith rock style corner with tough exit) and Jinga (7b, bit shorter at about 25m, steeper and pumpy).   

Would second raco de misa unless its really windy, lots of sustained pocket climbing on long routes in the 7a to 7b+ range.  

Margalef I've mainly climbed on the shady crags (incl Raco de Finestra mentioned already) which I imagine may be cold in December.  There are lots of sunny crags which should give loads of good climbing in requested grades.  

I find its quite good to alternate between wrecking your tips on the crimps in Siurana with second joints on the pockets in Montsant/Margalef/

 

In reply to jacobjohncharles:

Cheers for the recommendations all!


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