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Best sport climbing spots in North Wales/ UK

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 Robheirene 31 May 2015
Hi there,

Myself and my partner are thinking of taking our first little trip since the birth of our son somewhere in North Wales or elsewhere in the UK to do some sport climbing. We live in South Wales so have tapped out most of the sport climbing areas here and wanted to try somewhere new.

Can anyone suggest the best sport crags in North Wales, Peak district or elsewhere? I climb in the low-mid 7's and she climb in the low 6's

Cheers!

Rob
In reply to Robheirene:

Castle Inn Quarry, above Colwyn Bay, is a good start for 6's, and is very easy access (you can belay from your car)

Pen Trwyn and other crags on the Great Orme have plenty of 6s and 7s.

 AlanLittle 01 Jun 2015
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

> Best sport climbing spots in North Wales/ UK


???

Pleasant enough little crag. But best sport climbing in the UK?


That's more like it
 rockcat 01 Jun 2015
In reply to AlanLittle:

Pen Trwyn is great for the higher grades but isn't much good if you climb in the low 6's as is required: Best sport crags in North Wales for low-mid 7's and low 6's? Penmaen Head (60 routes) is an obvious choice and fits the criteria. Llanddulas Cave (73 routes) is another. Generally, the A55 crags offer a lot of choice and much convenience for these grades.
In reply to rockcat:

Don't forget the slate. That has probably the biggest numbers of lower 6s and low to mid 7s in close proximity.

Also Penmaenbach is worth a visit. I think all the 7as have now been downgraded to 6c+ so maybe no 7s left there now but some good lower 6s and an excellent 6c+ (Map of the Problematique). Also it is not far to Noticeboard for a recommended 7b.
OP Robheirene 01 Jun 2015
Great, thanks for the advice all! Very helpful. Pen Trwyn looks amazing, and the other places you suggest all seem pretty close to there.

Thanks


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