Mark Glaister takes a look at this little-known seaside sport climbing venue near the infamous flesh-pot of Western-super-Mare and finds that there is a surprising number of quality clip-ups on offer. Sun, sea, silt and plenty of 7c's!
In reply to tobyfk:
Hi Toby, Mark just sent me this since he is having difficulty browsing at the moment -
"Ha! I wrote this piece before the current guide was out so searched for info and came up with your excellent post. This is where some of the names and bit of info came from. Have actually done the routes over the years and was pleased to put a name to a line (even though it was a bogus one). Hope this sheds a bit of light on why and where I got the info."
In reply to Alan James - UKC: Sorry for the cock up, i meant route 7 "no name" - "Tide Rising" F7c
Matt Ward29 Oct 2004
In reply to Ian Parnell:
that would make a good story now that a guardian of the bold such as your good self has (sadly) moved north. however uz lok'ls loike a bit of urban spice so unlikely to be much support for retro'ing avon without the council's help in drilling big holes/ adding big footholds to bits like upper wall-plenty of old and young uns would oppose retroing.
the cheddar project demonstrates that retro'ing and regearing has taken place hand in hand with recleaning existing trad lines.
It's perhaps worth mentioning that there is also some quite good bouldering at Brean, especially around Cyclops Cave and Bones Chimney. There are some excellent crimpy traverses in these areas. The rock low-down gets well-washed and so is undercut and relatively solid. A shingle landing makes mats optional. I used to live within cycling distance of the place and spent many a happy evening there, getting quite strong fingers for a time.
Brean also has the worlds widest boulder problem: run-up and mantel the wave-like sea defence wall, the same move at any point for >100m!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Don't know of any access problem. It's just that they are protected by limited rotting insitu gear.
Hope to see you Wednesday to learn about your latest crash diet.
Re local ethics..I'm a local and I accept they are totally inconsistent in THEORY. How is it right to retrobolt natural Cheddar and not quarried Avon?
In terms of my own climbing experience what's now going on seems to make some strange sort of sense IN PRACTICE to me. I think Avon would be ruined by retro-bolting, whereas many Cheddar routes had been ruined by being climbed with limited fixed gear which then rotted or became overgrown.
I like keeping trad (place your own gear) as it was, but I'd rather climb properly bolted sport routes than climbs with limited rotting but necessary fixed gear.
The right end of Brean seems to me an area where virtually no trad climbers are going to try on-sight repeats because of the state of the fixed protection. If the first ascentionists give permission, then I think they'd be "better" as sport climbs.
Areas such as Fairy Cave Quarry have avoided the dilemma by being developed with a no fixed gear ethic..a great development in my view.