UKC

/ Burgundy area

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NIGBEE on 11 Jun 2018

I am going to the Burgundy area of France near Dijon armed with the Jingo Wobbly guide in a couple of weeks. Lots of the crags look good but does anyone have any recommendations for "must visit" crags? Will be bumbling around at 5's and low 6's happy with any rock type (granite or limestone according to the guide) and will be there for 2 weeks so can visit quite a few if they are all brilliant.

Thanks in advance

S11 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to NIGBEE:

The obvious and famous crags like Fixin and Saffres are good with plenty to go at and you should visit but a couple of lesser known crags are worth a look, I would suggest Chambolle-Musigny and Mont Rome Chateau (more for the situation and the views). An absolute must-not-miss, for me, would be Vieux-Chateau (granite) beautiful location and lovely climbing. A crag I would not recomend is Geligny, did not enjoy. Unless the bolting on many crags has been improved then a clip stick would be useful.

Alan Rubin - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to NIGBEE:

I would plan on it being quite hot during the time period that you will be there--possibly warm enough to rule out climbing in the sun. That was the situation when we visited Saussois and Saffres a number of years ago. Fortunately a couple of the days had sufficient cloud cover to make things tolerable. At Saussios, Rochers de Parc has considerable tree cover which also helped, but the main crags are fully exposed to the sun. Fortunately there are plenty of other great attractions in Burgundy for those days when it is just too hot to climb--or even when it isn't.

andyflem on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to NIGBEE:

We have been specifically to Burgundy twice now and are heading back there again at the end of the month, climbing similar grades to yourself. Excellent place. On my experience would recommend Vieux- Chateau, Cormot, Remigny, Culles-Les-Roches and Vergisson. Hauteroche looks appealing but not been there as yet, maybe this time.

 

Jim 1003 - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to andyflem:

Hauteroche is good, some routes are shady...

Vieux chateau is also shady on some routes... 

James Gilbert on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to NIGBEE:

Another vote for Vieux-Château, really nice granite. Hauteroche is good but be aware that, as with most crags in Burgundy, the routes tend to be undergraded and less liberally bolted than the typical French crag.

I'd recommend a clip stick, and also don't forget the corkscrew!

 

NIGBEE on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to all

 

Thanks folks. Have heard about the bolting/grading and have ordered a clipstick ready.

The recommendations are some of the crags I had earmarked so that's good.

 

 

SDM on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to NIGBEE:

And another vote for Vieux-Chateau. Les Gués de Dun was our other favourite granite crag. On the limestone, Hauteroche and Cormot were great (don't go to Cormot with a car with low ground clearance, my passenger had to sit in the boot to stop us grounding every 10 metres). Mont Rome was nice for the views and for some peace and quiet on weekends, not that anywhere was busy. Bouilland was nice but don't go to the main area on a hot day or you will really suffer. The granite crags are totally different to the limestone in both setting and climbing style so definitely check out both.

While some routes were very runout, most were tamer than I was expecting. You can always take a few nuts or cams if you wanted to reduce the runouts. Be aware that Jingo Wobbly clearly hadn't climbed a lot of the lines because their information on some routes was nonsense. It's pretty easy to find your way around, most route names are written on the rock and you can usually tell what the bolting is like from the ground. Don't rely on the guide for route lengths or number of draws needed.

There was a lot of rebolting and new routing going on at Hauteroche when we were there a few years ago so the guide may be a bit out of date. Some of the routes around L'Action Directe were poorly bolted (and not very good) but the rest of the crag was fine.

One crag I wouldn't recommend was Melin. Think of a dustier, chossier version of Raven Tor but with poor bolting and some dodgy lower offs. We ended up traversing to other routes rather than lowering on some of them. After about 4 routes, we gave up and went somewhere better.

Fruit on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to NIGBEE:

As all say Vieux Chatteaux, great crag. Also at the grade you mention try Remigny, you used to be able to get a more complete topo from the nearby restaurant 


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