UKC

Calpe or somewhere else for Autumn sun rock starting 17 October?

Over the years we have been to the Calanques, Mont St Victoire,  Ariege, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Buis les Baronnes, Orpierre, Kalymnos and Croatia last year.

It has been suggested that we go to Calpe starting 17 October for a week.

We climb in the 4,5,6 grades and I last went to Calpe 20 years ago.

1/ What is Calpe like these days, is all polished to hell or are there new crags, decent routes climbs to explore?

2/ If not Calpe, where would you suggest bearing in mind some of our party enjoy the sun!

Thanks

I went to calpe with a group of friends in Feb last year and we are returning there in two weeks time. Most of our group were climbing 4's 5's and low 6 and there was plenty of good routes to go at. Had a good couple of days on Toix Oest and also visited Alcalali and Sella and only at the older low grade routes at Sella was polish a problem. Had a great day scrambling along the Bernia ridge as well.

There's such an abundance of good rock in your grades in the Calpe area, you'll find something.  We base our group in Calpe, and usually start at Toix, which isn't polished if you've climbed at Portland.  I've not blamed any polished Toix for my poor climbing.

Within an hour or so drive you've got Echo Valley, Font d'axia and also Alcalali - which was polished in parts.

Mid-October to mid-November is the perfect time to climb the Anti-Atlas mountains.  It's mostly trad climbing but the weather is more reliable than the med at that time of year.  I'm off there next month and will hopefully benefit from slightly longer days

I went November before last, it was utterly excellent. Definitely on the adventurous side of things but utterly amazing!

Thanks for the tip about Morocco. I am usually a trad man but my climbing has been severely restricted over the last few years due to trapped nerve. Definitely looking to stick to bolts at the moment.

What we call the Costa Blanca area  (inc Calpe) has been transformed by local crag development. Few if any of the new, modern crags are in the Rockfax guide, so there remains at least 20 new crags for you to go at if you are going by Rockfax info, none of which are polished . You will need the new Levante Climbs South guide. 

That said, I would rate Leonidio, Greece as an exceptional October destination, with Coast Blanca better mid-winter.

John C