/ Car-free sport in Europe

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george_r19 02 Feb 2020

I'm hoping to climb somewhere in Europe in April but won't have access to a car, does anyone know any good sport crags that you can access by foot/public transport?

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silhouette 02 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Calanques, Toulon area, Monaco area, El Chorro though many faces may be too hot. I'm not familiar with Orpierre but I gather the sectors may be walkable from the village. Teverga maybe. I am not sure.

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Al Randall 02 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Kalymnos.  The quality of the climbing is superb.  Flight to Koz, 10 minute taxi across Koz to ferry, 1/2 hour ferry to Pothia, 10 minute Taxi to Massouri.  Some of the most memorable climbs I have ever done, in 55 years, are on Kalymnos.

Al

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TobyA 02 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

It's a long time ago but once I took the Eurolines bus from London towards Nice, but got off at Sisteron and climbed there. Hitched on to Orpierre and climbed there. And then hitched on via Gap to the Ecrin and climbed there before I think hitching back to Gap and picking up the return bus to the UK from there. It was really easy to hitch, although we were a couple, so got lifts from lots of women who I doubt would have stopped for me on my own or a male friend and me. Having your rope on top of your bag so everyone knows you're a climber probably helps too.

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silhouette 02 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

...and there's always Portland.

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tjekel 02 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19: .. Orgon. If you camp, it is 5-15' to the crag. Opierre is fine once you are there, but much more dificult to get to. 

Each of Collias, Seynes & Russan. 

Post edited at 17:05
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Cellinski 03 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Have a look at Interlaken (e.g. Neuhaus, Lehn, Luegibrüggli, Schmocken, Brüggetli, Harder, Wilderswil), all accessible either on foot or by bus. A train ride brings you to Meiringen which has further crags that are accessible (e.g. Rotsteini, Lammi, Staldenfluh)

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george_r19 04 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Thanks for your advice everyone :D looking at El Chorro at the moment. Are sport multi-pitches common in Europe?

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Stein 05 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

I can only speak for Switzerland, you have a lot of sport multi pitches here, and the whole country has good (but expensive) public transport. April will be too soon most likely to climb higher up in the mountains, but north/west should be fine (Jura).

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SteveX 05 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

El Chorro, is a good option. Train from Malaga, then loads of crags within walking distance. Just make sure you do a supermarket shop at Malaga as once in El Chorro you are a bit stuck, unless you can bum a lift.

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KrisNash 05 Feb 2020
In reply to tjekel:

When I was a student, many years ago, took the TGV to avignon and then local train to the village 15 minute walk to the campsite and you're there.

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tjekel 05 Feb 2020
In reply to KrisNash:

Exactly. You have a full weeks climbing at the doorstep, and should you want a different place, you can easily get to Eyguieres or Aureille by public transport or hitching. Avignon, st Remy and a few nice villages just around the corner for halfdays off. 

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JLS 06 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

>"Europe...April...access by foot/public transport"

There is nowhere better than Kalymnos.

However it may be at the wrong end of Europe depending on where you are coming from. As others have said El Chorro is a good option, but the village is fairly sleepy and doesn't have the facilities of Masouri on Kalymnos.

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Presley Whippet 06 Feb 2020

In reply to

Be wary of the el chorro recommendations. Whilst it is possible without a car, it is also quite limiting. 

There a very few trains per day in/out of the village so it could take a full day to get to or from the airport. The nearest supermarket is in Alora, another poorly serviced train ride away, so potentially another climbing day lost as provision in the village are limited. 

Climbing wise, some climbing can be accessed on easily on foot but because of its roadside, long established nature it tends to be showing its age. 

Mid distance climbing is going to cost you a couple of routes a day in climbing time. 

Having a car opens up places like valle de abdjalais for an easy day, el torcal for something different and probably most importantly desplomlandia if it gets too hot. 

I cannot see that the price differential between a hire car and the rail fare is worth the inconveniences it incurs. 

Kalymnos is the place to go if you want to be car free (you will end up hiring a scooter though) 

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racodemisa 06 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Siurana and Margalef are very good places to go.The latter has with a bit of (very nice)walking(30-60mins) a lot of crags accessible by foot.No  worse than the walk to say Makinodromo in Chorro...And it has some of the most extensive shadey climbing I can think of.Grade  range is really about 6b and up.It  is relatively remote though.Not like going to kalymnos or Chorro.

Post edited at 17:18
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Niceboy 09 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Fly to Nice - plenty of options available by public transport eg St Jeannet is a pleasant village and has both single and multi pitch routes.

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tlouth7 10 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

How about Ariege?

Not sure if there is good multipitch low down if the weather is bad but there is some stunning stuff higher up.

We flew to Toulouse and got the train to Ax les Thermes last April, then got a taxi up to Dent D'Orlu. Other places in the area are probably more accessible ( Sinsat looked stunning from the train).

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Bulls Crack 10 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

We spent 10 days at Geyikbayiri without a car after getting a taxi from the airport. If it's too hot you're a bit limited otherwise loads to do. 

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MischaHY 12 Feb 2020
In reply to george_r19:

Have you got a mountain bike you could take on the train? This would open up loads of places.


Frankenjura for example is very easy to access by train and then there are endless crags within a short cycle of the popular campgrounds (15-30mins depending on where you want to, obviously more if you want to go further afield). Camping here is very central to popular crags: http://www.gasthof-eichler.de/ plus you'll be able to find people with cars to climb with if necessary. 

Chorro is very doable without a car though and temps are fine in April. The best crag is Makinodromo anyway and your best bet with that one is to walk in and bivvy for a few days old skool style. Cheap as well! 

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