/ Chulilla: Logistics
Planning to got to Chulilla late October, flying in to Valencia. Hoping the UKCHivemind can fill in the gaps left after some half-arsed Googling.
1. Is hiring a car worth it? Valencia is only an hour away, but will a hire car be necessary/convenient in terms of getting to the crags once already in Chulilla? (Also, it's not clear if I paid all my Spanish driving fines, so not 100% sure I can even hire a car in Spain right now.)
2. I've emailed the El Altico climbers hostel to see if they have space - if they don't, other recommendations for places to stay?
3. Best crags for a party operating in the 6a-7a+ range? (I've read the Destination Guide on here, but all further input welcome.)
4. Anything else worth being aware of?
If you can get there without a car then you don’t really need one once there. But, I would recommend going to Montanejos in combination with Chulilla, you’ll probably appreciate a car for that.
Took the bus from Valencia to Chullila years ago, think it as a direct route, left from main bus station in Valencia, didn't use a car at Chulilla.
1. You don’t need a car once there for the main crags.
2. There’s so many airbnbs there.
3. Tough one, for the most part the sub 7a stuff is a bit dotted around. Oasis area and surrounding sections are ace, as is the whole Pared de Enfrente, lots of 7a, the odd lower thing.
For more easier grades check out Peneta (plenty of easier stuff but not always as good as the main crags), Fantasia (car useful) and Cherales (car definitely useful).
Thanks all, most appreciated!
How long does it take to get to Oasis etc from town without a car?
Being lazy I always always drive around but probably about 40 mins from the village?
Easy to hitch around though to one of the parking spots then it's more like 15 mins.
A few thoughts mostly reinforcing earlier comments
I would persevere with El Altico - great hospitality friendly scene and perhaps the best view from a toilet window anywhere
There's SO much climbing but Pared De Enfrente and Oasis are probably the pick of the bunch and as good as ANYWHERE
You don't NEED a car but they seem to be so cheap out of season it's almost rude not to hire one and it opens up the opportunity for a highly recommended side trip to Montanejos eg
https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/02/28/montanejos-laberinto-de-los-dragones/ as well as flexibility in case the weather craps out.
Thanks Dom, most helpful indeed.
El Altico got back to me so looks like we will indeed be staying with them, which is great. I look forward to using the, er, facilities...
What is the accommodation at El Atico? Is it bunk rooms or small private rooms or a mixture?
To hijack this thread slightly, any beta on Montanejos would be much appreciated. Is it all old skool techy climbing, is it good, etc?
Hiya - it's a mixture of both - the private rooms carry a small premium I think, and I guess you need to book early
Montanejos was ahead of the curve in Spanish sport climbing and then seems to have fallen out of fashion partly due to a reputation for "old school" grading However there has been a ton of off the radar development in recent years and the newer sectors we've climbed on have been outstanding. The latest guidebook even flags which sectors are " old school "
The LABERINTO DE LOS DRAGONES sector is the pick of the bunch that we've discovered so far https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/03/01/back-to-the-dragons-labyrinth/
and here's a couple more nearby
You should find more info if you search the blog www.rockaroundtheworld.co.uk for Montanejos
Whilst in the area you could also check out another tremendous but little known venue https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/03/02/araya-what-a-find/
Can I get in with a hijack too... what are the approaches like do you think a big dog would be able to get there ok? got three months in Spain coming up and will definitely be heading to chulilla so some near by other destinations would be ace!
I don't remember any of the approaches being over-long (Araya was maybe 40mins) but take a look at the individual blog posts and I'm bound to have whinged about any major trecks. I usually try to include GPS coordinates or a map trace if it's tricky to find. Nothing to trouble your dog, I'm sure
Nice one Dom
Emma Twyford has become the first British woman to climb 9a with a redpoint of The Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales. Emma's ascent is only the third of this route, first climbed in 1996 by Neil Carson.