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Climbing in Mauritius and Reunion

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 Pippa Chalk 30 Jul 2020

It looks like I'll be moving to Mauritius for a few years and I need to climb! All I have found from internet searches are guides for an experience day. I gather there is a guide book for reunion but can't find any info on where to buy one. I have also seen mention of sport routes in Mauritius but not idea where. Any tips on where I might get my climbing fix out there would be very appreciated. Bonus points for DWS routes!

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 Jon Read 30 Jul 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

I've got some French mags with articles on climbing on both islands, I'll try to dig them out. There is definitely a reasonable amount of development on Reunion.

Is this any help? https://www.ffme974.org/topo-escalade-reunion-falaise/

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In reply to Pippa Chalk:

I suggest writing to Caroline Ciavaldini.  She's a well known climber from Reunion. Might be able to give you a few pointers. 

http://onceuponaclimb.co.uk/

Also on Fb.

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In reply to becauseitsthere:

Couldn't you just also google 'Ondra ****-off big granite wall in Reunion', or am I misremembering? 

I had the impression that some classic 8 pitch 7a there was on the global ticklist of moneyed Westerners; in fact I thought Simon Cox, then of this parish, did it some twenty years ago. 

Perhaps those were Madagascar. And also not very helpful reflections, really.

Anyway, here is your suggestion CC in action, although the OP may be looking for something more modestly graded. 

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/zembrocal-new-multi-pitch-rock-climb-on-reunion-island.html

jcm

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 paul79 30 Jul 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

Hi Pippa, I spent about 3 years on Mauritius around 15 years ago, at that time there wasn't a lot of climbing, certainly not established venues (there's a lot of rock, but lots is poor quality or with access issues).  We climbed some bolted routes round Phare d'Albion (West Coast), 3 or 4 routes from memory (not highest quality).  We also ended up top roping some bridge abutments.  There was an old very short via ferratta on Pieter Both too.  Around that time the 'experience a day climbing' organisations put a few bolts in above some of the big waterfalls (photo of Paw Paw Waterfall in my gallery) and they had fairly recently equipped Phare d'Albion, but there certainly wasn't a significant local climbing scene there.  Things might have improved a bit in recent times, if they carried on developing bits.  If I was going back I'd get in touch with the local companies and see if they can give me any leads (or, more likely, I'd spend the weekends Scuba diving).  Reunion, I only visited, but is lots better, well established.  

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 johncb 30 Jul 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk: I go to Mauritius fairly regularly and there doesn't seem to be a lot of climbing about.

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 Trangia 30 Jul 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

I went to Mauritius a few years ago and couldn't find any climbing. There are a very few walking trails which are quite steep in places, but the interior is so heavily vegetated by jungle that it's very difficult to go off path. The mountains in the centre of the island are spectacular and very imposing but covered by jungle and my plans to try and find a way up some of them were completely frustrated by the dense vegetation. Only had a week to explore and it was impossible to find a route to the base let alone attempt to climb up one!!

The only coastal areas I visited are flat with lots of beaches, and excellent snorkelling in the lagoons behind the reef, but no rock features. Didn't find any coastal cliffs, but I didn't visit the northern coast.

I haven't been to Reunion, but understand that there are better opportunities for both hiking and climbing.

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 fenski 30 Jul 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

I can’t advise on the climbing, but if you are going to be living there, learn to Kitesurf.

its probably a bit busy nowadays, but world class....

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 petegunn 30 Jul 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

Hi Pippa

Its very rare but if you can find a copy of Mountains of Mauritius, A climbers Guide (1976) has all of the main mountains listed in it. My partners mum is from Mauritius and like others have said there is only a tiny climbing scene there.  The ridges although low in height are alpine in character, sharp and good fun.

Rock climbing as in sport and trad is very limited but the scrambles are superb. 

If you look on the map I've put a few basic details on ukc with a few of the sport climbs around Albion lighthouse and a couple of the summit scrambles.

Reunion has a climbing scene and there is more info to be had on that island.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/pieter_both-23510

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/les_trois_mamelles-23537

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/albion_lighthouse_crag-23503

Post edited at 23:00
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 nickcanute 31 Jul 2020
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 Pinch'a'salt 01 Aug 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

Can't help with Mauritius but there is plenty of climbing on Reunion - getting detail might be tricky if you don't read French though as most of the sites I looked at when heading there were (understandably) French.

I passed through Reunion on a trip about 10 years ago - didn't climb when there in the end apart from one bouldering session on the West coast on some amazing overhanging rough black rock right over the sandy beach - have had a quick look but can't track down the name as yet...

This : http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Z_N_mhd4mY8/SuH9xxwZCnI/AAAAAAAABzU/WgnOJ3GLw6Y/s320/IMGP1942.jpg

The canyoning is world class if you do head over that way!

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 petegunn 01 Aug 2020
In reply to nickcanute:

Hi nick

Please could you tag your photos onto the crag pages that I have listed for Pieter Both and the Albion cliffs cheers

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 petegunn 01 Aug 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

Little video here of Pieter Both:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hOshkYBbxvk

There are lots of photos of the Albion Lighthouse cliffs on here as well:

https://m.facebook.com/TheRockerrockClimbingMauritius/ 

And if you message them.you might be able to find out more info, looks like they have added some routes on La Pouce as well.

Post edited at 11:17
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 nickcanute 03 Aug 2020
In reply to petegunn:

Tagged, as well as another pic of Pieter Both. I had some great pics on La Pouce but the memory card corrupted sadly..

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 yamithrain 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Pippa Chalk:

I have been to La Reunion last year and I can confirm that you can buy the Reunion guidebooks in several bookshops on the island. I think they were out of stock of the rope climbing one (it seems to be still the case) but there were several copies of the bouldering one.


Here is the FFME page about where you can get hold of them:
https://www.ffme974.org/topo-escalade-reunion-falaise/

If you are really keen on climbing there is a private facebook group where you could ask advices (keeping in mind that's a French speaking group).
https://www.facebook.com/groups/656788157786540

Post edited at 12:03
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