UKC

I'm thinking of heading up to the NE when the nice weather returns. Easy climbing may be on the menu, but my experience of climbing in The County has normally left me chastened and licking my wounds. Now, as age and decrepitude and a partner easily put off by things she finds hard take their toll I am looking for easy stuff that really is easy. Having had to aid a V Diff at Crag Lough a decade ago (when I could still climb a bit) I am wondering if there really are places in Northumberland where the grades of easy routes do compare with most other parts of the country. Berryhill is one that I have heard might fit the bill. Where else can be recommended?

Kyloe Out is pretty fair at the grades too.

Dave

Likewise, have heard good things about a Berryhill. I haven’t climbed there though plan to at some point soon. 

Post lockdown, all that you state about climbing in Northumberland remains the case for me, if not even more so. Love climbing there but blimey, it’s a sobering experience. 

Simonside is supposed to be the best beginners crag in the county. Not sure that will indicate easy routes though.

If you find out Rog ... please tell me!

I did a diff at Berryhill that was good and was a diff.  I think it was Reiver's Way.

If you go to Berryhill, I'd recommend these in the sub-VS category:

Slab Crack D

The Flutings VD either straight up or out via the arete on the right

Eastern Arete MS - looks intimidating but big holds - a quality route

Slanting Crack MS just left of Eastern Arete is OK too.

Hi Diddle Diddle HS goes through steep ground on big holds

If you head to Kyloe Out, these:

Christmas Tree Arete D is pretty easy apart from the first move

There are 4 short routes at VD/S  very close together- Eeny Meeny Miny and Mo - take your pick!

Flake Crack S is accurately described as a classic of the grade

Back towards the start of the crag, Cloister Wall is a great route but a bit of a sandbag at HS

Saints Progress on the first wall you reach is a nice 4b, feels a bit bold at the mid point

Simonside does have some easier stuff that's fair at the published grades its a longer walk in, but great views.

Great Wanney tempts the unwary when it comes to grades - ask anyone who has done Boundary Corner when it was graded Diff. Central Gully East is another joke, but Jacob's Ladder is a proper VDiff.

Hope this helps

Dave

<Many thanks for that Dave. That's really useful. Hope we get some weather soon.....

And we certainly won't be going to Great Wanney again. Thanks for the warning but we already knew! Backed off half way up Jacob's Ladder, proper V Diff or not!

One of my very first ever leads.  Imagine my joy when, as I committed to that awkward move to get over the block, my wife piped up (with a certain degree of glee, I must say) "ooh look, your gear's come out".  Yup, thanks for that love of my life.

All the Northumberland crags are small gems, one of the frustrations being that each only has a couple of good routes at the lower grades. Moving from crag to crag, doing a couple of routes on each would give your arms a chance to recover between routes.

Corbys is a personal favourite.

if at Berry Hill, Goats crag is nearby and a nice spot with some easy stuff.

The Great Whanney VDiffs are all worthwhile.

Back Bowden, Bowden and Kyloe out would make a good day with a few routes on each.

As others have said you could do a day linking up a few crags

Bowden with:

Castle Crack (HVD)

Russet Groove (VD)

Kyloe out:

Christmas Tree Arete (VD)

Flake Crack (S 4b)

If heading up to Simonside these are worth doing:

Great Chimney (D)

Innominate Crack (VD)

Flake Chimney VD

Henhole Crags

Might be worth a look as there are quite a few routes in the Diff - S range and up to 30m in length. The walk in isn't steep just long. 

The Fluttings at Berryhill is probably the best VD in the county. 

There I've said it. 

If you ignore Castle Crack, Russet Groove and the 4 at Great Wanney...

Whilst I do really like russet groove, it's short compared to the Fluttings and your in a much better position on the Fluttings. 

Thanks again to all those replying. Hope to get up there soon. Even if we don't do much climbing there's lovely cycling on quiet roads, good overnight park-ups and nice walks. We're quite easily pleased these days of our dotage.

Back Bowden Door, my favourite Northumbrian crag - intriguing rock and typical lakes grades.

Dorine

Thanks. I've long looked at this crag and wanted to go, but it's never happened for me. The pictures I've seen are very appealing. Not sure I'll persuade the other half of the team though.