/ Climbing in Rio

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Petar Samkov 11 Jun 2019

Alright then 

Looks like I’ll be in Rio for 10 days end of this month (21-30) and would love to do a route or two on some of the walls around. Wondering if anyone Has climbed there .

1. Route recommendation- looking into some of the long ones for sure, don’t really care about what difficulty ( can OS 6c/+ or e2/3) but really happy to get on something easier or harder. 

2. What’s my chance finding a partner in Rio (climbing one, already going with a girlfriend). 

3. Long shot really but if anyone is planning to go in the same period would be great to pear up. 

4. Any recommendations for places to visit that are not on the standard tourist attractions. 

Cheers everyone and have great week . 

aostaman 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Petar Samkov:

I was there last year. I climbed with https://www.facebook.com/didi.stars.7

He was very good, his wife is English and he speaks quite well. You'll almost certainly need a guide for just a short stay as the guidebooks are all in Portugese, and even then finding the routes would be a challenge. As for finding a local non guide, I'd say your chances were short to nil, see if you get any other replies here.

It's pretty much all sport climbing, but the bolts are very well spaced to say the least. It's also very hot and humid so you need to carry quite a lot of water.

You've got a week. Sugar Loaf was great (climbing aside), Christ the Redeemer was just a crowded tourist gig, but you've got to do it. Urca is quite nice and very (in Rio terms) safe as there is a huge military base there.

rpc 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Petar Samkov:

Just came back from a 2 week climbing trip to Rio + vicinity.  I second what aostaman says above:  if you only have a short time, you’ll get much more out of the trip with some hired local help.  My wife & I hired Didi & his company (called Dia Lindo, they have a FB page & website:  https://www.dialindo.com/) to arrange all the logistics for us but to let us climb stuff on our own.  We could not have been happier with their service and the amount of climbing we were able to get in.  All the Dia Lindo guys are very nice, professional, punctual – really, cannot say enough good things about them.  It was a fantastic climbing trip thanks in large part to their efforts.

As for climb recommendations, we did the standard circuit in Rio (Italianos on Sugarloaf, K2 on Corcovado, and this scenic traverse on Pedra da Gavea) + 3 classics outside the city that we were really gunning for:  Dedo de Deus (2h drive out of Rio), Agulha do Diabo (same drive + a long approach and likely an overnighter) & East Face of Pico Maior In Salinas (3+ h drive out of Rio).  The first two are these incredible spires with memorable summits; the last one is a 700 meter granite face with ~16 pitches of joyous climbing.  The Rio climbs are all very nice but it was really those 3 latter climbs that stand out for us.  Feel free to ping me if you have any more specific questions.  I should have some photos of the climbs up on our site in a week or so (chossclimbers.com).

Post edited at 16:38
Petar Samkov 15 Jun 2019
In reply to Petar Samkov:

Thanks everyone for the info, really appreciated . Let’s see, hopefully I’ll manage to sneak a day out.... not sure about all this nonclimbing holiday, never done it : D

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