UKC

Climbing in Victoria under threat

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 Rog Wilko 14 Oct 2019

Although it isn't hot news in the UK, you may be aware that there is a life and death struggle going on at the present over access to crags in Victoria, particularly in the Grampians National Park and potentially at the world famous Mt Arapiles.

In short, we seem to have Parks Victoria (the arm of government responsible for all protected land) arbitrarily banning climbing over huge areas where there may be some conflict between climbing and the rights of traditional land owners (new name for aboriginal groups). 

The climbers, through the ACAV, are expecting to have to take Parks to law, which will be very expensive. If you would like to donate, or find out more, here are some useful links:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/QldClimb/permalink/3286867261386594/?__xts_...

https://vicmembers.climb.org.au/donate

 Rob Parsons 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Neither of those links contains much context or detail. Are you able to point us to more detailed background information? You mention Arapiles for example. Is there a serious threat of bans there?

Thanks.

Post edited at 11:40
OP Rog Wilko 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Rob Parsons:

Hi Rob,

Fair comment. I have contacted Simon Carter on FB to suggest he might like to provide some information as my knowledge of the situation is very limited. 

OP Rog Wilko 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

And yes, there is a real chance of bans being extended to The Mount.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

We've had a thread on this before a few months ago. 

The information provided seems a bit one sided - stuff I found when searching about the issue suggests climbers knowingly cleaned and bolted routes on protected sacred sites so now permissive access to lots of traditional sites is being withdrawn as a result. 

OP Rog Wilko 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

>  seems a bit one sided - stuff I found when searching about the issue suggests climbers knowingly cleaned and bolted routes on protected sacred sites so now permissive access to lots of traditional sites is being withdrawn as a result. 

There is no doubt that a few people have behaved rather thoughtlessly, but I believe that all claims made of damage to such sites by climbers have been disproved. One classic case showed a photo of a bolt which, it later turned out, had been placed on a wall of native art by Vic Parks.

 onsight 14 Oct 2019
In reply to Rob Parsons:

> Neither of those links contains much context or detail. Are you able to point us to more detailed background information? You mention Arapiles for example. Is there a serious threat of bans there?

Yes there is a threat of bans at Arapiles, how serious is impossible to know, but there is going to be a comprehensive cultural heritage study done there over the coming months -- and no outcomes from those have so far been good.

Here's my earlier article from some months go that give a lot of background.
https://www.onsight.com.au/2019/04/park-victorias-dirty-war-on-rock-climber...

It's old, I'm writing a new one now. There's also a lot of info here:
https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/

OP Rog Wilko 15 Oct 2019
In reply to onsight:

Thanks Simon. I hope many will find the time to read all this and maybe contribute a few bucks. Many Brits have climbed or would like to climb in The Gramps or at The Mount (Arapiles), and I'm sure they'll be particularly concerned.

Is the petition still open?

J1234 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

"Wealthy post colonials form pressure group and try and marshal money to defeat interests of indigenous peoples" just another view.
What would your view be if a group of aboriginals formed a pressure group to paint some dream art on a Lakeland crag. A stiff letter to the Westmoreland Gazette I would bet.

Not saying you is wrong, just that there is more than one perspective.

OP Rog Wilko 15 Oct 2019
In reply to J1234:

> What would your view be if a group of aboriginals formed a pressure group to paint some dream art on a Lakeland crag. A stiff letter to the Westmoreland Gazette I would bet.

I may be a bit dumb but I can't see how this has any bearing on this issue. None of the claims made about climbers damaging aboriginal art sites have been proven.

 Rob Parsons 15 Oct 2019
In reply to J1234:

> "Wealthy post colonials form pressure group and try and marshal money to defeat interests of indigenous peoples" just another view. ...

> Not saying you is wrong, just that there is more than one perspective.

That's just a cartoonish mischaracterization.

Certainly in Australia now there is a justified and necessary effort to reestablish rights for the native people of that continent. But what isn't at all clear to me yet (and what I hope to find out by reading the various links posted above - for which thanks) is what is exacerbating the current problems referred to here. An initial impression is that it's overzealous officiating by Parks Victoria which might be causing the problem, rather than, for example, pressure from those who represent the native population. Is the same issue arising in other states (e.g. in the Blue Mountains), for example?

Post edited at 15:06
OP Rog Wilko 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Rob Parsons:

It does appear that you're right on the overzealousness. One story is that it all was set off by one Grampians ranger who nurses a hatred of climbers and acted ultra vires. Then people further up the pecking order unwisely supported him and have now reached a point where common sense has no chance of prevailing and people in high-up positions can't see a way to back down. 


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