UKC

Cocentaina

This will be our very local crag for our upcoming CB trip in February, but I'm struggling to get consistent/complete information.

I've managed to get hold of a copy of the newish guidebook Levante Climbs South, but it only shows the Mas de la Penya buttresses, which it says are all bird-banned from 1 Feb (contradicting UKC, which says only one buttress is banned, and that from either Feb 1 or March 1 depending where on the page you look). The other sector 1-2km further right, Balconet, is (presumably) unaffected by the bird ban, but isn't included in Levante Climbs, and UKC only has 7 routes (out of some 50 routes, according to the blog rockaroundtheworld.co.uk). A link to topos appears on the UKC page, and has been recommended on previous threads (escalaralcoiaicomtat), but the link specific to Cocentaina doesn't seem to work.

Can anyone help with reliable information on the dates and extent of the bird ban and/or point me to some topos (or just a list of climbs) at Sector Balconet?

Many thanks.

In reply to bpmclimb:

The Lobo plus book has some more info on cocentainia and alcoi. I think it's the 'sud' one. 

In reply to bpmclimb:

Try this link for balcony https://escalaralcoiaicomtat.centrexcursionistalcoi.org/sectors-balconet.ht...

https://escalaralcoiaicomtat.centrexcursionistalcoi.org/balconet.html

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/01/19/cocentaina-sector-balconet/

The following gives some restrictions for the wider area but says nothing about mas de la Penya https://www.valenciaclimb.com/regulations/ I know that some sectors around Vallada have some limited bans (or bits of sectors banned) so this is not an exhaustive. The general practice seems to be that the first bolt(s) are removed and I suspect there might even be signage at Mas De la Penya. 

Great base if you are near Cocentaina and heaps to get at, enjoy

In reply to Neil Morrison:

Same website (https://escalaralcoiaicomtat.centrexcursionistalcoi.org) has topo for Penya  Frare just up the road at Muro de Alcoy, which is worth a visit. Balconet is good and has had some routes recently  re bolted so nice mix of old and new school styles.

In reply to is2:

And Jonathan Emett has recently done some of the stuff at Penya de Frare. Looks good and sunny on the single pitch stuff. We had a decent day here https://www.celaontinyent.es/actividades-realizadas/vias-de-escalada/448-vi... Nothing special but shady so handy when hot

In reply to Neil Morrison:

Thanks for the working links, really helpful. Yes, we're staying in Cocentaina - up the hill near the castle, so Balconet is walking distance

In reply to bpmclimb: Super place to stay if it is with Antonio, his cooking is excellent. Have a good trip. 

In reply to bpmclimb:

Do you climb 6b+?  If so, have a crack at Gollum on Balconet

Not a sandbag btw - it’s perfectly safe...

(but I will buy you a pint - no, dash it - I’ll buy you 2 pints if you on sight it!).

Enjoy your trip - it’s a great area. And Frare is well worth a visit, as others have said.

Cheers, Neil

In reply to Neil Foster:

I'll put it firmly on the list, and report back