UKC

Cornwall or Pembroke?

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 Suncream 15 Oct 2019

Looking to get away for a few days this weekend and early next week. So far, the forecast for both Pembroke and Cornwall is similar, a few nice days but also some showers. I've never been to either, are they nice at this time of year? Is there much seepage? How long does the rock take to dry?

If you had to pick one, and the forecasts were both a bit showery, where would you go?

 Dave Garnett 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Tough choice if you've never been to either.  Pembroke is impressive, has some brilliant routes and generally dries pretty quickly, but pretty much all of it, north and south, is tidal and susceptible to big seas.

Cornwall is more varied, has some excellent landward crags if the seas are rough, and (for me anyway) has a certain magic that somehow Pembroke doesn't quite have.  Further to drive though.

 Andy2 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Watch out for firing restrictions in Pembroke - e.g. Tuesday 23/10 to Thursday 25/10 you won't be able to access Range East.

Cornwall is probably better for routes below E1.

OP Suncream 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Andy2:

> Cornwall is probably better for routes below E1.

I hear Pembroke grades are pretty soft though? How about Cornwall?

1
 stevieb 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Andy2:

> Cornwall is probably better for routes below E1.

Yes, I’d agree with this.

I would assume Cornish granite also has better friction when wet. 

A lot of the best easier routes in Cornwall are multi pitch, but there are alternatives if needed. 

In reply to Suncream:

If your best lead is E1, Cornwall, no question.

jcm

 Phil79 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Flip a coin, they're both great!

I guess Pembroke is more 'compact' (but still huge!) and you could get a lot of mileage in if you stayed at Range East/Bosherton area. If you're climbing E1 or above, there are endless quality lines to go at. Generally quick drying, but can be soapy early in the day. I don't think grades are particularly soft (but then I'm shit!). 

Cornwall you'll have to travel a bit more between crags, but means there are more options on direction/condition). There are loads of classics below HVS. Some crags can seep a bit, but not slow to dry if you have a breeze. Plus there are pasties.

Not sure what forecast is like next week, but it is sodden in Devon/Cornwall ATM.......next week could be more of the same wherever you go?

 Jon Stewart 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Pembroke is more user-friendly, so better for the shorter days this time of year.

But, they're both fantastic, flip a coin.

 Tom Last 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Suncream:

> I hear Pembroke grades are pretty soft though? How about Cornwall?

They have a reputation as being the opposite. Not necessarily true though.

 GrahamD 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Last:

I reckon thet around Vs - E2 Pembroke tends to be on the generous side.  There are exceptions of course !


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