Last year my partner and I spent some time in Cornwall and ticked pretty much all of the classic VS’s (Anvil Chorus, Little Brown Jug, South Face Direct, Diocese) and HS’s (Demo Route, Doorpost, Pegasus). Which were pretty much all fantastic. We’re going back in July, and I think all that’s left in that range is Flannel Avenue, Right Angle, and Sensible Shoes. And Saxon for HVS (which looks very fun).
Am I missing anything? Are there other HVS’s that are particularly worthwhile, or E1’s that are not ”hard for the grade”? Suicide Wall sounds a bit intimidating, but what about Thin Wall Special or Bishop’s Rib?
Saxon is a brilliant route. Enjoy. Rock Dancer to the right at E1.
Carn Barra such as Axis, Ra etc.
Helluva Slab is easier but a lovely first pitch.
Not got lots of knowledge of others, but to respond to the a couple of the ones you mention:
Thin Wall Special is a great combo of slab and steep - the bottom is technical but well protected enough, even without micro gear (I had none); the top is very strenuous and feels extremely stiff at 5a (personally I would swap the tech grades for P1 and P3, but then I am weak with a love of slabs!) Definitely just E1 but not a pushover at that.
Definitely do Saxon, stunning route. Decent gear, nice moves, good climbing just keeps on coming the whole way.
> Definitely do Saxon, stunning route. Decent gear, nice moves, good climbing just keeps on coming the whole way.
And count how many runners you manage to get in on the full 50+ meters 😁 - think I had 16 although some would have been clustered - but it's a long time ago so I may not have remembered exactly.
You had a look at any of the ticklists on here? e.g. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=3423 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=143
Theres tons of really good routes in cornwall off the honeypot crags of bosi, chair ladder and sennen. have you been to carn barra, carn les boel, or any of the other "minor" granite crags on the south coast? well worth a look. land's end too, the long climb is a good day out regardless of the grade. I'd recommend getting the CC guide.
bishops rib is a good route, nothing too tricky as i recall, fairly bang on E1
Astrall Stroll is a cracker, fairly soft for E1 5b in terms of the climbing, but very intimidating exposed and committing. It's not a day out you'll forget
I found thin wall special absolutely desperate (I hate slabs). The step up to the undercut knob felt horrendous.
Great route and you can lace it with gear (I ran out of QDs on the first pitch).
Would highly recommend.
Maybe you had more fun than me on the top pitch then - got pumped out of my mind trying to find the good hold I had found the year before, and when I did latch it, I discovered that a slug had beat me to it!
Ochre Slab (think theres a Vs version)
South face direct
Nameless and paragon, both at Bosi.
Excalibur (HVS 5a) at Carn Les Boel is off the beaten track and is in a lovely spot. St Loy's a nice crag too and Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) is much better than the name might suggest (used to be HVS).
> Astrall Stroll is a cracker, fairly soft for E1 5b in terms of the climbing, but very intimidating exposed and committing. It's not a day out you'll forget
I thought it was hard for E1. I did it the same summer I did The Moon (E3 5c) and thought they were similar routes in style, difficulty and quality.
Thin Wall Special is not an easy E1, but very good. By comparison Suicide Wall is mostly HS with a couple of E1 moves and not that great IMO.
I have a bit of a soft spot for Kittiwake at HVS.
Another vote for The Variety Show (HVS 5a). Nice climb which seems that much easier after you've looked at the jump to get to the Great Zawn and gibbered.
And Suicide Wall (E1 5c) isn't so bad. You'll probably be fine.
Ochre Slab route I VS 4c - has a bizarre but easier than it looks second pitch.
Armchair HVS 5a - worth a go
Zig Zag VS - Excellent!
Venusburg VS - another excellent route
Zennor upper cliff
Rosebud in June HVS 5a is a little cracker and low in the grade
After that you have all the classics at Land's End and Chair Ladder
> At Bosi Thin Wall Special is good (don't be tempted by the Chicken Run unless you are tall.
Chicken run is top end E2. Come off the crux and you will come close to the floor. Not one for an E1 leader stepping up. Memorable though!
> Another vote for The Variety Show (HVS 5a). Nice climb which seems that much easier after you've looked at the jump to get to the Great Zawn and gibbered.
Exactly what I did. Went down there to do Green Cormorant Face (E2 5c), took one look and changed plan. Great suggestion, you get the atmosphere of the zawn without having to really get in too deep. I have done the jump once, for The Dream/Liberator (E3 6a). Oof.
> And Suicide Wall (E1 5c) isn't so bad. You'll probably be fine.
Not the nicest of E1s IMO.
Carn Kenidjack is brilliant and different ot the other granite cliffs.
Highly recommend a visit and you can easily tick off 3 or 4 first class routes there.
Thin Wall Special is one of my all time favourite climbs. I'm an occasional E1 climber (solid VS and most HVS) and didn't find it too bad. spent a bit of time figuring out the crux, but from memory there was a decent ledge to ponder from. The final moves are something else and make for an amazingly exciting finish. Worth it for that I reckon!
> Chicken run is top end E2. Come off the crux and you will come close to the floor. Not one for an E1 leader stepping up. Memorable though!
I’ve certainly never forgotten it!
Lots of great suggestions here, thanks all. We did go to Carn Barra — great spot, very atmospheric as the tide came in with a big sea at sunset. Thought Axis was excellent. Good to know that the HVS’s are worth going back for.
We also had great fun on Land’s End Long Climb (way more interesting than Commando Ridge IMO). Oh yeah and we did Rosebud in June, which was nice and definitely easier than any of the granite VS’s. Nameless I did too but found a bit uneven compared to the other classic VS’s at Bosi…
Astral Stroll looks amazing but I think we might need to be a bit more solid at the grade first. And Suicide Wall puts me off with the talk of dodgy pegs at the crux… and maybe more importantly, with the allegations that it’s overrated.
But anyway, getting very excited to be going back…
Had a great couple of weeks there soon after Lockdown easing...
The Crusader, Bishops Arete, Bishops Rib, Kittiwake, Seal Slab, Pop Will Eat Itself, Je Suis Charlie.
Carn Guthenbrâs: Hairy Cornflake.
Black Carn North: Gelert, Pudsey.
The Muzzle, The Whisker, The Curtain Raiser, Reveille.
Zawn Kellys: American Dream
Aire Point: Aireline, Biggles Flies Undone.
Bosigran: Paradise (P1&2, finish up Nameless P3 - a very good VS/HVS).
Gurnards Head : Shark.
Trewavas Head: William's Chimney, Mascara, Colomen, Avalanche Direct, Foundation & Empire.
The Lizard: anything on Hollywood Walls, Down Under Up Top, Aoetearoa
Carn Gowla: Journey to Ixtlan
Cligga head : Queen Jane (only a diff,but fabulous)
Plus there's loads to go at on the Culm Coast. New CC guidebook due out mid July...ish
>The final moves are something else and make for an amazingly exciting finish. Worth it for that I reckon!
The guide book isn't wrong when it says "wild and engaging moves to finish"
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