UKC

Hey everyone - A friend and I were planning on going to Portland this weekend, but he's been complaining about the cold and rain so we've decided to go to Costa Blanca as the flights and accommodation are cheaper than Portland.

I was climbing in Granada earlier this year and there were loads of single pitch routes close together roughly in the grade range I'd want, so expected the same in Costa Blanca.  I've just got the Rockfax guide and it seems like everything is multi pitch (which neither of us have ever done before, and my friend has only joined me at Southern Sandstone once before, despite doing a lot of indoor lead).

To cut to the chase - Can anyone recommend a good location somwhere between Alicante and Calp that has a lot of good single pitch routes up to about 6a/6a+?  Every list I can find of 'best climbs' seem to be 95% multipitch.

(*if it helps, I've got a 70m rope and more than enough quickdraws/kit).

It's along time since I was over there but are you serious? You could spend your whole time at Sella on virtually one crag and not run out of stuff. Anyway, if you don't want to do multi-pitch just ab/lower off the first stances. Can't recall the name of the excellent 3-pitch route I did at Sella that was about 5+ but that seemed just to go straight up and was easy to get off by abbing back down the line to each stance/belay. As long as you are 'in the zone' all the time the mechanics of multi-pitching sport routes aren't that difficult to work out. Enjoy the escape from the crap weather!

Have you picked up a really old guide? Heres a few crags that I've done single pitch stuff.

Guadalest

Alcalali

Toix

Echo valley (the newer stuff)

Marin

Recconco (can be cold as its at 800m and the grading is a bit stiff)

Sorry I wasn’t clear. I have the latest Rockfax, but all of the top 50s seem to be multipitch. I’d like to tick off routes (completed) rather than just do a single pitch then lower off.

probably a bit lazy of me as I could just spend some time on the guide, but I was wondering if there was a couple of crags people could recommend with good single pitch routes, in that grade range. So yes, I was serious. Not heart surgery serious but serious enough to ask for a pointer from someone that’s been there before on a good crag to start on. There’s obviously a lot of choice but we’re only there for a day and a half 

we’ll probably be staying in benidorm

You have the guide but can’t be bothered to look for crags/routes that suit you!

FFS. Can I politely suggest you sit down and read your guide - it’s all there.

Have a good trip there is lots to go at You will enjoy it I’m sure.

If you have the most recent edition of the Rockfax guide you’ll be spoilt for choice for top quality single pitch crags.

Sella, Alcalali, Guadalest, Aventador, Gandia, Montesa, Val de Gulabdar, for starters.

Look beyond the Top 50 list.

Have fun

No they aren't,

Chris

Plenty of crags.

From Alicante to Calpe:

- Cabezón de Oro (new sector over the Canelobre Cave - turistic cave).

- Castellets in Finestrat.

- Sella (reallllllyyyyyy nice).

- Guadalest (Nice place and great views).

- Bernia.

- Toix (west and east) see www.montana-mediterranea.com (croquis).

- Oltá.

- Penya Roja (Lliber). See www.montana-mediterranea.com

- Alcalalí (too much routes).

- Font d'Aixa. See www.montana-mediterranea.com

- Morro Falquí. German style.

Too much rock for a weekend.

Yours

David Mora

Mountain Guide

As you have only have one and a half days I would say have half a day at Alcalali (sun trap) and a full day at Guadalest (can be chilly if not sunny). I have assumed you are staying near Calpe and have a car.

Plus 1 for Montesa, choice of sun or shade, nice restaurants in village <ahem>, worth the drive, and a couple of really interesting lower grade climbd (chimneys, bridging between two blocks, etc! - not your usual sport climbing.

and RTFM since you bought it.

I'd just say go and have an adventure up the Penon or a multi-pitch rather than single pitch routes if you're going all the way there for any random 6a pitches. 

What do you know?  

It is a long time since I looked at the book, and tbh I was surprised how many of the Top 50 were multi-pitch - so not that much

Chris

Thanks for the help (most of you) - that was really useful for helping me zero in on where to go.

With so much choice in the area, I found it difficult choosing where to go in the limited time we have.  When I found a cluster of routes in the grade I wanted there were often provisos that put me off such as 'bolts need updating', 'run out' or 'have become very polished' which put me off, so it became a bit of a minefield, which is why I thought I'd ask.

Of course, you can probably guess I'm not massively experienced which (despite having had a good look over routes) is why I asked - something to bear in mind for those that sway more to the forum nazi side of things. 

Thanks to everyone with the suggestions, they've really helped.

Just read the thread and thought your'e request for info was most reasonable, not sure why the response was so hostile to be honest.

Just be aware that a lot of the lower offs are re threads.

If you're flying from Alicante, then  Reconco is an excellent choice. Close to the airport, short walk in, excellent rock quality, on well bolted and accurately graded routes. Mostly single pitch, or two pitches that can be done in one if you have an 80m rope. Highly recommend.

If you only have a day and a half, and are stopping in Benidorm any mash up of Sella/Guadalest/Toix West will work,

Chris

Don't leave valuables & climbing kit in car unattended if going to supermarket in Benidorm area.  Been some total car clear-outs of climbers stuff in the last few years.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/dont_leave_your_gear_in_the_...

Because it's an internet forum.  If there wasn't a queue of people desperate to bash new people for trying to ask what they perceive as simple questions with weak passive aggressive answers, I'd be worried that the internet was broken.

The advice I did get was amazing though, so that's what I came for.  I imagine we'll probably try Sella and Toix, as we'll be staying roughly in the middle and seem to be good choices.  I just wanted a bit of peace of mind that I wouldn't be making a bad choice due to the limited time we have.  There seemed to be a lot more variables than other guidebooks - Granada was a lot more straight forward it seemed.

Anyway, we're off on Friday so looking forward to a nice weekend.

I'm flying out on Saturday, not for the climbing this time, but for the mountain biking

Weather looks perfect.

Enjoy!

There are, although it does have the proviso at the beginning that it focusses on the longer more memorable routes which is fair.

I just wanted to say thank you for your work on the Rockfax guides - as a relatively new climber (I climbed as a child, but largely was told what to do) they've been invaluable.  I find a lot of climbing guides either badly written or confusing, but the Rockfax ones are extremely user friendly which is no mean feat with the amount of content they have.  Nice work.

Appreciated

Enjoy the Blanca - my first visit (1987! ) was life changing,

Chris.

As others have said lots of places to choose from but I would go to Toix. Was the first place I went to on my first trip and have been several times since and still haven't done all I can. 

As it happens have been there today on Ruwa a four pitch 5 but there are many single pitch routes.

Have a great trip : )

Your early visits were life-changing for many of us, Chris.  Your first Cicerone guide to the Blanca inspired a generation to put away their Scottish winter gear and jet off to clip bolts in the sun instead.  Thank you.

Thanks Chris - I will do.  I only started being able to walk again in March, so I'm very excited.  I never thought I'd want to go to Benidorm, but life is full of surprises!