UKC

What would be the best 4+ pitch, 6a+ b+ ish routes in Costa Blanca with the key requirement that I don't want to even think about trad gear, just clip bolts?  Except maybe on 4 or easier throwaway pitches.

The harder pitch of G.E.D.E. (6a+) is a perfect gear setup - lots of bolts and closely spaced at the crux.

Grade wise probably sustained 6a-a+, or with 6b/+ key pitches. I had no trouble at  all with the gede 6a+ pitch, some difficulty with Monkey Wall (6c) that is supposed to be 6c, but I did have a ton of trouble on thin 6b+ parts of Delicatessen (6b+).

The route Costa Blanca on the penon was excellent i remember 

there is an easier alternative last pitch which drops the overall grade to 6b+ i think

no trad gear needed

Leyva has loads in that range.  The local guidebook will be very helpful. - upto 6b+ I'd say there are at least 15 that are at least 3 pitches and fully bolted.  With a tiny rack (or more confidence than I have) there are another 10 or so that are great.  In all there are about 100 routes on the main wall - all 50 - 250m length and mostly in the 6a-7a range.  Unfortunately they are not all fully bolted (or clean)

Orihuela and  Redovan have a few good ones too.

Montanejos and the surrounding walls have quite a few too (Maimon).

enjoy!

Magical Mystery Tour, Parle (only three pitches but a world-class experience).

Mick

Sonjannika (6a+) is excellent fun too (was not covinced of quality of rest of crag ... but sonjaninika makes it worth a visit

So many ! 

Erotika at guadalest stands out.

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