UKC

/ Costa Blanca new routes

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bpmclimb on 05 Jan 2018
Going back to CB this Feb, and it's time for my usual January post enquiring about new routes. Sorry if I sound like a stuck record to some!

We're staying in the Xalo Valley this time, so any new routes/crags near there are of particular interest, but also further afield. We're after lead routes rather than bouldering/DWS; we will have some trad gear. Basically, anything that's not in the 2013 Rockfax guidebook (we know about Morro Falqui and plan to spend a day there).

Thanks.
Sam Mayfield - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Busot? Rich raved about it last month. not sure if he has a topo will ask him to comment on here.

Sam Orange
Rich Mayfield - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Check this page out for topos https://sites.google.com/site/rokinski/Home/tocayo-busot

The situation at Morro Falqui, as I understand it is as follows, the FA's claim to have had permission from the local Major to climb here. So there will be no problems from the local police. The area is protected by Reginal/national law and as such policed by the Guardia Civil. I won't ever knowingly break a access restriction in the UK and I personally would respect similar in other countries. It's not like there is any shortage of new routing going on at the moment.

Have fun Rich
Tom Phillips - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Great venue at Cocentaina - I have heard good things. I ran past it reccying a route for our trail running holidays. It looks amazing!

http://el-centre.blogspot.com.es/p/croquis-mas-de-la-penya.html

There are specific instructions on parking/access. I can help decipher them if you wish!
Mark Eddy - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Adsubia crag (near Pego) has seen some development. Was there today, very nice. Also very sharp. A free topo is available from Pego tourist info. Grades 5 - 7
Bovedon (Gandia) has seen plenty development too with a good selection of 5 - 7's
Bolulla Raco Roig is worth a visit for the view alone, the climbing is good though: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/guided-rock-climbing-coaching-week-costa-blanca
Aixorta Nevero is a big single pitch crag with some 6's and lots of harder climbs in the cave. Haven't climbed here yet, but plan too when the next warm spell arrives - the crag is high and faces North. Between Castell de Castells and Tarbena, so quick from Jalon valley.

Hope that's helpful
bpmclimb on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to Mark Eddy:

> Hope that's helpful

Yes, very - thanks.
Thanks for other replies too.
IceBun - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:
Some I have spotted though not visited and which are mentioned by others
Pego 2 http://www.pegoilesvalls.es/en/que_hacer/escalada

Different/additional Busot info
http://cembusot.es/escuela-escalada-busot-alicante/
http://cuadernodemontana.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/11-09-2015-escalada-deportiva-en-busot_56.html

This is also interesting for the area around Alcoy though we did try the barranco de ferry and were disappointed. I’ve been told cocetaina is very good though generally harder routes and stiff grades but have not been and would be. Along haul from xalo https://escalaralcoiaicomtat.centrexcursionistalcoi.org/inici.html

Have heard good reports on bollula roca Roig and Aoxorta.

I’ve hunted high and low for a decent topo for bovedos and bovedin but to no avail, they look very sunny.
Post edited at 09:27
Mark Eddy - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to IceBun:

Good link for the Pego/Adsubia crags. The approach notes for Adsubia are incorrect (check logbook on ukc for correct info). It's right onto the Forna road then lay-by 150m on the left
Mike-W-99 on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Hi Rich, we climbed there (Moro Falqui) the other month. Did the classic Sonjannika and a few of the good looking single pitch routes.
Should be have stayed clear? No indications that climbing was not allowed.
Nic on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

There are some great looking crags in the valley west of Pego (forget its name now but the road is the CV700), which I recall I found some information on with a bit of diligent googling. Look quite tricky to access though, unless one knows the farm roads leading up to the back of the crags? We were there in high summer for a wedding in L'Orxa, so climbing thoughts limited to the usual staring up at crags from the car.

If anyone heads that way I can thoroughly recommend the municipal swimming pool in La Carroja - puts many luxury hotel pools to shame!
dominic o - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Plenty to go at that isn't in the latest Rockfax. We've been to at least a dozen new crags in the area in the last couple of years. Have a browse of the Costa Blanca section of our blog for a bit of inspiration:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/spain/valencia-costa-blanca/

Enjoy!
Rich Mayfield - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Mike-W-99:

Hiya, as far as I'm aware this area is still protected. It's the same law and area that saw us have to remove gear at the big cave at Moraira (15 years ago) I'd only done two trad lines there so not much for me to remove. But other people had done much more bolting. I think this actually got a mention in the Chris Craggs book for the late 80's, the historical routes stand but no new lines have been allowed since.
Personally I won't knowingly break an access agreement or ban.
Mark Eddy - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Regarding the cliffs at Moraira, there's info online from the local authority to ask for no further development. The bolts / fixed gear that remains is in such a poor state that most would turn away and go somewhere else anyway. As I understand it there is no issue to climb any of those routes using traditional protection. This cliff also seems to attract many snakes to its base and rock, in case anyone needed further persuasion to look elsewhere!

Morro Falqui: As Rich mentions, there's apparently a signed letter from the Mayor. Further to this, quite recently a prominent information board was erected at the lower entrance to Sonjannika (at the head of the barranco), this showed how to access the beach via fixed ropes installed by the local authority. There is no indication on this board to suggest climbing is forbidden. My experience of these info boards here is that they will make any access issues very clear (Relleu VF / Orihuela Pared Negra / Ponoch VF / as examples).
When the fixed ropes in the canyon were being replaced by local authority workers, we accessed the cliff and briefly chatted to the guys working there. We told them we were going climbing on Sonjannika and there was no suggestion from them that wasn't completely fine.
David Mora - on 17 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Hi There,

Morro Falquí is not officially banned, but people living in the urbanization like a lot the birds and call the police when there are people climbing (in the upper rotes, not in Sonjenika). At the moment haven't had problems.

The main banned areas are signed with pannels and banned by a legal authority.

Have a good climb.

David Mora

Mountain Guide

Lucian - on 22 Jan 2018
In reply to Tom Phillips:

It's maybe the best winter sector in whole Costa Blanca if you're into 7a-7c, long routes (35-40m), light but sustained overhangs, nice rock for the fingers. Microclimate,  rarely windy, sunny until 5pm.

bpmclimb on 30 Jan 2018
In reply to all:

Does anyone have a link to topos or any info on the new sector(s) at Pena Roja (Lliber)? Thanks

Mark Eddy - on 30 Jan 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Don't have a topo, although I think there is one around somewhere.

The first 3 (going l-r) I think are 6b+ / 7b+ / 8 a

After a short gap there's another 6b+ or thereabouts. Well bolted and very sharp. 

bpmclimb on 07 Feb 2018
In reply to Mark Eddy/all:

Maybe just me - I'm sure I saw it recently - but I can't seem to find the topos/approaches for Morro Falqui. Was it in a RF Miniguide that isn't now available? Or an Orange House topo guide, maybe? 

 

Thanks

Post edited at 22:11
Mike-W-99 on 07 Feb 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Its in the rock fax app but used to be  mini guide I think.

bpmclimb on 08 Feb 2018
In reply to Mike-W-99:

Thanks. My phone and OS are too old, apparently, but Clare just bought the crag for 99p


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