/ Costa Blanca ridges and trad, recommendations ?

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sarahjk - on 06 Sep 2013
I am lucky enough to be off to The Orange House again at the end of October for half term. Went in February half term and did Toix Ridge and really want to do some more, as well as bolt clipping and searching for trad routes.

Does anyone have any recommendations/warnings or general feedback on options ? I have the first Rockfax ridge guide printed out. Looking for fairly long, not desperate, entertaining days out. I lead S [usually] happily and my partner is a lot more experienced. We will be taking basic trad rack and good head torches !

Mark Eddy - on 06 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: Have you done Espolon cental on the Puig? Brilliant route. Plenty more esoteric adventures on there too.
For something a bit different try the Barranco del infierno canyon descent, really cool day out.
Fiona Reid - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast:

The Bernia Ridge is excellent, mostly scrambling with one pitch of about 4/4+ which most folks would take a rope for. The Rockfax Ridge guide has a good description. Pick a good day for this as it's probably 7+ hours end to end. Sometimes the paint markings are a little faint but it's usually obvious which way to go.

AlH - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: Agree wholly with the other posters, Espolon Central is a long but excellent day out (get an early start especially if not used to routes of this length). Barranco Del Infierno is great fun (see this recent thread: ) and The Bernia Ridge is probably the most popular of the Costa Blanca Ridges (a couple of exposed sections and abseils and one short ver well bolted of slightly harder climbing). Also the Via Ferrata on the Ponoch is worthwhile if you have lanyards or can rent locally. I'm sure the guys at The Orange House will be very helpful with local knowledge too.
Al Evans on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: This is more of a climbing crest/ridge, you will need ropes etc, you can probably get info at The Orange House.
Al Evans on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to Al Evans: NB The guidebook says III- and suggests a time of 3 hours, but I suspect that does not include time getting to the bottom, and in the Spanish text it suggests there is a pitch of III/IV-
sarahjk - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast:

Thanks. Saw the recent canyoneering thread. Lots of ideas.

What is the Via Ferrata like out there too ? Worth taking lanyards ?
crustypunkuk - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast:
Third recommendation for Espolon Central. I was out there in April and soloed it in perfect conditions and it may just be the best day i've ever had on rock.
Just be aware that the descent down through the choss and scree is absolutely desperate.
Mark Eddy - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: The via ferrata on Ponoch is well worth doing. Walk in is only about 15-20 mins, at the parking area there's a map of the route including descent. You'll need a 60m rope for the abseil descent (i think the information board states one of the abs is 35m but we had no trouble using a 60). Didn't have lanyards so used cowstails made from short sections of rope. Self locking carabiners would be useful, we used screwgates and that was a faff.
sarahjk - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey: thanks.
tlm - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast:

How about via valencia on the penon de ifach? Most of the climbing is straightforward, there is one polished crux move but it is possible to aid that bit if needs be:
AlH - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: As the OP says the Ponoch VF is well worth doing and he's right about being able to do it with a 60m rope for the ab. However its definitely worth getting proper VF lanyards. Its steep and falls are possible. I wouldn't recommend you take a factor 5 fall onto a short length of dynamic rope.
Sam Mayfield - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to sarahkeast:

Hi Sarah,

I think you already know about these mini guides, Rich is working on the Ridges one but I never give him office time to get it done!

See you real soon.

Sam Orange x

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