We're off for a 4 dayer staying in Alicante mid Nov (first visit) and were after some route/crag recommendations please. I'm afraid we're only talking 6a+ max grade, and preferably the well bolted stuff where zero/minimal rack is required. We hoped to get 2 days of pure single pitch sport, and 1-2 days multi pitch adventures (longer the better). Looking at Rockfax we're thinking Murcia for the latter, and around where we're staying in Alicante for single pitch. We'll have transport though, so I'd really appreciate any recommendations based on your experiences - we want to make the most of the trip.
Thanks very much in advance.
Be aware that some of the multi pitch around Murcia is currently closed until Dec'2013 due to an invasive cactus. Leyva is excellent and Carnival may fit the bill, although I would have liked a cam or hex on one of the easier pitches rather than only having the bolts...but I am probably a whimp! Didre Ubsa on the Pennon would also be a possible. Have fun!
If you are staying in Alicante there is quite a lot of climbing, both single pitch and multipitch in the Orihuela/Redovan area.This situated roughly midway between Alicante and Murcia. La Pared Negra has several 5 or 6 pitch routes in the grades you mention and Callosa de Segura has plenty of single pitch climbs. Also can recommend Marin as worth a visit.
Do you have a source for the 'invasive cactus' report? The local climbing club appears to having a walk to the cross on the summit of Pared Negra tomorrow, see www.acclivis.org. Also, there is no mention on the Destivel site, http://escuelasdeescalada.desnivel.com/ingles/ficha_i.php?ID=17. So I would think it should ok to climb there.
Yes. I attempted to climb there about 10 days ago and there are signs clearly indicating the area is closed to walkers and climbers on the path from the parking opposite the crag, just through the tunnel.