UKC

Any recommendations for crack climbs in the Lake district? I can't find any ticklists including the lakes, only north wales and the peaks.

Many thanks
Cerith

In reply to Cerith:
Kern Knotts Crack and Innominate Crack on Kern Knotts crag.
Side by side cracks each with their own character.

In reply to Cerith:

Muscle crack (Raven crag, ODG) E1 5b/c -- short but rather brutal.
Gimmer Crack VS4c -- Not all crack climbing, and when it is, it's more of a corner with some bridging IIRC. Fab route though

In reply to Cerith:

Muscle Crack (E1 5c) looks VS from below, do not be deceived.

In reply to Cerith:

Two great ones I can think of off the top of my head are Praying Mantis on Goat (the crux pitch anyway) and Snicker Snack on Gable.

In reply to Cerith:
Bilberry Buttress on Raven Crag in Langdale. despite the name the first two pitches involve crack climbing, both strenuous and tenuous, at the upper limit of the VS grade. A superb and varied outing overall.

Bilberry Buttress (VS 4c)

In reply to Cerith:

A few lesser climbed ones. Hernia and castration crack at Gouther... There are other decent crack climbs here too, and away from the crowds. Express crack at Buckbarrow, longsledale. Susan at Gowbarrow. What grades are you looking for?

In reply to Cerith:
A varied selection of cracks here from thin finger tips, to hands, to full body insertion!

Some can be laybacked and not jammed but most involve some kind of crack climbing technique.

Have done most but not all, a couple i used a size 6 cam on.

Razor Crack (E1 5b)
Foul Play (HVS 5b)
Castration Crack (E3 6a)
Green Eggs and Ham (E1 5c)
Innominate Crack (VS 4b)
The Vikings (E3 5c)
Sacrificial Crack (E4 6a) - Top Pitch only
Westmorland Crack (E2 5c)
Crocodile Crack (HVS 5a)
Smuggler's Chimney (VS 4c)
Snicker Snack (E3 5c)
Shifter (E3 6a)
Jitterbug (E3 6a)
Rhode Island Red (E3 5c)
Big Tree Corner (E1 5b)
Kick Off (HVS 5a)
Right-hand Crack (HVS 5b)
Black Dancer (E1 5c)
Ann's Agony (HVS 5b)
Laugh Not (HVS 5b)
Waller's Crack (HVS 5a)
Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a)
Post Mortem (E3 5c)
White Noise (E3 5c)

In reply to petegunn:
Good list. Missing Californian Weirdo (E2 5c)

In reply to Jon Stewart:
I knew id miss one : )

There's also supposed to be a good one within walking distance of Ambelside

In reply to Cerith:

This is it

Crack In The Woods (E4 6a)

In reply to Cerith:

Behind the Lines (HVS 5a)

Another good crack line, but climbs as a layback.

In reply to Cerith:

A couple more up at Heirloom

Like Father, Like Son (E4 6a) A hard off-width, take the big cams.
Heirloom (HVS 5a)

In reply to petegunn:


The Sting, Steel Knotts, Pussy Galore, Goats Crag

In reply to Cerith:

The Bulger (E5 6b), although short, certainly offers a decent tussle. Fingers.

In reply to Cerith:
One from yours truly on Pike Howe, 30 minutes from the NDG car park in Langdale.

No Country for Old Men 5.11c E4. Needs an on sight. Details on the FRCC website.

Edit add paste of route desc

No Country for Old Men 25m E4 6a/5.11c
The central crack line. Think you can climb cracks? Try this one for size! Good locks and jams from tips to fist
with gear on demand. How hard can it be? In the words of the first ascensionist” I don’t know, the grade is a
guess.” Expect to suffer.
Originally climbed with gear in place, (apparently this is called green-pointing). There has been a ground up
ascent (no beta). One fall, ropes pulled, climbed clean second go.
First ascent: (01/06/2013) Rick Graham Ted Rogers

In reply to Rick Graham:

Post Mortem Eagle Crag Langstrath

In reply to Cerith:

go an do Kick Off (HVS 5a) at Tilberthwaite Quarry, more of a layback flake but its soooo good, also if you fancy a good challenge then Laugh Not (HVS 5b) at White Ghyll, is a good crack climb, but pretty tough, I still need to go back there and put it to bed.

In reply to Cerith:

Mortician HVS on Black Crag in Borrowdale (also main pitch of Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect (HVS) on same crag)
Electron HVS - Pillar Rock - a long corner crack pitch and an "interesting" layback.
Centaur HVS - Scafell East Butress has a great layback crack as it's final pitch.
on Trespasser Groove (HVS) - Esk Butress includes Frankland's Crack (of Green Crack at Almscliff fame.)

In reply to Cerith:
Hells Groove
Phoenix
Saxon.

In reply to Cerith:

Finale on shepherds qualify as a 'crack'? If so its popular but stiff as John Holmes.

In reply to jas wood:

I was going to suggest the same!

In reply to Cerith:

There's a couple I've seen from the ground but haven't attempted that look interesting in a classical sense. One is on Harrison Stickle above Dungeon Ghyll and the other is on High Crag. I imagine they are both starred and around HVS. The first looks kinda isolated, don't think there'll be many other climbs near it. Sorry I can't be more precise.

In reply to Cerith:

F route on Gimmer?

In reply to Cerith:

Stiff Little Fingers,
Deer Bield Crack

Oh hang on..........

In reply to Cerith:

It's not quite in the Lakes, but you can't go wrong with Trowbarrow's main wall.

In reply to Cerith:
Also some classic chimney pitches near Wastwater

Overbeck

Ash Tree Chimney
Central Chimney
B Chimney

In reply to Cerith:

Shundraw Quarry

and

Lemon Dixon (E6 6c)

Looked good but never been back to try it, yet

In reply to C
Can I suggest one of my own as nobody else has; White Ghyll Eliminate.

In reply to Darron:


Surprised this didn't come up first.