UKC

Hello, I am looking for multipitch trad and sport crags around the Med.  No countries in particular just anything close or within walking distance of harbours, marinas or if known about - safe anchorages. I haven’t been through the database yet as I am keen to hear about any personal experiences or recommendations for crags first.

In reply to dan wisey:

Pretty sure there’s a crag literally at the Marina in Port de Soller in Mallorca. I’ve not climbed there but apparently it’s not too bad...

Theres also one at some docks somewhere in Sardinia (I’d need to look that one up).

In reply to dan wisey:

The Port de Soller crag (if it’s the one I’ve been to) isn’t great.

Somewhere along the Calanques would be my suggestion.

Perhaps... Sormiou

In reply to dan wisey:

Calpe?

In reply to dan wisey:

Calpe - the marina is right underneath El Peñon d'Ifach.

In reply to dan wisey:

The Calanques.

In reply to dan wisey:

Omis / Croatia. Has several multipitch climbs in walking distance from the harbour... Mainly 6a-6c and well bolted. 

In reply to dan wisey:

+1 for the Calanques.

Cassis perhaps for a harbour

In reply to Iamgregp:

Was Porto di Santa Maria what you thinking of.  I stayed there for a few days, about 5 or 10 years ago. The crag is a few metres from the port road and has 15-20 routes.  They're about 20 m high. Ok for a few evening's entertainment.

In reply to dan wisey:

What they said - the Calanques and Cassis.   

Calpe is the obvious one - if you ask where the crag is , someone should tie an anchor to your feet and throw you overboard

In reply to dan wisey:

Hi Danny, how are you doing?  I remember you being injured on an FMC ice climbing trip some years ago.

One place that might interest you is San Vito lo Capo  in Sicily.  It's got a chuffin big multipitch crag about half an hour's walk from the harbour.  Me and Martin Bennet were there in May 2019.

In reply to Dave Cundy:Hi Dave, that’s right yes. I’m keen to get back involved with the trips when we are able too! How are you doing?

Thanks for your suggestion I will check it out. My experience of cragging around the coastal areas of Europe are limited having focused mainly trips in and around the alps for the last few years.

In reply to dan wisey:

Sardinia for sure - Pain de Zucchero (stack) and Porto Flavia area in the SW, and Pedra Longa / Cala Goloritze area in the east.  If you're brave there'd be new routing up 300m of more or less vertical limestone at Capo Caccia near Alghero (Super-exposed VF near the top). There's a single pitch crag right on the marina wall at Sant Maria north of Lotzorai.

In reply to dan wisey:

Cliffbase in Croatia Hvar - Suplja Stina (Cliffbase) is good, although think it's only (long) single pitch

In reply to dan wisey:

Just to elaborate on the Calanques, I've had a long-term dream for a few years of spending a year exploring the Mediterranean sea cliffs by boat. It formed from the confluence of reading Simon Yates' Into the Wild, and trying to climb in the Calanques (trying, failing to reach the crag, and reviewing the Marseilles A&E department on day 1).

Cassis is an obvious base, but many of the calanques have small harbours or anchorages too — Morgiou, Sormiou for examples. And it'll save your knees from the land-based approaches too.

In reply to dan wisey:

Varasova and Katafyki (Argolis) in Greece. A lot depends on "walking distance".

In reply to jimtitt:

Not multipitch BUT vlychada and balogeri would be worth a stop if you’re passing. Paradise coves 

In reply to dan wisey:

There's a marina at Port Esportu at Mascarat, I'd guess maybe 500m walk from Mascarat Gorge. Toix also nearby.

Dave

In reply to dan wisey:

Surprised no one has mentioned Kalymnos /Telendos yet. 

In reply to George_Surf:

BUT the OP specifically said multi-pitch.

In reply to Seymore Butt:

Christ.... Sometimes The most obvious answer just doesn’t come mind does it?!  Absolutely loads of routes within walking distance of the ports & mooring points!

In reply to All: Thank you for all of your suggestions so far. It gives me plenty to take a look at.

In reply to dan wisey:

Cala Gonone - Sardinia.  You can walk to La Poltrona from the harbour.

In reply to dan wisey:

Ooooh just remembered Punta Pedra Longa in Sardinia - it's a pinnacle connected to the land with several bolted routes to the top.  You start on the seaward side (you could just step off your boat!) climb to the top and then it's an easy descent (abseil/walk) on the other side to where there's a nice Pizza restaurant.

There's also a single pitch crag in walking distance from here too.   

In reply to dan wisey:

Kalymnos (Myrties) and Telendos are obvious oneswith crags in walking distance. Varasova (mainland Greece) has a jetty at the foot of the crag (just cross the small road).

In reply to jimtitt:

There’s extensions if that counts :P The coves are beautiful though and well worth a stop off. Take your snorkel!

In reply to George_Surf:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/olympos_antalya-9695#maps

Im sure you could park up off the beach and climb. 

In reply to tehmarks:

En Vau looks like a safe anchorage.  I'm pretty sure I've seen yachts anchored within swimming distance.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

It also appears, though I can't confirm, that there's an obscene amount of virgin rock on the coast east of Cassis. We took a little rigid dinghy around the coast after I spannered myself, and I'd be surprised if much of the rock outside of the calanques themselves is developed. No idea if it is subject to national park restrictions, and no idea of the practicalities, but it seems ripe for exploration by a suitably adventurous sea-based team.

In reply to tehmarks:

West of Cassis* — in the direction of the calanques and Marseille.

In reply to dan wisey:

Leonidio in the Peloponnese, Greece. And Kyparissi further down the coast

In reply to dan wisey:

Muzzerone could be an option. I seem to remember plenty of fancy yachts bobbing around near the cliffs. Quite cool multipitch IIRC. Possibly some access problems (about 5 or 6 years since I was there I think). The rifugio had a guidebook you could take pictures of as it was out of print at the time.

Muzzerone