UKC

Crag/Venue Suggestions please!?!

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 Snips 27 Aug 2021

Hi all!

Hopefully I can pose a question without it being very long winded!

Without going into excessive details I'm looking for a location that meets a certain criteria (MOD activity Guidelines)

So I'm Looking for places that:

1: Are within a days drive of Portsmouth (Probably Dorset)

2. Easy grade climbs for first timers

3. Crag must be accessible from top and bottom by walking (I.E no abseil access) and be single pitch.

4. Be able to rig a top or bottom rope system (either rigging anchors or if the sport anchors are safely reachable from above)

I've been to Portland many times for my own sport climbing but haven't really had my eyes out for this sort of thing until now, some places I already plan on having a look at are the Veranda at Battleship. Maybe some of the Trad routes on the far right of Neddyfields. Sharbutts Quarry at Blacknor South might have something and fallen slab on Blacknor beach.

Does anyone have any other suggestions worth a look see for suitability?

And does anyone have any suggestions for a place for group abseiling? preferably off any routes to not be a pain to others wanting to climb with a forgiving gradient and step off for first timers?

Kind of failed on keeping it short and sweet!
Thanks to anyone that is able to offer any suggestions! 

 smithg 27 Aug 2021
In reply to Snips:

Blacknor Beach would work, possibly some other bits of Blacknor South The Cuttings too if you don't mind stretching over the edge from above. It should be possible to set up stuff at Dungecroft Quarry and The Bower at the Cuttings. A long clipstick might help. Dungecroft Quarry

For other options, Fairy Cave Quarry (more a down scramble than a walk off) or Cheddar.

Fairy Cave Quarry

Wyndcliff Quarry is perfect and because it's motorway driving it's not a lot further away in travel time. Wyndcliff Quarry

2
 YourNameHere 27 Aug 2021
In reply to Snips:

Cattle Troughs at Swanage? Easy scramble down, easy climbs, belay stakes at the top...

 GrahamD 28 Aug 2021
In reply to YourNameHere:

I was thinking of the beginners wall at Dancing Ledges.

OP Snips 30 Aug 2021

Thanks all.

Will add to the list of locations to check out and see. 

Actually rather looking forward to a nice walk now!


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