UKC

Hello

Hope everyone had a jolly xmas break

I'm going to a wedding in crete this summer, it's in Paleochora (I think), so a couple of us thought we would kill two birds with one stone and get a week or so of climbing in afterwards - ideally long and easy (5s and 6s) sport routes. I bought the book in the link below
https://rockrun.com/products/crete-climbing-from-north-to-south

but from just from a quick flick through it seems to be mainly single pitch crags. Does anyone know if there is much to go at in crete, in terms of clipping bolts on big routes?

Cheers!

In reply to leobold:

Last year I was on a road trip with (non-climbing) family so I couldn't stop to check out the walls, however, I did spot nice big ones to the east side of Crete. The walls were on the left of the motorway 'EO Iraklio Agiou Nikolaou' (I think!) when you drive from Selinari to Agios Nikolaos. If memory serves correctly, there is an archeological site (settlement?) on the far right of this motorway (although just past these walls and closer to Agios Nikolaos). I was under the impression at the time that it was a gorge (although I may be wrong), particularly. I'm sorry I couldn't be more specific about the location, maybe if someone has been in the area this description will jog a memory?

If we could include photos I would put one up so you could judge the approximate height as my multi-pitch experience is non-existent. From memory, it won't be many pitches, I can't imagine more than two/three. Let me see if I can find that photo and link you to it somehow.

Fair warning (lecture imminent, sorry!) Crete is fairly easy to drive using the coastal roads. Under no circumstances though, should you drive in the mountains or get stuck in it right before/during nightfall. They don't have lights, the corners are dangerous (you'll notice the "death/mourning" posts on almost every corner) and the locals drive like they own the mountain (to be fair, they probably do). It's actually a benefit if you have a narrow-ish car.

In reply to leobold:
Update

I take it completely back, it is between Agios Nikolaos and Ierapetra, according to my photos an approximate 22 minute drive from Ierapetra: https://goo.gl/maps/KgbyWBcf63A2

There is a monistary nearby and judging by the location and direction of the photo I'd say it was Gorge Ha: https://goo.gl/maps/Ya6fuJqxLSB2

I don't know if it is climbable mind!

Failing that, I hear the Samaria Gorge walk is great. We didn't get to go there but we went to the village 'Omalos'. The restaurant food is fantastic and the drive there is easy enough.

In reply to leobold:

Ha Gorge would be far too distant from Paleohora, about 3-4 hours drive and it's trad and serious. Classic canyoning descent. There are long multipitch routes on Gingilos, alpine grades fairly close to the SW end of island but still an hours drive from Paleohora and about 45 min walk in. Nearest multipitch with bolts (german bolting and grades) are in some gorges south of Chania, sorry can't remember the name. Good sport climbing at Plakias but its a massive drive unless you stay over and the routes are mainly 6b+ upward, mainly much harder. Basically Crete is as long as Wales, you are staying in The Gower and all the climbing is mid-wales and north wales in terms of distance and roads. the coast road along the north is the only really fast one. you could take trad gear and new route - there are crags everywhere or DWS in July eg. next to the Jetty at Sougia - though what I found was either too easy or very very hard. I didn't find any sport development in the SW of island but loads of scope for trad

In reply to nickcanute:
I did the Samarian Gorge walk last year and aside from a great day out it definitely looked like there was some big trad climbs to do there. Has anyone on here done any or know much about them?

In reply to leobold:

Thanks for all the advice everyone!  I bought this book: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Crete-Climbing-in-Chania-Guide... 

... without realising it is almost entirely in Greek!! So not entirely sure how useful it is going to be.

Nonetheless I am leaning towards bringing the trad gear with us and doing one or two of the routes on Mt Gigilos, in particular 'Number 8'.

Gigilos

Νούμερο 8 (Number 8) (AD-)

Although I'm aware that this might mean I will have to pay for the extra luggage weight on the plane.

I will let you know if we come up with any better ideas, and how we get on with whatever we do end up doing.