UKC

Croatia - the Knowledge?

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 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 01 Aug 2021

WIth the glory that is Brexit, our new 90 day limit in Schengen and the fact that Croatia isn't in 'the club' just yet, we are thinking of heading there later in the year.

I was wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best area to spend say a month climbing easier sport routes - as in sub-6b.

I have the Istria guidebook but not the volume to the whole country as yet.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated,

Chris

 Rob Exile Ward 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Paklenica is the obvious destination, and there's plenty to explore nearby also - Split is one of my favourite tourist destinations.

I don't  know what it would be like with Covid, but the drive used  to be OK as well, either via Venice or Salzburg.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Thanks for that - we are already on the way, a slow drive via Briançon and probably Switz/Austria/Dolomites. Bizarrely Paklenica had completely slipped my mind - gotta be an age thing

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hi Chris

You might already have checked out the Croatia section of the blog, but if not here's the link:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/eastern-europe/croatia/

Apart from Paklenika (doh!) the other two major areas I'd recommend would be Buzet (just over the border from Osp but much friendlier grades and nowhere near as polished!)

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/04/08/buzet/

... and Omis (a seaside resort and former pirate stronghold (yo-ho-ho) with loads of easily accessed climbing - what's not to like?!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/05/01/omis-climbing/

As you're driving down, also be sure to check out the Plitvice Lakes National Park on the way down - no climbing, but visually stunning!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/04/16/plitvice-lakes-national-park/

If you discover any other great spots, let us know. We may well be heading that way soon for similar reasons!

Cheers, Dom 

 CurlyStevo 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

If your in omits anyway the crags above Brela are worth a day trip. Almost no polish and nice ambience.

Omis has a good range of different length and styles of sport climb, some of the light trad rack variety too iirc.

Post edited at 22:43
 tjekel 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

second the Omis & Brela combo, enough stuff for two weeks if you are also happy to do a multipitch climb or two, for example at Visoke Glavice.

Besides, the south end of Krk around Baska offers a full week of single pitch climbing at your grades... close or above the sea. Sectors Portafortuna and Sea Bag deserve special mention, as does Belove Stene.

In terms of off the beaten track locations, Dabarski Kukovi are a wonderland of karstic rock in an incredible place. take a small set of nuts and slings, the bolting is there where you need it.

One of the new hot spots is Cikola canyon near Sibenik, which can be combined with Krka waterfalls for sight seeing. 

https://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/cragIntro.asp?type=C&ord=n&cc=HR probably gives you the most recent overview what is availlable in specific places, though no topos. 

 remus 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I haven't got a guidebook to hand but I enjoyed the climbing on Hvar, some great beaches too especially if you're happy to wander off the beaten track a little.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 02 Aug 2021
In reply to everyone :

Thanks for all the info - exactly what I was looking for - UKC at its very best 😀

Chris

 Martin Hore 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I've only climbed at Paklenica where the multi-pitch stuff is also good and a bit less polished than the single pitch stuff in the gorge.

But I'll second the other cultural/sightseeing recommendations. Plitvice Lakes is unmissable if you're anywhere nearby and the Krka waterfalls (near Sibenik) are similar if not quite as good. All the islands I've visited are pretty spectacular.

On the cultural side we really enjoyed Trogir and we had a very interesting day visit by bus from Plitvice across the border to Bihac in Bosnia. This was a few years ago when the aftermath of the fierce fighting in that area was hugely in evidence but the spirit of the local people - especially young people - was obvious.

Martin

 DannyC 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Another shout for the Omis area. We'd a lovely fortnight around there (despite getting trenchfoot during the first five days of rain!) about a decade ago. A wide range of routes - from roadside single pitch to some excellent low-grade mountain routes. It's also easy to hop out to the islands from there. Hvar is not to be missed. Enjoy!

D. 

 mutt 03 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Omis is HOT! We had to keep to the dark side of the gorge on october which seems a little of a waste. Paklenika is in the hills though so migth well be a little cooler. There is also some crags up in the sky near Omis, perhaps we were too lazy to explore them or was it because they were hard? Can't quite remember but a suspect they weree too hard. (>6c for me). Have fun. 

 jimtitt 03 Aug 2021
In reply to mutt:

Croatia in August???? It over 30° now so climbing will be lovely! The climbing at Omis and Paklenica isn't exactly high altitude, I'll be in northern Italy tomorrow but at least starting (camping) at over 1000m and the rest of the time a lot higher.

 kirsten 03 Aug 2021
In reply to jimtitt:

Too hot for me,  but one side or other of Paklenica will be in the shade at any given point… 

 tjekel 03 Aug 2021
In reply to jimtitt:

chris said "later in the year" 

 tjekel 03 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

one thing to keep in mind - routes have been opened by many nationalities, and grades in guidebooks tend to be inconsistent, including quite a few sandbags. The quality of the climbs is not affected. 

 jimtitt 03 Aug 2021
In reply to tjekel:

> chris said "later in the year" 

He also said he was on his way!

 oureed 05 Aug 2021
In reply to jimtitt:

> Croatia in August???? It over 30° now so climbing will be lovely! The climbing at Omis and Paklenica isn't exactly high altitude

I'm in Omis at the moment. Climbing in the shade is possible all day long. There are 4 crags within 5-20 mins walk from town centre. As the day progresses you move from one to the other and you stay in the shade all the time. Really nice climbing and surprisingly unpolished considering it's all roadside. The sea is also nice and warm for the apres-grimpe 

 CurlyStevo 05 Aug 2021
In reply to oureed:

its 36 deg next week though

 Brian in SLC 09 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

If you're coming down through Slovenia, and near Piran (good hang!), Crni Kal has some nice cragging that might be a touch cooler.  Some trees for shade and some north aspects.

We really enjoyed Limski Canal but its nearly all south facing and could be wicked hot.  Rovinj kind of a fun hang.  Good roadside raki stands and oysters.

Another vote for Omis.  Places down the coast would be close and have a nice grade spread.  Easy to base out of one of smaller towns just south.  Still striking distance for trip to Split for fun.

Hvar might be worthy.  We had torrential rain there but the climbing areas looked great (and not just cliff base).  Starigrad and Hvar town both fun spots to spend time in.  Ferry ride was amusing...

Cheers!

Post edited at 03:06
 James Malloch 09 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Is there a boarder crossing where you can “exit” the Schengen area to stop the 90 day count?

We’re hoping to do a long trip next year but hadn’t thought about going to Croatia for a while instead of coming back to the U.K.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 09 Aug 2021
In reply to James Malloch:

> Is there a boarder crossing where you can “exit” the Schengen area to stop the 90 day count?

That's the main point of going to Croatia - that and the fact it looks great!

Chris



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