/ Croatia Sport Climbing

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Gemma_Penny 08 Jul 2019

Hello there

I’m going to Croatia - Split in September sport climbing.

where is the best place to stay and do we hire a car or moped.

is it similar to Kalymnos?

many thanks 

jpicksley 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Gemma_Penny:

Hi,

If you're going to the Paklenica national park then this link will help: http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingCroatia/Paklenica.html.

Accommodation: we stay at the Neilson place which is only a couple of kms away from the first climbs. I think there might be a campsite next door or somewhere with accommodation to it but don't quote me on that.

Never been to Kalymnos so can't give you a comparison but it's very good. There are also some routes that take natural protection if that's your poison. Will be there myself in September. Good time to go.

Enjoy.

Edit: meant to say the guide book is good.

Post edited at 14:45
chris_r 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Gemma_Penny:

The rock in Paklenica national park is excellent, limestone with very little polish. Well bolted, similar to Kalymnos in frequency. Single pitch routes have lower-offs krabs in place. Single and multipitch routes. https://www.np-paklenica.hr/en/

The Croatian grades are far, far stiffer than Kalymnos. I'd say a Kalymnos 6a+ would get 5b in Paklencia. There is plenty to go at across the grades.

Chris

Carless 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Gemma_Penny:

In true UKC tradition I see the first 2 replies didn't address where you're going

This might be more useful http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingCroatia/Split.html

I was round there for a week some years ago, stayed in Omis which was fine but maybe staying near Split is better. Having a car is useful

1
jimtitt 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Carless:

> In true UKC tradition I see the first 2 replies didn't address where you're going

Well yeah, Paklenica is only a couple of hundred kilometers away. It´s Croatia though!

tjekel 08 Jul 2019
In reply to jimtitt:

Yes, Omis (with shady options) and south of Omis (for example, Brela) are good bets. The stretch of coast south of Omis (Makarska riviera) is a much nicer cost than omis itself which is a little grim, and some 20km from omis. Theres also lots of bolted sport  multipitch in the area if you are so inclined. Split is a little far away for a scooter ride, i'd prefer a rental car, as getting up to the sectors is some really steep and unsurfaced roads. It's either far to the sea or high up to the crag except for omis itself. 

Split is a big city and only near to few mainly hard sectors. 


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