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Croatia tips please

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 Danny Brown 02 Jul 2014
I'm off with my tremendous but non-climbing wide to Croatia. Any tips on bouldering and finding a partner and also accommodation - we are looking to island hop on a budget from Split. Thanks in advance
 Barney 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Danny Brown:

Paklenica about 2.5 h drive north looks good. I went there walking and spent a long time drewling at the sport routes. Actually bought the guide book with the intention to climb there this year. It has lots of friendly people there so you'll have no problem meeting people to climb with.
In reply to Danny Brown:

Go to cliffbase on Havar its flippin amazin

http://www.cliffbase.com
 ivanwindrush 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Danny Brown:

Don't know much about the climbing but Havar is a destination most people would find agreeable if not cheap. I went there on honeymoon.

Fast ferry from Split. I have always found that if you turn up in Croatia with a rucksack you will be accosted by people flogging accommodation.
OP Danny Brown 07 Jul 2014
In reply to ivanwindrush:

Thanks. We are hoping to wing it. Have a little adventure. Not sure about Hvar. It does look expensive
OP Danny Brown 07 Jul 2014
In reply to s0458892:

OK. It does look good. Might go
 jezb1 07 Jul 2014
In reply to Danny Brown:

I went to Paklenica earlier in the year with my other half, a mix of climbing and sunbathing. I wrote a bit about it here: http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/rock-climbing-in-paklenica-croatia

Hope that's of some use, really liked Croatia.
 Gasmerchant 11 Jul 2014
In reply to Danny Brown:

We recently got from honeymoon to the islands. We wanted to do one or two days climbing, and chill the rest of the time. For once a holiday with a bit of climbing and not the other way round.

If you fly to Split in the morning, you'll have plenty of time to chill out while waiting for the ferry. Get the bus from the airport (£3plus pp) which drops you off at the main bus station/ferry terminal at Split (Jadrolinia). Get your tickets (about £12 pp one way to Bol). The old Roman citadel in Split is next to the waterfront and worth wandering around in. Have lunch in the main plaza.

We stayed on Brac for a few days, at the Villa Giardino - not cheap (107 euros per night), but worth it - lush gardens, within walking distance to town/beaches. They put us in contact with a local guide and we went climbing with him for an afternoon. Swmbo on sighted her first 5b on top rope, to my surprise. You need to hire a car, or wait for busses if you want to access the two main climbing areas north of the island.

We headed to Hvar next. I'd stay either at Stari Grad next time, or hire a apartment/villa in Hvar itself. We stayed at the Amfora, but it's feeling it's age - the staff and service were great though. If you really want to do a hotel - try one of the more modern ones owned by the same chain, like the Adriana or Palace iirc. I dropped Cliffbase an email while I was there, but they merely sent an email back saying that we had to stay with them in order to climb? I'd try Hvar Adventures in Hvar (went sea-kayaking with them) as a quite of few of the guides are climbers as well.

Plenty non-climbing stuff to do on both islands, beach, MTB, kite/wind surfing, running trails etc. I'd happily go back to Brac first and do some more climbing. Go early season (June) before it gets too hot, crowded and expensive. Worth hiring a guide, as they are good value for money and fairly cheap. Also means you don't have to drag kit around with you. We only took our own shoes and harnesses. A car, as usual makes life easier.
 Reach>Talent 11 Jul 2014
In reply to Danny Brown:
If you get a chance have a look at Mljet. It has very little documented climbing that I am aware of but it has two things going for it:
- It is really pretty with some lovely lakes, lots of wife points. Take a bottle of wine and enjoy the sunshine.
- Odesseus cave which is a brilliant spot for deep water soloing. It is absolutely flipping fantastic, plus nice enough to keep the wife entertained while you fall off stuff!

Another good day out is the white water canyoning trips run out of Omis if you head that way. Enjoy your trip!
Post edited at 10:19

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