UKC

How tidal is the main cliff? Was climbing over at Meadfoot quarry today and it looked to me like the high water line was below the start of the majority of routes? Looking to get back there next week, tide times dont look great for the main cliff. Also, are the decent VS/HVS/maybe E1 routes better protected than Meadfoot? I did an utterly exhilarating [terrifying] HVS today - Third Time Lucky, that I wouldnt like to repeat any time soon. Fingers crossed for good weather, a beautiful spot.

Cheers

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

All the routes are non-tidal (although I think Stingray and Troy Tempest can be climbed as DWS so may require high tide).

Gates of Eden fits the bill - well protected, but only bottom end VS at the most.

Triton is an excellent VS - slightly bold on the first pitch.

Not climbed them but not aware that Last Exit to Torquay or Readymix are know for being underprotected.

Jay

In reply to jayjackson: Thanks for that. The Rockfax says it's tidal but it didn't look it! I'm not worried about a bit of boldness, so long as its better than 5 rubbish runners in 25m. Gates of Eden, Last Exit to Torquay and Triton are on the hit list

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Wot Jay said though I think Last Exit has good gear. It used to rely on a peg but it can be backed up if you have the strength. Gargantua isn't much harder and is really excellent as well but watch out for the sandbaggy start - I'd give it E1 5a, 5a/b, 5a.

In reply to Kafoozalem: Cool. Thursday - its on!!

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In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Yeah Meadfoot is terrifying!

Tobacco Road and Triton are both fantastic. Fandangle is a nice outing, the traverse is quite something.

In reply to Kafoozalem: Thanks for the topo of Meadfoot too, it caused me to get on TTL in the first place!

In reply to Dave 88: Yeah, the gear placements on the whole were not great. A nice place though.

Got a big list of routes to do there now, I think I'll probably only manage two a day!

In reply to Cheese Monkey: Went today, cant wait to get some more done there!