UKC

Staying at Lochcarron for the week and looks like I've got a one-day pass for the driest day for some cragging. Have heard very good things about all of the above, but which one would you to for if you had only one day for some Scottish cragging? I'm not too bothered about the distances and am mostly climbing VS/HVS

In reply to Bob Job:

Diabaig, the really classic stuff starts at about HVS.

You can't go far wrong at any of them though, unless it's pissing it down.

At a guess, Reiff and Neist would dry quicker than Diabaig. I think the main face at Diabaig faces east and most routes follow cracks, so possibly a bit damp after rain?

In reply to Bob Job: Diabeg seconded-pretty place too.

In reply to Bob Job:

I've not been to Diabaig, but Neist and Reiff are both brilliant. I'd go to Neist if I was in your position; the Financial Sector is covered in great VS/HVSs, with a few soft E1s thrown in for good measure.

In reply to Bob Job:

Diabaig is a great crag in a beuatiful situation, with loads of really good routes around E1/2.

I don't recall there being that much good easier stuff. But Route 1 & Route 2 might make a good day out if you're solid at HVS. Black Streak is definitive E1 5c with a short very well protected hard bit, and is a superb route, might be worth a go if you're feeling ambitious.

In reply to AlanLittle: Diabaig.Route two is one of the best HVS' Ive been on.Beautiful setting and the rock quality is superb.The Con Con is at the very low end of E1, very well protected and great climbing, so if your solid at HVS give that a shot aswell..

In reply to AlanLittle: Diabeig one of the best crags I've ever been to, but I haven't been to the others, where I would think there's more at HVS. My favourite routes were definitely the E1/2s.

That said, I think a solid HVS leader could easily get up Diabaig Pillar, if they like that style of climbing (it's a slab with small, positive holds, run out sections and it's very long and sustained...a great route).

I think Black Streak is significantly harder and equally wonderful. Note that the top pitch is full-on E1 5b, with a rather bold section on tiny, dubious gear (I'm thinking of the right route I think).

In reply to Bob Job:

Definitely Ardmair - very sunny, quick drying, much easier to get to than the other areas (i.e. no endless driving on single track roads), better routes than Reiff and more likely to be in condition than Diabeg or Neist.


(Failing that obvious option:

Reiff - short, quick drying routes, may have sea-grease, good choice in easier grades although climbing is fairly average apart form Seal Song and Golden Walls / Leaning Block areas.

Diabeg - long routes, may dry slowly, best at HVS upwards, more of a gamble with conditions, Pillar is no way suitable for an HVS leader.

Neist - brilliant routes with good choice in lower grades but could be very cold and as easier routes follow crags, damp too.)

In reply to Bob Job:
Diabaig dries very quickly and you can climb things when wet, as the friction is so good. Route 2 is one of the best HVS routes in the UK.
It is also closer to Lochcarron than the other crags and the Main Wall gets a lot of sun.

In reply to Bob Job:

Diabaig is amazing but like others have said only gets really good at HVS. Neist might have the edge on Reiff at VS/HVS? Reiff has plenty but more spread out along the peninsula.

You're spoiled for choice and the weather is amazing at the moment, enjoy!

P.S. I'd agree that Diabaig Pillar is a realistic ambition for a really steady HVS leader. It's intimidating for sure and you have to run it out a tiny bit sometimes, but it's just never that hard (only just nudges 5b IMO) and hey, it's a slab. It's also silly good.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Agree with that. I had a harder time on Route 2 than I did Diabaig Pillar!