/ Dolomites destination advice
my wife and I are planning to make a 1-2 week trip to the Dolomites in June. We are mainly looking at single pitch sport climbing and bouldering (my wife started climbing only last summer, so we are mainly looking at easier routes, up to 6b). Does anyone have some recommendations for nice crags to check out?
Citta dei Sassi (City of Rocks) is definetly on our list, but that is it at the moment.
We would also like to rent a small house or appartment while we stay there, any recommendations where to look (I guess similar to gites-de-france but for Italy, but I did not find any good results yet).
Thank you and a happy New Year!
Citta dei Sassi is indeed very good. Nothing to add to it in terms of sport climbing venues I'm afraid. If you're not confident / experienced on longer easy routes, then maybe consider also some via ferratas as a change of pace / way to get out of the valley & up into the spectacular mountain scenery.
We found some good apartments in Corvara through Booking dot com. Frea is also a good crag.
Generally I'd recommend doing some of the classic Via Ferrata's as the best option for really nice low stress days in the mountains.
I go quite often. My preferred location is Colfosco. It's quiet but has a few shops, restrauants, gear shops etc and is very near Corvara if you need more/bigger.
This crag is very nice for 6b stuff...
There is sport at Cinque Torri but generally I think the trad is better there.
Also 5/6a stuff at Valparola Pass.
Frea and Piz Ciavazes have some good sport routes too, many in the lower grades.
Hi Stein. Sass de Stria (Hexenstein) (search crags in logbook section) has plenty to entertain for more than a day (a long easy multipitch up South Arete; a very easy Via Ferrata for descent) & several single pitch bolted lines on the lower east face. All only a few minutes walk from the car.
As JLS I would also recommend Cinque Torri. There's plenty of good stuff there, you can save yourself a big walk in by using the chairlift and you'll also be surrounded by fascinating war remains whilst you climb. There's some very interesting sports routes there where the bolt spacing's are very large, but you can also back things up in between with some trad gear. Makes things more exciting.
As a big day out would highly recommend the via-ferrata Punta Anna and it's continuation up to the cable car station. You'll deserve a pint at the top for sure after that! Ski Club 18 via-ferrata is also very good and much shorter than Punta Anna, couple of hours rather than a full day.
Edit - with June check that the cable car from the top of the Punta Anna is running before committing. It might not be open early season and it would be a long and unwelcome walk back down if it's not.
I've driven up the road to Cinque Torri outside of peak season, is that not an option any more?
During our last visit this was still the case. However, depending on snow it might not be open all the way up.
Otherwise I second JLS' and the Sass di Stria remmendation, although the latter may have snow at the base this time of the year. Also from Falzarego, the west face of the first tower offers a nice, accessible and easy normal route to a 'real' summit (3 pitches of max. 4- UIAA). There's also single pitches un the south face of Picollo Lagazoi (besides easy multipitches on the trapez and the South face, with via del buco having quite a few bolts).
If things go awry wether or condition wise, both Trieste and Arco are not to far away.
Thank you! I already found your website through an article here on ukclimbing. We will plan our trip comming days.
Excellent suggestions for crags, thank you everyone!
Dolomites seems like a weird place to go for single pitch and bouldering.
Val Pennavaire makes more sense, surely:
Well it is only 4-5h driving from where we currently live, the mountains look spectacular and neither of us have ever been there. Seems like there is enough climbing for us to enjoy, which we will mix with hinking.
Thank you for the suggestion, it is only 6h driving from us, seems like an ideal location to go next winter.
Support this, it is just great walking, hanging around and admiring the scenery. So why not combine it with single pitch stuff? For bouldering, take pads... In the areas I know including citta di sassi landing areas are distinctly uneven.
Still I would recommend some of the minor multipitches with bolted belays and some bolts and maybe grade IV only to get the feeling.
Oh, well that's something else entirely. I assumed it was for a pure climbing trip.
Maps of the dolomites often have little icons for bolted walls (usually single pitch), they vary from very good to tiny beginners crags but from memory, they were all pretty close to the road. So one option is just to buy a map or two of the area when you get to Italy and hit a few random crags with nothing more than the map to get you there, though of course that does mean you run the risk of having to leave a quickdraw behind if you accidentally get on something too hard.
To be honest, there is lots of single pitch to go at. Sure it might not be the first place that springs to mind but have you take a look at Sass di Roccia at Laste? Knowing your into your hard sport I reckon you should - it's a bit of a hidden gem, climbing on hard calcarious limestone, not Dolomite, in an awesome setting with 250 routes + ranging from 5c to 8a something...
That does look good! Can't seem to find much in the way of info/pictures though, any ideas?
This week's Friday Night Video is an extra from the new film from Dark Sky Media: Undiscovered. The film explores Dave's obsession with exploration and climbing new routes in some of Scotland's most remote and scenic corners. This outtake...