/ Dolomites destination advice

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Stein 07 Jan 2020

Hi all,

my wife and I are planning to make a 1-2 week trip to the Dolomites in June. We are mainly looking at single pitch sport climbing and bouldering (my wife started climbing only last summer, so we are mainly looking at easier routes, up to 6b). Does anyone have some recommendations for nice crags to check out?

Citta dei Sassi (City of Rocks) is definetly on our list, but that is it at the moment.

We would also like to rent a small house or appartment while we stay there, any recommendations where to look (I guess similar to gites-de-france but for Italy, but I did not find any good results yet).

Thank you and a happy New Year!

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AlanLittle 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Citta dei Sassi is indeed very good. Nothing to add to it in terms of sport climbing venues I'm afraid. If you're not confident / experienced on longer easy routes, then maybe consider also some via ferratas as a change of pace / way to get out of the valley & up into the spectacular mountain scenery.

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mal_meech 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

We found some good apartments in Corvara through Booking dot com.  Frea is also a good crag.

Generally I'd recommend doing some of the classic Via Ferrata's as the best option for really nice low stress days in the mountains.

Brigata Tridentina (VF) (VF3B) and Via Delle Trincee/La Mesola (VF4B) are both excellent days out for end of season. They get VERY busy at peak times though.

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JLS 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

I go quite often. My preferred location is Colfosco. It's quiet but has a few shops, restrauants, gear shops etc and is very near Corvara if you need more/bigger.

This crag is very nice for 6b stuff...

Sass de Beita (Castello di Andraz)

There is sport at Cinque Torri but generally I think the trad is better there.

Also 5/6a stuff at Valparola Pass.

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CornishLau 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Frea and Piz Ciavazes have some good sport routes too, many in the lower grades.

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buxtoncoffeelover 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Hi Stein. Sass de Stria (Hexenstein) (search crags in logbook section) has plenty to entertain for more than a day (a long easy multipitch up South Arete; a very easy Via Ferrata for descent) & several single pitch bolted lines on the lower east face. All only a few minutes walk from the car.

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Northern Star 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

As JLS I would also recommend Cinque Torri.  There's plenty of good stuff there, you can save yourself a big walk in by using the chairlift and you'll also be surrounded by fascinating war remains whilst you climb.  There's some very interesting sports routes there where the bolt spacing's are very large, but you can also back things up in between with some trad gear.  Makes things more exciting.

As a big day out would highly recommend the via-ferrata Punta Anna and it's continuation up to the cable car station.  You'll deserve a pint at the top for sure after that!  Ski Club 18 via-ferrata is also very good and much shorter than Punta Anna, couple of hours rather than a full day.

Edit - with June check that the cable car from the top of the Punta Anna is running before committing.  It might not be open early season and it would be a long and unwelcome walk back down if it's not.

Post edited at 16:30
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Mike-W-99 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Northern Star:

I've driven up the road to Cinque Torri outside of peak season, is that not an option any more?

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tjekel 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Mike-W-99:

During our last visit this was still the case. However, depending on snow it might not be open all the way up.

Otherwise I second JLS' and the Sass di Stria remmendation, although the latter may have snow at the base this time of the year. Also from Falzarego, the west face of the first tower offers a nice, accessible and easy normal route to a 'real' summit (3 pitches of max. 4- UIAA). There's also single pitches un the south face of Picollo Lagazoi (besides easy multipitches on the trapez and the South face, with via del buco having quite a few bolts).

If things go awry wether or condition wise, both Trieste and Arco are not to far away. 

Enjoy! 

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beardy mike 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein: I will throw my hat into the ring for accommodation, check out www.casa-alfredino.co.uk , we have a decent amount of single pitch near us. Passo Fedaia slabs, Sass della Bore  at Caprile, Sass di Roccia (hard but flippin world class rock) at Laste, Andraz, Falzarego, Cinque Torre, Pelmetto (not on here yet but there plenty there in you grade) Val di Gares, and many others. I'm not sure if I will be there in June yet, as I will be going back and forth but feel free to contact me. There are other spots directly in our valley which are good or which I hope to renovate soon although that could take some time!

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Stein 08 Jan 2020
In reply to beardy mike:

Thank you! I already found your website  through an article here on ukclimbing. We will plan our trip comming days.

Excellent suggestions for crags, thank you everyone!

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MischaHY 08 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Dolomites seems like a weird place to go for single pitch and bouldering. 

Val Pennavaire makes more sense, surely: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/val_pennavaire-1493 

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Stein 08 Jan 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Well it is only 4-5h driving from where we currently live, the mountains look spectacular and neither of us have ever been there. Seems like there is enough climbing for us to enjoy, which we will mix with hinking.

Thank you for the suggestion, it is only 6h driving from us, seems like an ideal location to go next winter.

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tjekel 08 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Support this, it is just great walking, hanging around and admiring the scenery. So why not combine it with single pitch stuff? For bouldering, take pads... In the areas I know including citta di sassi landing areas are distinctly uneven.

Still I would recommend some of the minor multipitches with bolted belays and some bolts and maybe grade IV only to get the feeling. 

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MischaHY 08 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Oh, well that's something else entirely. I assumed it was for a pure climbing trip. 

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henwardian 08 Jan 2020
In reply to Stein:

Maps of the dolomites often have little icons for bolted walls (usually single pitch), they vary from very good to tiny beginners crags but from memory, they were all pretty close to the road. So one option is just to buy a map or two of the area when you get to Italy and hit a few random crags with nothing more than the map to get you there, though of course that does mean you run the risk of having to leave a quickdraw behind if you accidentally get on something too hard. 

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beardy mike 08 Jan 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

To be honest, there is lots of single pitch to go at. Sure it might not be the first place that springs to mind but have you take a look at Sass di Roccia at Laste? Knowing your into your hard sport I reckon you should - it's a bit of a hidden gem, climbing on hard calcarious limestone, not Dolomite, in an awesome setting with 250 routes + ranging from 5c to 8a something...

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MischaHY 09 Jan 2020
In reply to beardy mike:

That does look good! Can't seem to find much in the way of info/pictures though, any ideas? 

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beardy mike 09 Jan 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Here is smoe more info about it although it's not got masses of info right there. They sell the regional guide which is pretty good. Lots of other areas to play in and IMO worth a visit... but then I would say that...

https://www.larivolta.it/falesie/laste

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