UKC

/ Dolomites Recommendations

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Geoff82 - on 25 Jun 2018

Hi can anyone recommend some good quality sport climbs up to 6a - 6b in the Dolomites?Heading down there with a freind who hasn’t climbed for some time and want to spend some time clipping bolts on good rock for a few days at the start.

 

Many thanks 

 

 

JLS on 25 Jun 2018
In reply to Geoff82:

Here is nice...
Sas de Beita, Castello di Andraz#overview

Here has the most choice...
Citta dei Sassi (City of Rocks)#maps
I like Sectors 7 - Sasso Renato & 10 - Sasso Gabriel Embolo the most.


Also, this wee boulder is worth a visit for some warm-up climbing...
Sasso dei Bambini#photos

AlanLittle - on 25 Jun 2018
In reply to JLS:

Cita dei Sassi is indeed good for single pitch sport, and just across the Road Delenda Carthago (6b) on the First Sella Tower is supposed to be good for bolted multipitch (haven't done it though)

joshtee25 - on 26 Jun 2018
In reply to Geoff82:

Depends what you're looking for - multi pitch (within that long/short?) /single pitch? Quiet/roadside?

Multipitch sport: Via Cinquantenario GAM (6b) be prepared for long runouts on the 4+ pitches, and the 3+ traverse is scary and pretty much unprotected/unprotectable for most of the 40 metres. Awesome long multipitch though (500 ish metres of climbing, 17 pitches)
Some of the stuff on the sella towers would be worth doing - good for a half day and short walk in.

Same goes for any/all the routes on  Oscura della Luna (7-9 pitches well protected sport)

For single pitch - Cinque torre for amazing atmosphere, selection of settings, ability to always climb in the shade or sun. Some multipitch sport there too (only 3-5 pitches but good to warm up on and with a rifugio nearby for lunch!)

Sass de Stria/Hexenstein for a very chilled roadside cragging - hardest climbs there are 6a ish - though there's a 6c multipitch if you fancy it that tops out on a summit which is nice  


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