UKC

Hi,

We're off to sardinia, staying in Cala Gonone. Excited about the trip.

Does anyone have any recommendations for awesome long bolted multi pitch routes that go at French 4c/5a. We are both very happy leading VS 4c. I've been looking around and most the sport climbing seems to be a bit harder than I'd want to lead.

We're going caving and canyoning, as well as climbing so we only have a few days for climbing, and will be fairly tight on weight. If most of the bigger climbing is harder then we'll just stick to the easier single pitch stuff.

Thanks for any advice

In reply to cavemancolumbus:

'Sound of silence' at Surtana is very good. F5+/6a I think. You should do it.

In reply to Toerag:

Yeah sound of silence is one of my favourite ever climbs. Beautiful.

In reply to cavemancolumbus:

Sound of Silence is great.
I think the lack of other suggestions may be because there isn't much at those grades. However, I don't know how much sport experience you have in the uk or in the mediterranean, but from my limited experience of uk grades I think the grades are significantly softer in Sardinia (and well bolted). So you could see how thing go and maybe consider exploring a bit more into the 5's. In which case La Poltrona is a spectacular amphitheatre just up the road from Cala Gonone with some fun multipitch slabs.

In reply to cavemancolumbus:

If you have the guide it shows some multi pitch climbs at Margheddi. I tried one there called non-stop. Definitely avoid that - from my log book "Did the (long) first pitch with no gear other than a crappy thread. Then abbed back down off a rotten tree at the 'ab station' as there didn't appear to be any gear above it as well." I still remember that nearly three years later!

From memory we did find quite a lot of single pitch to do and the odd 2 or 3 pitch climb. As pointed out above the bolting is generally good and the grades are a little soft compared to say portland.

I have the pietra di luna guide and I think i also picked up a local guide from here - https://goo.gl/maps/UTgbA9RjS6B2

The guy in the climbing shop was friendly and had the topo for sale. Good icecream nearby as well!

In reply to cavemancolumbus:

I definitely recommend you DON'T do what me and two mates did - set off to climb Sound of Silence, then change minds at the car park and go off to do a 7-pitch grade VI trad line on nearby Monte Oddeu instead, with only a one-sentence route description in Italian (which none of speak). Much vertical bush-whacking, getting lost, getting dark and a slightly epic retreat (from a point we later realised was only one pitch from the top).... happy days

In reply to ewanjp:


Are the grades the same throughout the island in your opinion? We found Jerzu relatively stiff.

In reply to cavemancolumbus:

Sound of Silence is really good though slightly harder than you are looking for, but there might be some easier routes at Surtana.

Also recommend Lughe e Vida Mia in the Golo Su Gorruppu gorge. Again slightly harder but only one pitch of 6a, the rest is easier and its well bolted. Don't forget to ask permission for climbing in the gorge. If you fancy an easier scrambly day out then I'd recommend the scramble through the gorge itself, (which would be the approach to the climb from the north) you don't need ropes for the gorge.

In reply to Toerag:

I think it varies. I found the grades at Masua in the South West much stiffer than at Cala Gonone and around Santa Maria Navarese in the North East.

In reply to Toerag:

We were mainly round cala gonone, so not sure about the rest of the grades. I'm pretty rubbish and we found lots to entertain us tho.