UKC

Over the years, I got the impression that for many UK climbers the Alps end around Innsbruck or Wilder Kaiser in the east. However, a look at the map shows there's another 400 km of limestone left, with some of the highest quality limestone climbing anywhere on some real mountains. I thus put together multipiitch climbs > 5 pitches (up- 50 pitches, but more often 5 - 25 pitches) in the grade range open to humans... 4b - 6b approx., with at least some bolts.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=3927

Please enjoy. And to those with some knowledge of the area, please feel free to contribute suggestions here or through PM. The list is currently limited mainly by availlability of climbs in the database... but still provides climbing for close to a lifetime. 

Karwendel and parts of Styria are still under construction. 

Thomas

Very interesting (enough to illicit my first post on here for years), just planning the summer trip so this could sway things, thank you very much. 

Great work, thanks for this! 

I'm quite sure you will not be embarrassed for both scenery and climbing. The beer is also reasonable and much cheaper than in France, Switzerland, or Italy 😉

Sold!

Maybe I should apply for a job with the tourism board😉

This is a proper ticklist, and all within 2-6hrs drive from my house. Brilliant effort! 

Brilliant effort. I wonder if UKC are interested in you turning (a section of) it into a destination article.

For you, most of the climbs there are scrambles. I'm sure there's other guys who could provide you with another ticklist for grades VII to X in exqctly the same mountain ranges. This one is for bumblies. 

I needed a foto model for this. 😉

Have to say, one of the best days out I had last year was on Yellow Edge in the Dollies - only 6+ but what a route! Doesn't always have to be hard  

That being said I wouldn't mind the harder list as well! 

You can be almost sure there is really good harder climbing in most of the walls and areas presented in the list. I just did not want to put climbs there that I will only climb in my next incarnation. 

Thanks from me too ! Living south of Munich makes this very relevant !!

Thomas, many thanks for that, great work. 

I suspect that many Brits struggle with the extra distance involved in going further East and particularly with the lack of guidebooks in English. The Panico guides, and the Dachstein one you brought to my attention last year, have good topos but also plenty of text, and if you don’t have reasonable German then you miss a lot. Panico’s ‘Best of Genuss’ are good for mere mortals and I’m waiting for band 2. Three guides that do have some English to augment the topos and may help those of us challenged by lack of German are Alpinverlag’s ‘Klettern im leichten Fels’ and Rock Project’s ’Salzkammergut’ and Salzberg/Berchtesgaden.

I’ll be back in July and again in September. Really looking forward to it. Still hoping to go to Wadi Rum in two weeks but that is looking doubtful...

cheers, David

I completely understand the difficulty with German. One guidebook that has a full translation online for free is Xeis-Auslese. https://xeis-auslese.at/produkt/xeis-auslese-2-auflage-english/. You need the a german book for the topos though, but all text has been translated.

The other viable option is to look for the route descriptions and topos on Bergsteigen.com and let google translate. Together with the pics it should get you to the start of the routes with a reasonable amount of detours - or none at all. 

That's an excellent effort on your part: many thanks

It is not really finished... 

So: more to look forward to - even better!

Thanks Thomas. I’ve not been that far east along Ennstal so don’t have the guide, but perhaps another year.

My German is just about ok, but I certainly use Bergsteigen. Their tours database is preety good. Never thought of using google translate though!

Very good - thank you!

Just in case anyone is at risk of misunderstanding the "with at least some bolts" part - many of these are *not* sport routes!

Amazing! Perfect inspiration ticklist! 

... Yes, some of these only have bolted belays and a bolt or three per pitch. Others are really sport routes, albeit in alpine surroundings... So bad weather, rockfall, difficult or ardous descents may be an issue. Starting below your grade and having reserves is a good idea. 

Gesäuse especially and Hochschwab are two groups that rival the best...