UKC

/ Easy bolted multipitch in Pyrenees or Alps.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Alex Pryor - on 16 May 2018

Looking for some stress-free multipitch climbing grades 4-6a for summer holiday with my wife. 

Ideally bolted and not too exposed, something like Handegg, Ailedroide, or Dent d'Orlu. Also enjoyed the limestone in the Aravis. Somewhere relatively quiet would be good too.

Was thinking of Pyrenees for a change, but anywhere suitable in the Alps would do too.

Any suggestions appreciated....

john arran - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Alex Pryor:

You clearly know something of the Dent d'Orlu and there are enough granite routes at those grades to keep you going for a very long while, but also in Ariège there's shorter multi-pitch granite at Auzat and there has been a lot of recent development in Haute Ariège too. See http://cafma.free.fr/plan.htm for loads of online hand-drawn topos. Lots of multi-pitch limestone too in the valleys nearer to Tarascon, but in midsummer you'd really need to wait for a cloudy day for those.

tjekel - on 17 May 2018
In reply to Alex Pryor:

Just some suggestions: Gastlosen, Bergsee,Furka & Ticino in Switzerland; Ötztal, Zillertal, Dachstein in Austria, Northern Wetterstein / Alpspitz & Berchtesgaden in Germany ...

Paul Sagar - on 17 May 2018
c9smith8 - on 17 May 2018
In reply to Alex Pryor:

There's loads of easy stuff (6a and below) at Le Rocher de la Chaux, near morzine. Great little crag, well bolted.

Alex Pryor - on 11 Jun 2018

Thanks for all the suggestions and apologies for the delay in responding!

John - yes we spent 4 weeks at Orlu, climbing mostly on the Dent but also Calames and other local crags. The highlight was Les Enfants with Alison Cowley which she wrote up here  https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/les_enfants_de_la_dalle_ariegravege_pyreacuteneacutee-227. So done a lot of the routes but a long while ago so may well be worth a return visit, especially now there seems to be a lot more in the Ariege Rockfax. Do you know if there's anything similar in the western Pyrenees?

Paul - have also been to Ailefroide a couple of times, but again may well be worth another visit. Particularly enjoyed the very long routes (eg on the Face Sud Draye)

c9smith8 - don't know this crag, will have to investigate. Is it multi-pitch, how many routes and do you know which guide(s) it's in?

tjekel - I've climbed on Gastlosen and in the Furka Pass (though I prefer Grimsel ;9). I've also climbed a bit in Austria, but there usually seemed a lot of hard walking to reach the crags. But I've got the Schweiz Plaisir and Austrian Genuess guides so I'll have a look at the other areas you suggested.

Thanks again to all of you
Alex

 

 

c9smith8 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Alex Pryor:

There is both multi and single-pitch. I only did single pitch that day, but the multi-pitch looked good, if not better quality. Has a fair few routes, certainly enough in the lower grades to entertain for a day. 

Info on guidebooks on the ukc page:  Le Rocher de la Chaux

But most of the routes have a little metal name plate at the base, so I just used this combined with UKC for the grades.

Post edited at 21:52
LeeWood - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Alex Pryor:

Mid Pyrenees options:

Cavallers granite just into spain is well worth a visit, starts from 1800m. A handful are entirely bolted but semi-equipped otherwise. The best are 1hr walk-in up from the dam, with only 1 rappel to descend. 

Cap de Long granite is also easy access from 1800m with 2 rappels to escapê. Not so long but diverse and characterful.


This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.