UKC

Ecrins - Aiguillette de Lauzet / Beau Quartiers

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 Shapeshifter 14 Feb 2019

I know it's a bit obscure, but I wondered if anybody who has done Beau Quartiers (Beau Quartiers (ED1)) might be able to give a bit of guidance on the small rack needed to complement the bolts and if anybody has local knowledge, in an average year, is it usually clear of snow by mid May. Was planning a go at it potentially in May and would be good to be able to save weight on flight baggage if it's just wires needed, rather than bigger stuff.

Thanks in anticipation.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Hi there I did it quite a few years ago, I didn't take any extra gear just used the bolts, it gets 1 star in the Cambon guide which means that it is fully bolted, I have never taken extra gear on a 1 star route's and always been fine, 2 stars is normally ok if a little run out in places or just older bolts.

May is very early for the Cerces, I live just down the road and don't start thinking of climbing there till July and August, it should be clear of snow, but it could be quite cold especially till the sun comes over.

Another option or back up plan could be a route on the Tete D'Aval some great climbing and its south facing and May can be a good time as not to hot like summer?

Cheers Rob

 Martin Haworth 14 Feb 2019
In reply to Shapeshifter:

I've done it a couple of times but it's been a while. I remember it being typical "mountain" bolting, so bolts where you needed them. I do remember I used some gear on a wide crack on one of the top pitches and a wire on one pitch. If it's within your grade you'll be fine, if your nervous then a few wires and 3 small to medium cams. It should be clear of snow, although I retreated in a snow storm on it once, think it was June. It's a scrappy start but improves as you get higher, great looking crag.

OP Shapeshifter 15 Feb 2019
In reply to ecrinscollective:

Cheers Rob much appreciated. I’ve just bought a place in Briancon so will try it later in the year than May. Just finally would you know if there are many English speaking climbers living in the Durrance valley? 

OP Shapeshifter 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Cheers Martin that’s good to know thanks. 

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Hi, there are quite a few English speaking climbers around here, we are spread out a bit Briançon, Vallouise etc, a mix of from the UK and America and quite a few Dutch who all seam to speak good english, we all tend to know one another or of one another so feel free to drop me a message on here or at rob@dream-trails.com and maybe we can catch up.

cheers

OP Shapeshifter 17 Feb 2019
In reply to ecrinscollective:

Cheers Rob, have dropped you a line to your email. 


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