UKC

Hi, I’m interested in going to Yosemite to climb on El Capitan. I’m experienced in multi pitches and trad. I don’t climb hard - severe and occasional hard severe. Is there anything within that grade on El Capitan? if not, anything just as cool on a big wall in yosemite?

In a word, no. The easiest route on El Cap is about E1.

Snake Dike (5.7) on Half Dome is maybe more like VS but maybe more attainable? I'm sure someone who knows the Valley better might know of some easier things, but possibly nothing as classic.

There are a few 3 and 4 pitch routes of that grade in the Valley and several more at Tuolumne, about 2 gours drive away.

Pine Line, at the base of El Cap is a 1 pitch H Severe, so you can say you have climbed on El Cap....

I asked a similar question a few years ago and resigned myself to aspiring to Cathedral Peak.

Not got there yet…….

Royal Arches is a 600m 5.7 (HS ish) with a small aid section (set up for trad climbers). Maybe not the best choice if inexperienced on such long routes.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862881/royal-arches-510-or-57-a0

Snake Dyke is even less good for the inexperienced.

The Grack is probably the best line in the valley for the OP... just one slightly run out slab otherwise glorious and friendly crack climbing.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862623/the-grack-center

There is a ton of great stuff in the valley at VS. Throw the meadows into the mix and cathedral peak, and you will have a blast. I rate snake dyke as one of my favourite climbs. Just take someone who is climbing at a slightly higher grade with you.

El Cap goes at VS and A1 but at VS you will be aiding most of it.

I recall a conversation with someone who told me there is a route that goes from the valley floor to the top, in the area, iirc, bridal veil falls, in the lower grades.

Far more experienced Yosemite climbers on here then me but:

Don't underestimate East Buttress at HVS/E1 ish. 

Shedloads in The Valley at easier trad grades. If it was me I'd head to somewhere like Manure Pile Buttress (Don't read up on Chouinairds belay ledge antics before going there, you won't wan't to touch anything even 50+ years on) on the first day to get your eye in, much more comparable to UK stuff, prior to subjecting yourself to wild Yosemite expsure!

I personally don’t think the lower grade routes in Yosemite are that great, I would take a big Lakes or Wales mountain route over something on Manure Pile Buttress any day. But there are one or two. In addition actually staying in the Valley is an organisational nightmare, so my suggestion would be to make it part of a tour rather than focusing all your trip there. 

I would totally recommend Tuolomne Meadows, it is stunningly beautiful, great climbing and camping, much wilder feeling than Yosemite Valley. Cathedral Peak is one of the best days out at the grade anywhere. Lovers Leap and Lake Tahoe are also good to visit. Red Rocks is cool too. 

Do bear in mind that “too hot to climb” is absolutely a thing in California and that perfect temps in one place may means you’d boil in another. Mountain Project has good temperature graphs which will help a lot in planning. 

Here’s an article on the best long easy routes in the US for some inspiration:

https://archive.is/2023.05.21-092230/https://www.climbing.com/places/classi...

Nothing on El Cap I'm certain but elsewhere:

Suggested above, Royal Arches is a fabulous day out but by UK standards it's a big climb with 15 pitches and at 5.7 and with an aid pendulum move might exceed your Hard Severe ambitions? What's more, the way off is either via many abseils or a l-o-n-g and tortuous descent with some exposed sections.

From my limited experience I'd suggest:

Munginella at Five Open Books. 3 pitches.

Regular Route at Sunnyside Bench, 3 pitches. Says it's 5.4 on UKC but I'd say a bit harder with a move that's maybe Hard Severe)

Not truly "The Valley" but up at Tuolomne Meadows, which is so gorgeous you should go, the moderate routes can feel run out but I'd recommend an exception, SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak. A superb day out with a nice approach walk, 5 or 6 pitches of no more than Hard Severe climbing and a safe easy descent.

Whatever happens I'd say you can't fail to enjoy the area.

I'd second Cathedral Peak as an amazing day out with the popular way up (i forget the name) feeling to me low end VS at most, along with the easier Tenaya Peak. 

I agree with Royal Arches, low grade but on paper I was leading far harder than 5.7 when I did it and it certainly felt a challenge, not to mention the 11 (I think?) ab pitches to get back down. 

Whatever you do avoid Labor Day weekend! Think Bank Holiday Keswick on steroids!

Edit:Managed to reply to Martin rather than the OP as intended!

You won't really get the full Yosemite experience at your grades.  Even at HVS or E1 there's quite a bit if aid usually...which is a whole other skill set.  That's before adjusting for the fact that mostly UK climbers get a bit spanked by the rather smooth granite, and have to drop back several grades.

My recommendation would be to visit the valley for a couple of days but as a tourist.  Hike up to the falls, walk up half Dome, stay in camp 4 and watch people send midnight lightning, lie in the meadow with binoculars on El Cap.

Then go to Toulumne and Cathedral peak.  The latter is much more doable, and there are more reasonable routes in Toulumne that do finish on top (and it's a wonderful place).  It'll also be cooler up there.  

Don't be tempted into being guided up The Nose...you'll spend a miserable couple of days jugging

That's not true. A solid VS leader well rounded on UK grit and granite will find two pages of routes on a Mountain Project search for safe or safish starred trad in the valley below 5.8.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder

I'd describe myself as a solid VS leader and have been to Yosemite Valley to climb about ten times and still have plenty to do. I've climbed even more in Tuolumne.

As for The Nose it's best to be a solid E1 leader and partner with someone more experienced...then about half the route can be rock climbed. Even for a jugging up a route on El Cap (the Nose isn't the best route for this), I think for most that would be an amazing experience, but it would dent the pocket (Yosemite guides have a monopoly and don't come cheap)

It's best to walk off the very long way on Royal Arches unless really experienced on multiple abseils (not by the tortuous exposed descent Martin described). There are too many rescues and near misses on those abseils (including some friends of mine). The route seems unique to me as a HS climb having pitches on every technical grade between a short and safe 4c and a super bold sustained 3b (VDiff tech standard). The aid bit is short and easy A0.

Um, cross purposes. You're talking about a "solid Vs leader"; the op is a severe leader with sometimes hs.  That's very different - we're talking 5.4-5.6 not 5.8

And I don't think cragging on manure pile is really the valley experience.

So I'd stand by my advice

I agree, it's not, but a good "First day shake off the jetlag intro"

So I stand by mine! ;p

Without wanting to sound alarmist.  The absence of a long list of routes is telling........ A few folks have mentioned Cathedral Peak in Toulumne as a possibility.  A great climb for sure, in a beautiful situation and you may be tempted. But be warned, it is not casual, it is Alpine, it's a long hike in/out and folks have died in storms up there.

'Just sayin'

Take care,

Steve

Good point. 

I was in awe of locals doing Cathedral Peak, Tenaya Peak and the Mathes Crest in 24hrs. Also easy to be lured into a false sense of security by locals casually soloing Cathedral in trainers etc.

Someone also mentioned Snake Dike as a possible route for the OP - a climb so run out that a woman fell off it and ended up getting her foot so badly smashed up it had to be amputated. 

The style of climbing on Californian granite is quite tough for even decent European climbers to get to grips with. It’s sustained, slippery and can require confidence in techniques we don’t use much over here. A lot of routes are pretty burly and awkward. I wouldn’t say don’t go if you’re climbing the grades the OP does - after all, it’s a beautiful and fun place to visit - but rather from a climbing perspective it might be ultimately more enjoyable and satisfying to get more skilled here in the U.K. before hitting the West Coast. A climber who can get up a lot of the classic gritstone HVSs in good style will have a far better time out there than one who can’t. 

There's lots of good advice from the replies here. For sure, the higher grades take you to situations well beyond HS, but just being there and climbing easier routes is an experience worth having. The lower valley crags - Manure Pile Buttress - After Six with 6 pitches,  After Seven variant/bypass if the former is busy, and Nutcracker, classic 5.8 but with a tough crux;  Glacier Point Apron of which the 3-pitch Grack is well worth its 3 stars; Munginella at Five Open Books has been mentioned and a pleasant intro, Sunniside Bench area and Knob Hill are all accessible at your grades. Once you've got the hang of the granite style its simply a thrill to climb in the Valley, and Royal Arches Route is a memorable day out - the pendulum looks more intimidating than it is and the abseil descents are well bolted. Snake Dike is a long haul just to reach the start and weather can change rapidly from the west. 

Most of all, be safe and have fun, enjoy the vibe, Valley climbers are friendly, chatty and helpful, but the longer routes need respect. 

Dave

Nutcracker really isn't for a Severe leader with the occasional HS.  I wouldn't have argued with HVS overall!

I would not recommend Snake Dyke. This route is run-out on widely spaced bolts. Last year a New Zealand climber fell and sustained life altering severe injury. Severe/hard severe leading ability is not sufficient for that type of route The easiest free route on El Capitan (although not considered an El Capitan route) is the East Butress 5.10+.

Swan Slab Gully 5.6 is a possibility. Swan Slab (within easy reach of 'New' Camp 4) would introduce you to Yosemite climbing within the scope of your stated ability. 

Cathedral Peak is in an Alpine Setting and is not to be underestimated. Climber's have died on the desent. Down climbing from the summit requires experience and confidence. There are 5.5 - 5.6 climbs in Tuolomne that can be adequately protected (cracks). Tuolomne is notorious for very run-out slabs. On paper (without never climbed there) 5.6, 5.7, 5.8 on Tuolomne slabs may appear to be possible. However, I have known European climbers who have climbed 5.11+ back off unprotected 5.6 Tuolomne slabs because of their seriousness. 

Holdless Horror 5.6 Dozier Dome is a 4 pitch *** crack climb in Tuolomne. I did this on my birthday last October. It's an abseil descent. I would recommend this route. October was late in the season but the weather was perfect. September is a good time to go. Far fewer climbers than Yosemite without the urban setting. A wild, unspoilt, beautiful place with memorable routes.

Ah yes I'd completely forgotten about Glacier Point! Again, confidence with multiple abs is needed even though it's bolted.

Beyond what the OP is asking for but "Marginal" has quite possibly my favourite route description ever.

"No holds and no gear"

Fair point.

I agree with seankenny's thoughts here. Judging by your logbook, there are perhaps half a dozen routes that are good and within your current capability to lead in Yosemite valley. As mentioned above, good starters would be Sunnyside Bench (mostly easy but great ambience when the waterfalls are going), Munginella, The Grack, and some of the Swan Slab routes. After Six is very polished and definitely VS; everything else on Manure Pile is at least HVS. Other routes which seem suitable judging by numbers alone, Arrowhead Spire for example, can be committing and complicated days out. None of these are outstanding classics either: Scotland has much better trad. climbing at these grades.

Royal Arches and Snake Dike are outstanding but both are HVSish in overall difficulty in my view. I've done them with a partner of about your standard who had a great time seconding but was happy to not be leading.

Millions of people visit Yosemite valley for the sightseeing, it's a stunning place, albeit a victim of it's popularity. Worth a few days with a solid partner as part of a road trip to other climbing areas in California and/or Nevada? If you're inspired you could spend a couple of years working on your crack and other skills before reconsidering El Cap.