In reply to chris sm:
> (In reply to bpmclimb)
>
> ... and maybe leaving Glacial Point at E4?
>
I recently did a couple more new routes on the Glacis (I know, terrible timing) which need the grades confirming, and which throw the grades of neighbouring routes into (further) question. Could really do with some second opinions from any mid-extreme bold slab leaders out there (or some estimates of the technical grades on top-rope).
Sleight of Hand (currently E2 5c): are we really forced into this grade due to the position of the crux relative to the gear? There is a microwire placement above the slot.
Rain Rain Rain (new route, just R of SofH, estimate E3 6a): Similar to, but technically harder than SofH and a little bolder (it also uses the big slot and then a microwire placement). If SofH is E2 5c then this must be E3 at least - but are the moves really 6a or just top end 5c?
Glacial Point (currently E4 5c): Should this be E3, since the use of the cam placement has become normal practice? Especially when compared to ....
Glacial Point Direct (new route, estimate E4 5c): At least as hard as GP (I think), and bolder; there are microwire placements, but they are exceedingly marginal. First reliable gear is at 8m.
Lastly, how does Ender's Game (unrepeated, provisionally E4 5c) fit into this picture. The moves are 5c, but does the boldness warrant E4?