UKC

Favourite easy bolted venues in France

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 Rog Wilko 25 Aug 2019

By easy I mean 3s, 4s or 5. I'll kick off with this one:

Mount Coudon sector Baudouvin. There are 28 routes, only three 6s.  18 of the 28 are given 3*.

 full stottie 25 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Oh yes, a thread I can appreciate! I had a good time at Mt Coudon, so it would be on my list too.

Here goes, but without your detailed breakdown, just crags where I've had a lovely bumbly kind of day:

Orgon - Mur de Quatre and Breche Sud

Seynes - Rouge Gorge Left hand end

La Turbie - Dalle a l'Oiseau

Dentelles de Montmirail - Rocher du Grande Travers

Ubrieux

Dave

 Darron 25 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Crikey....... that place is now defo on the tick list,

 tjekel 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Montagne Ste Victoire hands down... 

 tjekel 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Forgot Aureille in the Alpilles... Although mainly 5's, but at a friendly angle. Collias has lots in the grades as well, albeit some a little polished. 

Gone for good 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Martinswand near Gerardmer in Alsace Lorraine is a fabulous venue. Lots of 4s and 5s amongst the 6s and 7s.

http://www.escalade-alsace.com/bddpv/bddpv_falaise.php?fid=105

Post edited at 17:39
 Mark Bull 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Auzat and  Calamès in the Ariege both have lots of very good 5's (though not so much in the 3's or 4's).

Gone for good 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Clecy in the Suisse Normandie is a fabulous venue as well.  Lots of 4s and 5s amongst the 7cs!!

https://climbingaway.fr/fr/site-escalade/clecy-rochers-des-parcs

 Alan Bates 27 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Here's one just over an hour away from me, I visited it last month and have uploaded to UKC. A really good venue, both generally and in terms of your criteria.

Casteil - Les Gorges du Cady  Casteil - Les Gorges du Cady

OP Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Alan Bates:

That looks great Alan. I see it's granite. Does it have proper holds or is it just smearing and reverse palming?

OP Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to full stottie:

Familiar with some of those, not all. 

OP Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to tjekel:

Thanks Thomas - thought I could rely on you to contribute!

OP Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Gone for good:

My friend Brian Evans has recommended this but I have yet to visit. 

OP Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Mark Bull:

Sector Papy is it? Superb wall of 5s.

OP Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Gone for good:

Planning to drop in here in a couple of weeks from now.

 Alan Bates 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

The topo says granite, it is actually Gneiss. 

Very good climbing with great mix of routes, sure there are some smearing slabs in the grade 6's, but in the grades 5 and below these have positive holds/edges and there are some really good and positive corners, arêtes etc. I'm hoping to go and do the 6 pitch / 150m route next week, which is apparently all 5a/5b and for all the topo says abseil descent I am well advised (by someone who has done it several times), that it is a) a great route and b) ok to walk down from the top of it.  

 Mark Bull 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> Sector Papy is it? Superb wall of 5s.

Yes, that's the best bit, though there are more good 5s scattered about the other sectors too. 

 Adam Perrett 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4053

La Fosse Arthour

Heaps of easy climbing

 tjekel 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Are you planning a 'best-of' roundtrip? If so, Correns / Chateauvert could also yield 2-3 days of enjoyable climbing at these grades. 


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