/ Favourite easy bolted venues in France
By easy I mean 3s, 4s or 5. I'll kick off with this one:
Mount Coudon sector Baudouvin. There are 28 routes, only three 6s. 18 of the 28 are given 3*.
Oh yes, a thread I can appreciate! I had a good time at Mt Coudon, so it would be on my list too.
Here goes, but without your detailed breakdown, just crags where I've had a lovely bumbly kind of day:
Orgon - Mur de Quatre and Breche Sud
Seynes - Rouge Gorge Left hand end
La Turbie - Dalle a l'Oiseau
Dentelles de Montmirail - Rocher du Grande Travers
Crikey....... that place is now defo on the tick list,
Montagne Ste Victoire hands down...
Forgot Aureille in the Alpilles... Although mainly 5's, but at a friendly angle. Collias has lots in the grades as well, albeit some a little polished.
Martinswand near Gerardmer in Alsace Lorraine is a fabulous venue. Lots of 4s and 5s amongst the 6s and 7s.
Clecy in the Suisse Normandie is a fabulous venue as well. Lots of 4s and 5s amongst the 7cs!!
That looks great Alan. I see it's granite. Does it have proper holds or is it just smearing and reverse palming?
Familiar with some of those, not all.
Thanks Thomas - thought I could rely on you to contribute!
My friend Brian Evans has recommended this but I have yet to visit.
Sector Papy is it? Superb wall of 5s.
Planning to drop in here in a couple of weeks from now.
The topo says granite, it is actually Gneiss.
Very good climbing with great mix of routes, sure there are some smearing slabs in the grade 6's, but in the grades 5 and below these have positive holds/edges and there are some really good and positive corners, arêtes etc. I'm hoping to go and do the 6 pitch / 150m route next week, which is apparently all 5a/5b and for all the topo says abseil descent I am well advised (by someone who has done it several times), that it is a) a great route and b) ok to walk down from the top of it.
> Sector Papy is it? Superb wall of 5s.
Yes, that's the best bit, though there are more good 5s scattered about the other sectors too.
La Fosse Arthour
Heaps of easy climbing
Are you planning a 'best-of' roundtrip? If so, Correns / Chateauvert could also yield 2-3 days of enjoyable climbing at these grades.
UKC/Rockfax were recently able to make donations to bolting activities in a couple of the areas covered by Rockfax guides. Money from the sales of the North Wales Slate guide has been channeled towards the North Wales Bolt Fund and we have also donated to two...