/ Favourite easy bolted venues in France

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Rog Wilko 25 Aug 2019

By easy I mean 3s, 4s or 5. I'll kick off with this one:

Mount Coudon sector Baudouvin. There are 28 routes, only three 6s.  18 of the 28 are given 3*.

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full stottie 25 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Oh yes, a thread I can appreciate! I had a good time at Mt Coudon, so it would be on my list too.

Here goes, but without your detailed breakdown, just crags where I've had a lovely bumbly kind of day:

Orgon - Mur de Quatre and Breche Sud

Seynes - Rouge Gorge Left hand end

La Turbie - Dalle a l'Oiseau

Dentelles de Montmirail - Rocher du Grande Travers

Ubrieux

Dave

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Darron 25 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Crikey....... that place is now defo on the tick list,

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tjekel 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Montagne Ste Victoire hands down... 

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tjekel 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Forgot Aureille in the Alpilles... Although mainly 5's, but at a friendly angle. Collias has lots in the grades as well, albeit some a little polished. 

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Wanderer100 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Martinswand near Gerardmer in Alsace Lorraine is a fabulous venue. Lots of 4s and 5s amongst the 6s and 7s.

http://www.escalade-alsace.com/bddpv/bddpv_falaise.php?fid=105

Post edited at 17:39
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Mark Bull 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Auzat and  Calames in the Ariege both have lots of very good 5's (though not so much in the 3's or 4's).

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Wanderer100 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Clecy in the Suisse Normandie is a fabulous venue as well.  Lots of 4s and 5s amongst the 7cs!!

https://climbingaway.fr/fr/site-escalade/clecy-rochers-des-parcs

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Alan Bates 27 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Here's one just over an hour away from me, I visited it last month and have uploaded to UKC. A really good venue, both generally and in terms of your criteria.

Casteil - Les Gorges du Cady  Casteil - Les Gorges du Cady

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Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Alan Bates:

That looks great Alan. I see it's granite. Does it have proper holds or is it just smearing and reverse palming?

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Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to full stottie:

Familiar with some of those, not all. 

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Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to tjekel:

Thanks Thomas - thought I could rely on you to contribute!

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Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Wanderer100:

My friend Brian Evans has recommended this but I have yet to visit. 

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Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Mark Bull:

Sector Papy is it? Superb wall of 5s.

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Rog Wilko 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Wanderer100:

Planning to drop in here in a couple of weeks from now.

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Alan Bates 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

The topo says granite, it is actually Gneiss. 

Very good climbing with great mix of routes, sure there are some smearing slabs in the grade 6's, but in the grades 5 and below these have positive holds/edges and there are some really good and positive corners, arêtes etc. I'm hoping to go and do the 6 pitch / 150m route next week, which is apparently all 5a/5b and for all the topo says abseil descent I am well advised (by someone who has done it several times), that it is a) a great route and b) ok to walk down from the top of it.  

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Mark Bull 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> Sector Papy is it? Superb wall of 5s.

Yes, that's the best bit, though there are more good 5s scattered about the other sectors too. 

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Adam Perrett 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4053

La Fosse Arthour

Heaps of easy climbing

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tjekel 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Are you planning a 'best-of' roundtrip? If so, Correns / Chateauvert could also yield 2-3 days of enjoyable climbing at these grades. 

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